1984 Jeep CJ7 CJ Stalling when idling

SOUNDS LIKE YOU NEED SOME TUNING

6 WEEKS, HUH?

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO GET YOUR PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE UP TO DATE AND ALL CAUGHT UP?

WHAT PART OF THE COUNTRY ARE YOU IN?

DO YOU HAVE A TACH/ DWELL METER?

A PLAIN JANE TIMING LIGHT (NO NEED TO HAVE AN ADJUSTABLE ONE)

SET OF SAE WRENCHES? SCREWDRIVERS?

BONUS- A VACUUM GAUGE?

YOU DID WIPE OUT THE INSIDE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP?

HOW FAR YOU GONNA GO WITH GETTING HIM RIGHT?

BUDGET?

WHAT IS NOT ORIGINAL ON THIS? CARB? IGNITION? ETC?

I CAN TALK YOU THRU NEARLY ALL OF THIS ALONG WITH PICS

I CATCH UP WITH IT ALL/ INCLUDING FLUID CHANGES-I TRUST NO ONE ELSES CLAIMS OF "TAKING CARE" OF THEIR STUFF-WIFE AND OTHERS SAY I'M A-NAL!

I'VE OWNED NOTHING BUT CJs SINCE I WAS ALLOWED ON THE ASPHALT IN 1981-I KNOW HOW TO DESTROY 'EM AS WELL AS (NOW A DAYS) KEEP 'EM GOING WELL. I'VE OBTAINED AND REBUILT THESE 2 IN MY PICS BACK IN 1991, BOTH ARE DAILY DRIVERS

THE MEDIC

CJ

Medic,
thanks for your reply. I have read through several of your other posts this afternoon, and I appreciate your willingness to help..
I have also followed some of your basic advice from other posts (tighten the bolts screws on the carb) I thought I had it starting to get better, and found that the op gasket was very warn. Then I did something, don't really know what, but now the valve on the top of the carb is stuck in full open, and I can only close it manually. It will however begin to open on its own, as the throttle is engaged. 1 step forward 2 steps back for me on this lately. I have added some pics as well to help you see what I have.

I will go through your questions below as I believe that is the easiest way not to leave anything out.


6 WEEKS, HUH? Yes I had my mechanic look at it and everything was mechanically sound. The 2 problems we knew of were an very small oil drip from the dipstick case, and a small coolant leak from behind the pump near the front of the block, that remains unidentified. I was power washing the engine to clean off the grime to help track down where the coolant leak was coming from, and then I made this mess.

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO GET YOUR PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE UP TO DATE AND ALL CAUGHT UP?.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, and the oil was changed 3 weeks before I got it (I had the receipt). Not sure when other fluids were last changed, but all inspected by my mechanic, and I was told all was good.
WHAT PART OF THE COUNTRY ARE YOU IN?
I live in the very dry and dusty West Texas

DO YOU HAVE A TACH/ DWELL METER?
No, but I will get them tomorrow if necessary
A PLAIN JANE TIMING LIGHT (NO NEED TO HAVE AN ADJUSTABLE ONE) Yes.

SET OF SAE WRENCHES? SCREWDRIVERS? Yes.

BONUS- A VACUUM GAUGE? No, but again if I need one I will get one.

YOU DID WIPE OUT THE INSIDE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP?
Yes I believe I cleaned it quite well, and inspected for cracks. Worked on it this weekend, and my father in law and I both believe it to be working well.

HOW FAR YOU GONNA GO WITH GETTING HIM RIGHT?
I want the Jeep to run right, and I plan to keep it for some time. I bought it for a 2 reasons. 1) to enjoy with my kiddos on the weekends, run to the pool, or store or pick up my son from school without the top and doors.
2) to develop some mechanical aptitude, and learn how to do more that an oil change (Some jest there, but not as much as I would like).

BUDGET? I will spend what I need to, but I don't want to go crazy on something that is simply for sunny days when I am not working. I already have plans and the $ set aside for to slandbast it and have it painted this winter. I was about to order fuel/ temp and tach gages as mine don't work. Then I caused this problem. I know that is not an answer, but I hope it helps get to my line of thinking.

