1985 Jeep scrambler won't fire

This had me chasing my tail for 2 days!

Take your module (old and new) to Autozone or Advance Auto. They will test it for FREE!

Test it 5-8 times to warm it up. If it fails the later testing replace it. Then test the new one before you leave! (As I did not!)

I'm here for you buddy, I will continue to assist you, for as long as it takes!

I answer the CJ 5 & 7 Forums frequently---you will see the extent I will go to assist!

Try that 1st---and come back with more info if you have it---We will take it from there!

Want this info: What type coil did you get--Part # Store?

The Medic

Also include how you went about replacing the distributor. I take it that you have no spark at all.I know that sick helpless feeling.

If you did have spark, a shot of starter fluid in the carb does what?

Does it just Roll over and over. Or does it spit and sputter at some pointExplain

I CAN GET YOU GOING!

The Medic

I wanted to BE ABSOLUTELY SURE---YOU HAVE THE COIL--"For Use With External Resistor"

PLEASE EXPLAIN WHAT---"THE TIMING CHECKS OUT GOOD" MEANS EXACTLY?

THIS MAY BE THE ISSUE, AND I CAN HELP YOU THRU IT, IF YOU WILL BE MY EYES AND HANDS.I CRAVE INFO!

THE MEDIC

TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE?

OR ITS JUST AT THE TOP. WITH NO IDEA ON WHY?

HOW DID YOU FIND THE COMPRESSION STROKE. OR DID YOU?

THIS IS A 4 CYCLE ENGINE, THE PISTON MOVES UP AND DOWN TWICE FOR EACH "CYCLE"

DO YOU WANT ME TO TAKE YOU THRU THOSE MOTIONS. GETTING ON COMPRESSION STROKE. THEN SETTING THE HARMONIC BALANCER TO "ACTUAL TDC" ON THE SCALE THEN. INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR?

I DO NOT MIND HELPING AT ALL--THIS IS FUN FOR ME!

THE MEDIC

2ND TIME TO SEND THIS

DID YOU HAVE YOUR FINGER OR THUMB IN #1 PLUG HOLE WHEN IT "SPIT" (CONFIRMING COMPRESSION BUILDING) THEN ASAP! LET GO OF THE KEY WHEN "SPIT" 1ST HEARD---THEN ROTATE THE ENGINE WITH A SOCKET OR WRENCH--CLOCKWISE (STANDING IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE) TILL YOUR MARK LINES UP ON ZERO (THIS WOULD BE "REAL TDC") AS IN MY PIC.

ALSO DID YOU ROTATE YOUR OIL PUMP UNTIL THE DISTRIBUTOR SAT "ALL THE WAY DOWN" AND YOUR ROTOR BUTTON WAS POINTING AT #1 "TOWER"

IT REALLY DOESN'T MATTER WHICH "TOWER" IT POINTS TO, AS LONG AS YOU PLACE YOUR WIRES IN FIRING ORDER--CLOCKWISE. LOOKING DOWN ON THE DISTRIBUTOR

PIZZING YOU OFF?----OR GOING OVER THIS, INSURING EVERYTHING IS RIGHT AIDING YOU AT ALL?

YOUR TURN.I'VE GOT MORE POSSIBILITIES. JUST DON'T WANT TO WRITE A WHOLE BOOK, IF CHAPTER 1 FIXES YOU!

OK LET'S TRY1950'S (AND BEFORE), GRAND THEFT AUTO!

WERE GONNA BY PASS EVERYTHING, AND GIVE THE COIL, FULL BATTERY JUICE. JUST FOR A TEST!

LET'S JUMPER POS BATTERY TO POS COIL. THEN ATTEMPT A START. IF IT STARTS WE SORTA HAVE A DIRECTION TO FOLLOW.

KILL IT, BY REMOVING THE JUMPER!

THIS IS HOW I DO ITTHE FUSE IS JUST EXTRA PROTECTION (YOU DO NOT "HAVE TO" HAVE IT). INSURE GOOD CONTACT IN COIL'S POS CONNECTOR. YOU MIGHT ALSO MAKE SURE THE "COPPER CONTACTS" AND WIRES DID NOT GET "PUSHED BACK" IN THE CONNECTOR, WHEN YOU HAD IT OFF BEFORE!

YOUR TURN (CAN YOU SEND PICS OF DISTRIBUTOR, TOP ON AND OFF?)

THE MEDIC

I WON'T ABANDON YOU.I'M IN SC, YOU'RE WORKING IN YOUR GARAGE I HOPE!

