Hot Rotors

Crack the bleeder screws open, then see if you can push the pistons in. If you can, try the same thing by cracking the steel lines at the master cylinder.

I would be pretty suspicious why all that stuff was changed. This has the symptoms of a contaminated system. Run the test that Caradiodoc suggested. I'm suspecting you will find a bad master too and maybe rear problems at a later date.

I was thinkin' fluid contamination too but didn't want to bring that up yet as it can really ruin a guy's day.

Happy Saturday, Wrenchtech

LOL... It is what it is........
Thanks Doc

Check the rod that pushes the master cylinder plunger from the power brake booster, it sounds like it is too far out and not allowing the brake master to fully release. Please let me know,,, Thanks for using 2carpros.com

With a C-Clamp appying pressure on the Left side Caliper piston I cracked the front brake line at the Master Cylinder and only a small amount of fluid came out (minimal pressure). I then cracked the bleeder screw on the Caliper and again only a little fluid came out. I removede the Caliper and a the Piston boot has a visable hole about 1mm diameter. I looked under the boot and there is evidence of corrosion. I replaced both Calipers ($13 each at Murray's Auto). The pedal isn't as firm as I would like it, but bleeding brakes by yourself isn't the easiest. I'll let you now if this solves the problem. FYI- the front brakes definately lock up much faster than the rear. Thanks for the help.

So much for the new calipers you said you had...........