WHAT IS NOT ORIGINAL ON THIS? CARB? IGNITION? ETC?
I believe most of the Jeep is stock. I have an MSD Distributor, and Electronic ignition. Couldn't tell you how old they are, but they look relatively new. Also the fuel filter and pump look to have been replaced. As I mentioned the plugs and wires are also less than a week old. My father in law believes that the motor has been replaced because the AC unit is not hooked up, and the pulleys do not align with any of the other belt routing. If it has been replaced, it was with another 258 I6. The gaskets and seals have been replaced in some spots, as you can see gel coming out in some spots. There is wires all over this thing, and many have been cut and left to dangle, but the wiring that is intact seems to be relatively new as well.

I CAN TALK YOU THRU NEARLY ALL OF THIS ALONG WITH PICS
Thanks so much. For a newbie like me I need all the help and basic instructions and pictures I can get.

I CATCH UP WITH IT ALL/ INCLUDING FLUID CHANGES-I TRUST NO ONE ELSES CLAIMS OF "TAKING CARE" OF THEIR STUFF-WIFE AND OTHERS SAY I'M A-NAL!
I have been called that as well, and I think its a badge of honor.

Thanks Again, GR

YOUR PICS MAY BE "TOO BIG"

SINCE I'VE BEEN HERE THE SITE HAS CHANGED SEVERAL TIMES

I CAN NO LONGER USE MY REBEL T-3 WITHOUT RESIZING THE PICS

I CONTINUE TO USE MY KODAK EZ SHARE TO MAKE DECENT PICS THAT I DON'T HAVE TO MESS WITH

I'M STILL ONE W/ A DINOSAUR FLIP PHONE-I DO NOT PARTICIPATE IN "DRAMA BOOK" NOR DO I "TELETYPE" ON IT, AS IT IS EZier AND FASTER TO USE MY MOUTH AND EARS TO COMMUNICATE,THIS ALSO LETS ME HEAR INFLECTIONS IN A VOICE, THUS THE "COMMO MOOD" IS SET (LIKE KNOWING IF THE WIFE IS MAD AT ME!)

I HOPE YOU DO NOT MIND LINKING-I DO IT A LOT TO SAVE ME SOME TIME, IT GETS YOU INFO FASTER

ARE YOUR EMISSIONS TESTED IN YOUR AREA?

YOU SAY VACUUM LINES MAY HAVE BEEN CHANGED? IF THEY DON'T CHECK YOU, WE MAY BE ABLE TO ELIMINATE MANY, AND KEEP A FEW. IT ONLY TAKES A FEW TO MAKE IT RUN WELL

DWELL/ TACH MAY BE A DINOSAUR "CHEAP" PAWN SHOP ITEM!

THE VACUUM GAUGE CAN WAIT

1ST LINK-IT DOES NOT HAVE TO BE ICE OUTSIDE TO SET THE CHOKE. SEE "MY ANSWER" CONCERNING THE CHOKE ADJUSTMENT ON "APRIL 13, 2013"

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1981-jeep-cj7-problem-cj-7-sat-years-started-died-after-about-mile/page/2

REMEMBER, THE THROTTLE LEVER NEEDS TO BE OPEN TO UNLOCK THE CHOKE STUFF

LAY YOUR HOOD BACK ON THE WINDSHIELD FRAME/ REMOVE THE AIR CLEANER- SEND ME GOOD PICS OF DRIVER, PASSENGER, OVERHEAD OF THE ENGINE, ESPECIALLY THE VACUUM LINES (FAR ENOUGH OUT TO IDENTIFY THEM)

SEND ONE OF YOU POINTING AT YOUR SUSPECTED COOLANT LEAK TOO

YOUR TURN,

THE MEDIC

Thanks for the info on the Pics.
I don’t mind a matter of fact I have been following on of your older posts on rearranging the vac lines. https://www.2carpros.com/forum/1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot-vt452051.html
I do not live in an area with emissions testing. Also I think I am exempt in Texas because the CJ is over 30 years old, but I could have dreamed that. Either way I am good.
I actually went to by replacement hoses today but they were out of 1/4" fuel line, and I didn’t have time for the kid to go to the back and look around for it. I will try to start that project on Friday, unless you tell me otherwise.

