Fuel/Temperature gauges

I really do not think that is "resistive" are we speaking of the jumper between the gauges?

What is your final goal or intension's here (with the gauges)?

The pic below is my original '77 cluster (rear view) registers 90 mph. The one I have now is a newer version--wrong pic in the middle, that's "willy"3rd pic is my 2nd newer type cluster (about $125 when I got it) it registers 85 mph.

The Medic

Kd7buj, you been on here before?

I've had many problems with mine too

Eventually it led me to install a 2nd, mechanical TEMP Gauge. The sender is Mid-Engine-Block, and the Gauge usually reads about 20 degrees cooler than the Actual 195 in the top of the head. But I can tell when its getting TOO HOT, It will start climbing above 175, On the secondary gauge

It really puzzles me about the original in the speedometer.I can go out to the sender and ground the wire, the Temp Gauge "Tops Out".I've tried 8 senders, some were from other MFGs, I get nothing!

The Fuel Gauge works fine!

I have the 1979 AMC Service Manual, which shows testing and the values you should have between "S"--"I"--"A"--"GROUND". Along with resistance readings when gauges are at Beginning-mid-end of their band

All of my testing shows that MY SYSTEM IS FINE.I thought maybe I was tightening the TEMP SENDER too tight. The Boiling water test shows the sender good. So I'm at Wits End with my Speedometer TEMP GAUGE!

As far as what you need to know, I too have been looking for a solution (not real hard!)

Seems the Gauges run on REDUCED VOLTAGE. That is, on a CJ, the Fuel gauge has a CONSTANT VOLTAGE REGULATOR ("CVR")built in to it. My INTERPRETATION is BOTH the TEMP and FUEL Gauges use it (thus the jumper, over to the Temp Gauge). Thats why I was asking what your intentions were.

The CVR somewhat works like a FORD ALTERNATOR Voltage Regulator---(Its NOT a TRANSFORMER) thats why the needles Pulsate on the gauges

I have also KINDA-SORTA been looking at the possibility using some sorta Transformer

The AMC Manual says the CVR puts out about 5 Volts

So I kinda figgered that if you got rid of the Jumper and the 12 Volt feed into the Fuel Gauge (Feed into "I")Maybe if a 5 VOLT Transformer could feed "A" on both Gauges and "S" go out to each ones "Sender" (as normal)

Is this Deeper than what you thought was going on, or did you already know some of this stuff?

The Medic

If I get a chance tomorrow, I will attempt to get a KEY ON, Voltage Reading on the JUMPER (both ends). If its still alive!

My manual does say "ABOUT 5 VOLTS"

I cannot see the FUEL GAUGE working, unless it were.

The Jumper is just that.A Jumper

The CVR is in the FUEL GAUGE on a CJBut in the other '79 Models, according to the AMC manual is in the TEMP GAUGE

May be possible to have separate Gauges (No Jumper) If you use the TEMP gauge out of lets say.A 1979 CHEROKEE

I need to investigate the Looks of that one in the Manual, to see if its comparable

But still I like the Idea of a 12VDC to 5VDC Transformer---the needles would hold steady (and maybe move quicker and truer, because it would not be a HIGH LIMIT-Off----LOW LIMIT-On Regulator, as it is now.

Any Ideas for a DECENT RELIABLE Transformer?

The Medic

Well, I'm glad ya'll have come up with something a lot better than I could have!

I did find that the CVR is in the fuel gauge on a CJ.

My Fuel gauge works just fine.

My temp gauge pegs out, if I ground the sender wire. It has worked a few times using different sending units, I bet I have bought 20 trying to get it to work consistantly

I have a Mechanical installed Mid-block, where a thermal vacuum switch once was. I have just sorta gotten used to it running Normal at about 9 O'clock (160 Degrees) using a 195 Degree stat. Just using it as a guide, since mid-block temp is about 35 degrees cooler than the top of the head. I really stay on top of mine, and I have not had a overheat yet. (knock on wood!)

I really want my stuff to work correctly too! These links will help me greatly, especially the testing of the sending unit, with real resistance values to go by.

I have had a major Transmission (total rebuild, I put everything new in it!) then not many miles later my transfer case locked up and busted the case, near rollover at 55 MPH (still investigating cause of no oil getting into tail-housing).........Got another and sorta went thru it a little, it seemed to be in really good shape, .........I'm on the road again with less than 200 miles, VERY GUN-SHY!

The cool thing about testing my Speedo-gauges is, I made a Boo-Boo installing my extra 2 gauges on the dash, I hole-sawed out above the Oil and Voltmeter......I found I was all into the Defrost Ducting. So I sawed out the dash, placed all of the gauges on a Removable Plate, which let me place the 2 extra gauges in the radio space, and then I moved the radio below the speedo, in a Homemade Slide housing to accommodate the Newer Style Slide in radiosAll I have to do now is FLOP my plate forward (4 stainle********) An I can EZ access the speedometers back and all bulbs, without removing it or the gauges...........(See Pic at the top of this post)

Thank you for the links you found kd7buj, I did have to copy and paste them on a new tab (now in favorites)----This site has been revamped recently and some things are not completed yet, "Linking" started failing about a week ago, but should be capable real soon as they fix the glitches.....It's been a difficult transition for me, I'm already Cyber-Stupid, and was just getting the hang of the "OLD SITE" when they changed, I cannot find a lot of posts that I have been dealing with much at all.

Any more info, I would appreciate it if you would throw it on here!

I've got the longest running 2 car feller post ever! (so they say), still running, I will attempt a link to it, and see if it works for me.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1980-jeep-cj7-timingtuning-problem-with-a

Keep info coming!

The Medic

I just got done with this modification.

Maybe you are still interested?

Pics below

The Medic

This works so well!

Wish I had figured this out years ago, at least 4 locals have done this.

As a note--if you have the cluster removed, do not power it up!

Without a good/permanent ground to it you will fry the internals.

My fuel and temperature gauges are working perfectly.

Any other issues, just ask, things are slower for me with the cyber vehicles taking over.

The Medic

I saw the regulator (or similar) after making mine.

Either way you go, I think it will be a success!

Return with good news after you get it all back together!

The Medic

Over the years, I have swapped temperature senders, same and different brands searching for one that had "higher" results.

Never a change!

I am running a 195 degree thermostat and it seems "cold" on the gauge.

I have come to accept that "195" on the "H--C" gauge is when the needle reaches the "Green Line" on the gauge----anything reading more is actually hotter than 195. (Mine consistently stays on the green line--which seems cooler than you think it should be--but it's not)

----The Medic

I hope it all works out for you. Return if we can help you with this or anything else!

The Medic