Why is my 1990 Tempo lurching - ie;sudden loss of power

1990 Ford Tempo (4 cylinder) Today’s date Dec.11, 2012
2.3 L - manual transmission
VIN # 1FABP35XILK234531
Odometer � 245 270 km

Vehicle in trouble since Sept. 6, 2012

Thanks for the initial comments.
I can’t take it to a pro as that is not a financial option for me. I would be prepared to pay 20 dollars for some advice that allows me to know what the problem is, so that I can fix it myself.
I can reproduce the “lurching” referred to on September 6 � 2012. It seems to only occur after about 20 minutes of running (either by driving it or letting it idle). The lurching, once it starts is quite persistant and eventually will lead to a stall unless I use the gas pedal to keep the RPM up while stopped. I thought I had the problem solved when I presumed it must be temperature related. This presumption pointed me to the cooling system and I found that; a) system not holding pressure b) rust colored antifreeze observed though Radiator Cap c) thermostat may not have been working.

I have since;
1) replaced a leaking hose (thermostat to heater hose- toward firewall)
2) replaced thermostat and radiator cap
3) Flushed the system quite a few times with water and also with “Prestone super flush”(the rusty liquid had gel-ed in the antifreeze reservoir so I thought it important to repeat the flushing)
4) Engine Coolant Temp. (ECT) sensor changed.
5) Replaced the Air charge temperature (ACT) sensor in the intake manifold.

Basically, I have made sure the system is being cooled properly
[ thermostat opens when warmed, and results in the cooling fan turning on (fan switch works). Also the water pump is working as I feel the pump pressure when I hold the upper radiator hose],

Yet the problem persists.

I have redone the Trouble codes test. Two outcomes result; they now show the following;
1) if I perform the test prior to 20 minutes of idling.

“0” or (Key On Engine Off ) KOEO codes;
11 - system Ok

“C”(continuous memory) codes;
14 - Ignition profile pickup is eratic

“R”(engine running) codes;
11 - system Ok

If I perform the test after 20 minutes of idling,
the Trouble codes show the following;

“0” or (Key On Engine Off ) KOEO codes;
11 - system Ok

“C”(continuous memory) codes;
14 - Ignition profile pickup is eratic

“R”(engine running) codes;
Either the code below would be indicated (if engine didn’t stall)
13 - Ignition profile pickup is eratic
and RPM would fluctuate between 1800 and 500 RPM.

Or

if engine stalled, the following code would be indicated
77 - Goose test not performed

If anyone has experienced these symptoms or knows what this problem probably is, I would appreciate communicating with them.
Any information would be helpful.
The frustrating part is that the car works perfectly for the first fifteen (or so) minutes.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Thanks for replying,
The ignition module was changed 25,000 miles ago - so that is probably not it. Most shops have a minimum shop charge of 1/2 hour (120/hour) so that may not be an option for me.

What is a - relucktor - (is bad or cracked in dist.)?
I could change the distributor if I knew that is the problem - Why would it work for the first 20 minutes? Is there a way of doing a simple test to see if the distributor is the issue?

I checked for loose connections to dist/module and arcing on spark plug wires already. Also the IAC and TPS are not the problem.

I have another tempo; same year to exchange parts to trouble shoot providing it isn't to hard to get at.
Any ideas about the questions above hmac300?

Thanks again,

Chris

Thanks again, hmac300

it is not the coil as I've changed that now with no result.

I can also exchange the ignition module/ or test it myself with a voltmeter, but this seems unlikely as it was changed not too long ago.

Could this possibly be a timing chain/belt issue? Or would that create the problem as soon as I start the car (ie: temperature shouldn't make chain fail)

If this is a possibility, is there a simple test to check the chain?

Chris

Dec. 18-2012

FORD Tempos do not have RELUCTORS, the current is induced by a HALL SENSOR which can not be seen in the distributor from the top.

Presumably if I exchange the Distributor, with the one from the tempo that works this should test both the Ignition module (which is attached to dist. Base) and the HALL SENSOR which affects my spark.

1) Correct?

But you didn’t comment on...
2) If you think this could be a timing chain/belt issue?

Thanks,
these are my last 2) comments without a donation.

Chris... Appreciate the time.