In fact since my pictures didn’t work I am going to try something new for me. A link for you to my pictures. Hopefully this works. I am not that tech savvy either, so we will see. http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/grasor1/embed/slideshow/
I took these in the dark tonight, so they didn’t turn out as well as I hoed. I can add more during the daylight if these don’t show you what you are looking for.

As far as the routing of the vac lines I will try to explain the best I can.
Distributor to front port on carb.
drivers side of carb to Vac canister
Back of Carb (bellow stepper motor) to "golden looking thing that moves the choke arms"
Manifold valve is looped together.
Bell thing below the carb (ERG I think) capped
PCV to passenger side of carb
2 units with 2 vac ports each on top of firewall Nothing attached
Coffee can on passenger side near firewall Nothing attached.
Probably missed one or 2, but hopefully not.

I will start looking for the Dwell/Tac right away, will let you know once I get one.

Not sure if I did a good enough job getting a pic of the coolant leak, but in short it is a very small pool of coolant on the driver’s side of the block, near the first cylinder. I don’t have any dripping on the ground, and when it was driving ok, I never saw the leak, only when it is sitting and idling. First noticed it when the mechanic checked it out. He thought it could be a head or valve cover gasket that was old. I have since noticed it 2 other times when I was working under the hood, and had the engine running. My buddy said freeze plugs, I thought water pump. Who knows. I don’t seem to be losing fluid out of my overflow tank, so hopefully it’s not a major issue, but I wanted to repair it before it became one.

Thanks, GR

SORRY! I ALWAYS TRY TO HELP HERE, EVER SINCE I'VE BEEN HERE

I TRY TO MAKE IT INTERESTING AND EVEN FUNNY- HIGHER UP HAS TAKEN MY ORIGINAL MEMBERSHIP AWAY FROM ME, LET ME HAVE A NEW ONE, HOWEVER I DON'T SEEM TO HAVE ACCESS TO AN AVATAR AND OTHER STUFF AS BEFORE....SOMEHOW I HAVE PIZZED 'EM OFF

I REALLY HATE THE "SILHOUETTE" NOGGIN' THAT SHOWS UP NOW

IS MY PAST/ PRESENT CRAP AIDING YOU?

BACK OFF SOME WITH THE LEAK PICS--TOO CLOSE!

MAY BE THAT THE THERMOSTAT SLIPPED SLIGHTLY OUT OF THE BOTTOM OF THE HOUSING DURING INSTALL! HARD TO TELL- USE MAMA'S COMPACT (MIRROR) TO LOOK UNDER THERE!

GONNA INSTALL A NEW ONE? SEE THIS LINK 1ST

SEE ME IN THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1961-chevrolet-truck-overheating

I HAVE YOU A FEW PICS, CAN YOU READ 'EM?

I'LL BE MAKING MORE SOON..ONE ON VACUUM!

DO YOU HAVE POWER BRAKES?

THE MEDIC

Thanks Medic,
I’m not sure what the apology was for, but whatever it was, you are ok in my book. You have taken your time to help me solve this issue including labeling my pics so I can easily understand what you are telling me. I appreciate all your posts, and I do find you informational and appreciate your willingness to help complete strangers fix their CJ’s. Looks like you have been doing this for quite some time, and it’s too bad you had to get a second account name, and no more avatar.
I am planning on getting to work on replacing hoses tomorrow, and I will pick up a filter for the carb bowl vent as well.
I will also try to get you some better pics of the leak, in the morning, when I have better lighting.
Pics are great and I can read them great. One question I have is the PCV on the rear of the block that you told me to gut, I thought that was some time of aftermarket air intake device. Is this not the case? It is freestanding, and not attached to any hoses at all. Should I just scrap it and plug the port? Would their be a reason the PO would have added this? I will add pics of this as well.

I do have power breaks.

Talk to you soon.

