Basically The car starts fine then the check engine comes on and it sputters at idle, put it in drive it may sputter off or die. I've ran error codes and it comes up with
21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 41, 26, 46, 56
I'm at a loss and not sure were to start.
please help
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Saturday, November 5th, 2011 AT 11:42 PM
10 Replies
ASEMASTER6371
MECHANIC
52,797 POSTS
First hing I would do is disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes and re connect and take it for a ride. Check the codes again and see if anything comes back. The first code back is the one I would look at.
Roy
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Sunday, November 6th, 2011 AT 12:45 AM
MGREEN1975
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The first time I ran codes there were 17, these are the codes after disconnected the battery for about a minute. After that I started the car. Idle was horrible tried to rev the motor and it died. And that's were I sit at tue moment. Thank you for the quick response I will have donations on pay day
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Sunday, November 6th, 2011 AT 1:19 AM
ASEMASTER6371
MECHANIC
52,797 POSTS
I suspect a failed ecm. It was a common failure in those days.
Roy
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Monday, November 7th, 2011 AT 1:55 AM
BUICKBOY91
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I myself have had a similar problem. I have a '91 LeSabre C. And it was acting about the same. You should start with the coil Pack, once the car is running remove each of the spark plug wire boots off of the coil pack one by one and hold them close to see if there is electrical current going if not then the coil pack is bad. BUT BECAREFULL b/c you might get a little shocked happened to me it doesnt hurt really just dont keep your fingers too close to the ends. Then Most likely your ECM has failed b/c of the coil pack. So replace both. And new spark plugs would help also check in what shape the plugs and wires are in.
I hope this helps, and Price wise this isnt too expensive.
Coil pack goes for about 40 at autozone and an ECM you can get anywhere from 90-150 bucks. Or you can find a used one thats Tested and works. Good Luck
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+1
Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 4:54 PM
WRENCHTECH
MECHANIC
20,758 POSTS
I agree with the first expert's conclusion. I don't think you should be throwing any coils at it though unless you have something specific pointing to that.
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 5:13 PM
BUICKBOY91
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Well I recommend coils, b/c that seems like the more realistic issue, and its cheaper then the ECM. Because if you start with the ECM your going to have to change the coils anyways so might aswell try the cheaper repair and maybe get lucky and not have to go to the ECM.
But then again it could be just a free check with a pressure tester tool form Autozone. That way he can see if its the pressure.
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 7:30 PM
MGREEN1975
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I put in a new ecm ended up with the same codes, im starting to lean towards the tps sensor or the fuel pump. More input would be appreciated.
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 10:26 PM
WRENCHTECH
MECHANIC
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Not one symptom that this customer listed point to any coil issue so there is no reason to change any coils.
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 10:29 PM
WRENCHTECH
MECHANIC
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Before ever changing a computer you should always verify all the power and ground inputs to it. The computer is only as good as what is fed to it.
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Friday, November 11th, 2011 AT 10:39 PM
MGREEN1975
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Sorry it's been a week. I replaced the ecm with a used one, ran much better but once again when it warmed up had the same issues, also getting the same codes. I replaced the tps, no change. I replaced the iac, no change. Spark plugs are new. I'm suspecting maybe fuel pressure regulator, concidering that if you put your foot on the gas while starting it will start right up, but once I let off it will die. Driving me crazy. I also was thinking about the egr valve, HELP