Fouling out plugs

First step would be to check the computer for stored codes and see what they point you to. That will give you a starting point and direction.

This is a Carburetor? Or throttle body?

You can get it "Coded" at Many Popular Auto Parts Stores. For Free!

Bring 'em back here, and we will assist in whatever you need to check out.

Your vehicle is not a Spring Chicken, Imma CJ Kinda Feller, I know 1st hand, what people do to them over the years.

So, when you return, please let us know about any modifications that might have been done. History, last tune-up--what was done, etc.

The overall condition of your vehicles engine, such as Vacuum lines that have been misrouted--capped off--broken--missing stuff.

You can post pics, if you like, they do help us sometimes.

I'm more in tune with the CJs w/ carbs. Back when things were simple!

Wrenchtech is trained up with the Newer, High Tech computer stuff.(Probably old stuff too)

Respond at "Reply To Question" Below

The Medic

Your standard code reader is not going to help on this vehicle. This is OBD1 and will require the use of a professional. If you truly have no codes stored, that would prove one of 2 things. Either you vehicle is not running rich or there is a root problem with the computer itself because it's engineered to recognize that stuff.

Roger!

Vacuum lines, need to S. Uck air where they should, not s. Uck open air!

Usually a vacuum leak makes you run "Lean", not "Rich". But if something else has been tweaked or adjusted to "counter" a problem, that may make the Rich issue show up. Your System was the "beginnings" of computer cars.

What wrenchtech wants to determine, is are you running "Open Loop" or "Closed Loop" (we can explain that too!). This may require more testing on your end, some diagnostic tools, can you or do you have friends who can assist?

Do you have a repair manual? (With vacuum diagrams)

I do not think that source is available to me here, I do not think it will go that far back.

Click on me, send your Email in "Messages". Not here, for the world to see. Maybe can get you something, that I cannot post here.

Are you in California or other 49 states? (Diagram info)

Once you get the Vacuum straight, and like it should be connected, RETURN HERE, and we will continue.

The Medic

Roger, pin down about where in AR?

Sent you a message

Go to top of this page, click on "You" at "Welcome tbfreeman", Look left, then check your messages.

The Medic

Should be there, just sent again!

The Medic

OK, tbfreeman, Now that you are confirmed, to still be with us!

How 'bout posting/ pasting what you just sent me at my E-mail, as far as what you have done thus far.

Glad to hear the vacuum lines are pretty much right.

Have you got him coded, the old OBD1 way (again?)

Your injectors are above the throttle plate, so yes it should get "wet". Too much maybe but do not know

The fuel regulator you mentioned, may or may not be bad, you need to check fuel pressure to see if it's working within specs. Before you needlessly spend $$$ on a new one.

My Dad's '86 T-Bird had similar problems, rather his would just die at idle. His showed different codes at random, sometimes none at all.

After several months and throwing parts at it, new and used, we discovered the Injectors were bad. We figured this out, by swapping salvage yard injectors in to his. When certain that was the fix, I bought new ones.

I brought you back here, cause there are a lot of other reading this, whom I'm sure know this stuff better.

The Medic

DO YOU KNOW HOW TO USE A VOLTMETER? MAINLY THE "MILLIVOLT" PART

HOW MANY O2s YOU GOT? WITHOUT RESEARCHING, I THINK "ONE", AND IT'S PROBABLY IN THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. IS THIS CORRECT. FILL ME IN!

THE MEDIC

I wanna see if the O2 is reading anything (working), We can do this with a "DIGITAL" voltmeter. (Not an "Analog" meter, one with a needle)

Some of them things get to be expensive, like $80+, some are as cheap as $20. That's why we should see if it works before, you buy another one. This will also eliminate a factor too!

You can get one at "Harbor Freight" for about $5 or an Auto Parts Store for $15 or less.

You will also need some TWO Long "Jumper Wires", alligator clips on both ends. Maybe 6 feet long each. I will show you pics

I can talk you thru the procedure. NOT HARD!

I have already made a few explanations (pics) on Using a Digital Voltmeter to check "Continuity" in wires (no breaks in the wire, etc.) This is another use for a voltmeter, not what you need to test now!

I can do the same for what you need to test.A "Millivolt" Reading on your O2 sensor, after it's heated up and running.

We will do our best on this end, you gotta do your end!

Also want to know how many wires are on your O2 sensor. One? Or More?

The Medic

Allrighty then!

I'm in a Chilton Jeep '71-'90 Manual

I'm sorta in the Generic Throttle Body Injection Fuel System Part.

No idea whether this is 4-6-8 cylinder. But we will go with it, as I do not see another explanation!

It says. Fuel Pressure should be 14.5 PSI at 2000 RPMs

This might be an issue. Listen close

The Fuel Pressure is "ADJUSTABLE"!

At the bottom of the Fuel Pressure Regulator is a TORX HEAD SCREW

Turning this screw "IN" (imagine that is Clockwise) INCREASES PRESSURE

Turning it "OUT" ( reckon that's Counter-Clockwise) DECREASES PRESSURE

This is performed at 2000 RPM

Whachu Think?

The Medic