GR

Medic,
Here are some better pics per my post lastnight.
http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/grasor1/embed/slideshow/jeep

Working on the vac lines now. Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks,
GR

YOU GOTTA KEEP THE PWR BRAKES VACUUM LINE-IT SHOULD BE ON A "BIG" VACUUM PORT

THE ONLY OTHERS YOU HAVE TO HAVE ARE THE

DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM ADVANCE (MINE WORKS BEST ON MANIFOLD VACUUM-ON OTHERS,FOLKS-ES, PORTED VACUUM MAY WORK BEST)

THE PCV VAC LINE TO A "BIG" MANIFOLD VACUUM PORT

IF YOUR A/C WORKS, IT MAY NEED VACUUM TOO

I HAVE AN "ON DASH VACUUM GAUGE" IT REQUIRES MANIFOLD VACUUM


EVERYBODY ELSE IS USELESS!

THIS INCLUDES ALL OF THAT TANGLED MESS=EVEN THE EGR IS NOT NEEDED (WHEN YOU INSTALL HEADERS, THE EGR IS ABANDONED! SO IT IS UNNECESSARY!)

CAP OFF ALL UNUSED VACUUM PORTS. I LIKE THE VINYL CAPS, THEY DO NOT ROT AWAY LIKE THE RUBBER ONES

WHEN ALL OF THIS CRAP WAS NEWER, AND WORKED IT DID MOVE THE STEPPER ON THE CARB, AND SUPPOSEDLY WAS WONDERFUL

NOW IT AIN'T WORKING AND THE CARB IS LIKE ANY OTHER BBD-YOUR CARB IS EXPENSIVE TO REBUILD-AND DON'T WORK AS INTENDED

I CAN LINK YOU TO YET ANOTHER POST WHERE WE MAKE YOUR ENGINE AND CARB BASICALLY BACK INTO A 1979! EZ AND CHEAP! IF YOU DECIDE TO DO A NEW PLAIN JANE BBD NO BELLS AND WHISTLES-I PROMISE-IT WILL FIT!

SEE APRIL 25, 2014 AND THE EBAY LINK IN IT

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1986-jeep-cj7-cannot-start

BACK TO THE PCV

MR. PCV SUCKS OUT ALL OF THE HARMFUL GASES AND WATER IN THE ENGINE'S AIR SPACES

IT SUCKS 'EM INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD TO BE BURNED

AS IT SUCKS OUT THE AIR, IT MUST BE REPLENISHED WITH FRESH AIR (VALVE COVER REAR HOLE)

THE AIR MUST BE FREE FLOWING INTO THE VALVE COVER (WHETHER IT'S YOUR FILTER OR MY AIR CLEANER)

PULL OUT YOUR FILTER AND IT'S GOODIES-NOW PRETEND YOU ARE THE VALVE COVER NEEDING FRESH AIR-ACTUALLY SUCK ON THE BOTTOM OF THAT "IMPOSTER ELBOW PCV"-IF IT "CHECKS"-YOU ARE NOT GETTING "MAKE UP AIR" INTO THE ENGINE

SIMPLE FIX-GRIND OFF THE BOTTOM AND REMOVE THE SPRING AND GUTS-NOW YOU HAVE AN "ELBOW" THAT LOOKS LIKE A PCV!

YEAH-THEY DID THIS CAUSE IT FIT WELL AND HAD NO CLUE IT WOULD STARVE TH CARB OF AIR, ESPECIALLY MORE AT IDLE SPEED!

THIS MAY BE ONE OF YOUR PROBLEMS

HOW ARE WE DOIN'?

UNDERSTAND THE STUFF I'M SHOVELIN'?

I'M SO GLAD YOU KEEP RESPONDING, I REALLY LIKE TO KNOW I'M STILL NEEDED. CJs ARE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN ON HERE

OTHER CRAP TO SEE MIGHT BE FOUND ON YAHOO / GOOGLE / ETC BY TYPING IN "2CARPROS" AND "CJ MEDEVAC" ON THE SEARCH BAR-THEN HIT "IMAGES"

IT'S LATE-I'LL LOOK AT YOUR PICS TOMORROW

KEEP IT UP-LET ME KNOW WHAT IS NEXT

THE MEDIC

OH YEAH!