SEE YOU TOMORROW!

YOU INITIATE

THE MEDIC

I AM ABOUT TO GO TAKE SOME PICS OF MINE FOR YOU---IN THE MEAN TIME READ THRU THE INFO AT THIS OTHER POST I ANSWERED.

REALLY CHECK OUT THE SOLENOID STUFF----MAKE YOURS THAT WAY!

YOU MAY HAVE TO "COPY AND PASTE THIS ONTO A NEW TAB....LINKING IS NOT WORKING FOR ME AT THIS SITE NOW, IT'S STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION....IT'S WORKED IN THE PAST, BUT NOT NOW

HERE'S THE LINK

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1986-jeep-cj7-help-needed

YOU REALLY NEED TO HIT A SALVAGE YARD......GO THRU THE 80'S FORDS AND GET YOU A GOOD COIL CONNECTOR!

I WILL HAVE YOU SOME MORE TESTS REAL SOON

DO YOU HAVE A DIGITAL VOLTMETER ($10-$12 AT PARTS STORE, YOU NEED ONE)

DO YOU HAVE A REPAIR MANUAL?

THE MEDIC

Let me jump in here a second.
If you are receiving no power reading on the neg side if the coil, it means it is constantly grounded. You need to try cranking the engine for that test and it should pulse ground. Do not use an incandescent test light for this as it can fry you module. Make sure it uses a diode for a bulb to be computer safe. If you find that you have no pulse there, then there is an issue with the module, pick up coil or related wiring. Make sure the distributor is actually turning also.

ALLRIGHTY THEN,

I SAW YOU WERE USING A TEST LIGHT--SO I PERFORMED THE SAME TESTS WITH MY VOLTMETER. TO SHOW YOU WHY YOU NEED A VOLTMETER!

HAD 2 BUDDIES COME OVER AND SORTA HELD ME UP

THIS IS GONNA BE SOMETHING OVERLOOKED OR DONE WRONG

HAVE YOU LOOKED AT YOUR SOLENOID SET-UP AND FIXED LIKE MINE?

I REALLY HOPE YOUR DISTRIBUTOR IS NOT 180 DEGREES OUT, CAUSE WE WOULD BE CHASING OUR TAIL NOW!

EVEN NEW STUFF CAN BE BAD

WE WILL TEST THE COIL AND DISTRIBUTOR NEXT

HERE'S WHAT I JUST MADE

WAITIN' ON YOU!

THE MEDIC

A voltmeter isn't going to help you when looking for pulse. There is too much delay in the response to read pulse. You need to only use a diode style light.

ROGER. HE LACKS EQUIPTMENT

SHOWING HIM THERE IS VOLTAGE, HE COULD NOT SEE!

ALSO SHOWING THE REDUCED VOLTS VIA THE "RESISTANCE WIRE". THIS SYSTEM ONLY GETS FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE AT "START-UP" PROVIDED BY "I" TERMINAL ON SOLENOID.

HE HAS NEW DISTRIBUTOR-COIL-AND MODULE (IF IT'S STILL GOOD)

THE ROTOR BUTTON TURNING, WHILE CRANKING, WAS A NICE TOUCH, I OVERLOOKED THAT ONE!

MY NEIGHBOR HAD AN ISSUE WITH HIS DISTRIBUTOR/ AND OTHER WIRES FLOPPIN'. SHAKIN' WHILE CRANKIN' FOUND A SHORT TO THE DISTRIBUTOR ON HIS "7"

JUST THOUGHT I COULD RUN DOWN THE EZ LIST, 1ST, SINCE WE GOT SO MUCH NEW STUFF ON HERE!

Hlwilson. WHACCU THINK? MAYBE HAVE A BUDDY RECHECK COMPRESSION STROKE WITH THUMB, AND THEN, BY HAND (CW, FROM FRONT)), LINING TIMING MARKS UP. MAYBE YOU PASSED YOUR MARKS ACCIDENTALLY OR YOU ARE SO IN TUNE WITH IT, YOUR BUDDY MIGHT AID IN FINDING AN ISSUE.

WAS YOUR OLD MODULE BAD. YOU JUST GOT A NEW FOR THE HECK OF IT. CAN YOU GET A DIFFERENT PERSON TO TEST. OR A DIFFERENT STORE. TEST BOTH!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

The position of the distributor has no bearing on whether the coil is receiving a pulse signal or not. He is is trying to read the (-) side of the coil so the voltmeter is worthless to do that.