MORE ON THE PCV AND CARB

JUST THROWING STUPID NUMBERS/ AS I AM NO SCIENTIST/ BUT I DO KNOW THE "BIG PICTURE"

LET'S SAY THE CARB IN ALL PERFECTION IS WORKING 100% EFFICIENT AT IDLE

IT'S CRACKED OPEN AND CONSUMING 5 CFMs OF OUTSIDE AIR

IT'S ALSO CONSUMING 1 CFM OF AIR FROM THE PCV (RE-ROUTED, NOW "DIRTY AIR"), THE "PCV" IS MATCHED TO THIS CARB, AS
IT'S DESIGN ALLOWS THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF AIR THRU

THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF PCVs OUT THERE-USE THE RIGHT ONE!

THE INTERNAL PASSAGES AND JETS OF THE CARB ARE "BUILT" FOR THIS "6" CFMs OF AIR

CHANGE THE VALUES AND IT WON'T ADJUST RIGHT, NOR BE AT 100%-LIKE RESTRICTING THE FLOW AS YOUR IMPOSTER PCV ELBOW IS DOING!

CASE IN POINT

IF YOU DO GO WITH A 1979 TYPE CARB INSTEAD OF THE STEPPER TYPE-YOU WILL NEED TO USE A 1979 PCV TO KEEP THINGS SORTA CALIBRATED

YOU CAN VERIFY THIS BY LOOKING UP PICS/ PART NUMBERS AT ONLINE AUTO PARTS STORES OF DIFFERENT YEARS OF JEEPS OR OTHER VEHICLES

BED TIME,

THE MEDIC

Thanks Medic,
I was adding some additional info and right as I was finishing I lost everything. Oh well once I reopened the page I saw your posts.
Yes I am picking up what you are putting down, no problem.
I have a couple of questions when you look at my pics tomorrow, and I have attached 2 more here, hopefully they fit.
1) I have completed the vacuum hose replacement, per your earlier post linked above. I think it helped, but I had to run as soon as I finished so I dint get to play with it much to really tell. I will add pics tomorrow of the reroute. Breaks are connected to the big port on drivers side of carb. I will check out the filter on the rear PCV and get it fixed.
2) I have changed the real PCV hose, as mine was pretty nicked up. I have added the pic below. 2 problems:
a. They didn’t have 3/8” fuel hose so I had to buy radiator hose. Will this work ok, or do I need to replace?
b. The PCV from the front of the block runs to a T near the back of the carb where it hits some electrical device, then it T’s again and heads to the carb and to the vac canister. Do you know what this devise is, and should all of this be removed and go straight from PCV to the Carb? Pic attached and labeled. Hope it helps clear up what I am saying.
3) I have added a pic of the idle screw. I only have one. After reading through the link from yesterday, I noticed I do not have a curb idle screw. Is this causing me issues?
4) Realizing that I don’t really know what I am doing. I don’t see the pins moving in the back of the carb, not matter what adjustments I make. I am wondering if I messed up the stepper motor, and that is the root of the idle problem. You mentioned taking the carb to the ’79 version. I will read through that post and get back to you. I have been quite frustrated with this issue, and I have been contemplating just replacing the carb. Do you think this is necessary/useful, or is that an overreaction at this point?
Again I appreciate all your help. Will look forward to more of your input soon

GR

3RD ATTEMPT

Thanks Medic,
I will scrap all the devices, and run the hoses straight through. I have added pics of what I have done so far. Hopefully you can read all my labels, and see the pics clearly enough to tell what is what.

1 question: I thought you put the filter on the end of the hose at carb vent? Do you have more than one 3/8" fuel filter, or did I misunderstand?

I think the stepper either was broken before or is now after I messed with it today, pics attached.
I am thinking about going with a Motorcraft 2100 carb. I can buy a rebuilt carb, pre tuned for my CJ and the adaptor kit for less than $300. I know I can buy a new Carter slightly cheaper, but from everything I have read, the MC is a better carb. I can also pull one from a salvage yard and rebuilt kit on the MC for about $150 all in. Any advice there, had any dealings with the MC2100?
Thanks for all your help.
GR

MY PAL'S 1986 "7"

YOU MIGHT LOOK AT WHAT'S "GONE"!

I HAD 2 "USELESS" FUEL FILTERS WHEN I HAD MY BBD (NOTICE I NOW HAVE A 4 BBL 390 CFM HOLLEY ON A 4 BBL INTAKE) ON MY JEEP

IF YOU WILL LOOK BACK AT THE PIC OF THE BOWL VENT ( I'LL POST IT BELOW) MY FILTER (DUST/ BUG CONTROLLER WAS DANGLIN' ON THE LOWER LINE, JUST DANGLED BELOW THE CARB--SORTA LOOK HOW I PASTED THE FILTER IN THE PIC

WITH MY HOLLEY, I DO NOT NEED A BOWL VENT FILTER/ DUST CONTROL

THE OTHER FILTER WAS FOR MY FUEL TANK VENT-IT IS THE ONE ON THE FIREWALL- IT IS STILL THERE

THE MEDIC

0145 HRS HERE

BUSY DAY TOMORROW

I WILL ADDRESS YOUR "ALTERNATE CARBS" QUESTIONS SOON AS I CAN TOMORROW!

I'LL GIVE YOU "MY OPINIONS" (NOT THAT THEY ARE THE BEST-US), BUT I'M NOW 50 AND I HAVE NEVER OWNED (AS MY DAILY DRIVER) ANYTHING ELSE BUT A CJ 5 SINCE 1981- 6 TOTAL, THEN THERE'S GOOD OLE "WILLY", MY 1946 WILLYS. IN OTHER WORDS, I HAVE EXPERIENCE, BUT I REALIZE SOME OTHER FOLKS DO TOO. THEN THERE'S THE "WANNA BEs", WHO CAN TALK SOME JUNK, CAUSE THEY "HEARD ABOUT" THIS OR THAT

-KINDA THOSE SAME GUYS WHO WILL BLAME ANY AND EVERY "NO START AND RUN" ON "VAPOR LOCK", WHICH DOES EXIST, BUT IS PROBABLY THE MOST SELDOM SEEN PROBLEM ON A VEHICLE

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1983-jeep-cj7-weber-carb-take-off-thru-gears-seems-run-ok-starts-sputtering

I HAVE MORE THOUGHTS-GIMME TIME!

GOTTA INSTALL AN A/C COMPRESSOR ON MY MOMs '86 THUNDERBIRD/ THEN HELP A PAL INSTALL 2 FUEL PUMPS AND TANKS ON A '92 FORD F-150

I WILL RETURN!

AS YOU CAN SEE, I MAKE THINGS EZier FOR MY BAD FOOT ON THE COMPANY MOWER!

THE OTHER IS JEEP #1, IT WAS A '77 LIKE MY PRESENT ONE, IT HAD A 304 (TOO MUCH ENGINE FOR A JEEP)-I PAINTED "MR. JEEP" (JEEP # 6) VERY SIMILAR TO #1 JEEP

THE MEDIC

ALL RIGHTY THEN

AS FAR AS CARBS GO

I'VE HAD A "WO" AND NOW A "SOLEX" IN "WILLY

IN MY OTHER 6 CJs, I'VE HAD A "CARTER YF" (1 BBL), "CARTER BBDs (SEVERAL), A "MOTORCRAFT" (ON MY 1st, A 304), ON THE PRESENT ONE, STARTED WITH A "BBD", TRIED A "WEBER DGEV", AND NOW I'M REALLY HAPPY WITH THE "HOLLEY 390" AND 4 BBL OFFENHAUSER INTAKE.

MY QUEST FOREVER HAS BEEN MAX MPGs (EVEN IF I SPENT A FORTUNE GETTING THERE!)

I'VE TRIED MIGHT NEAR EVERY GIMMICK, RANGING FROM OPPOSING MAGNETS ON THE FUEL LINE, TO THE "TORNADO" ATOP THE CARB AND SO MANY MORE.

I MAY NOT HAVE GIVEN THE WEBER A FAIR SHAKE, AS I WAS TRIAL AND ERRORing, THE JETS AND OTHER GOODIES THAT IT HAD (LIKE EMULSION TUBES, ETC.) I THINK I WAS TOO EAGER, AND HAVE SINCE LEARNED HOW TO "READ" MY FUEL MIXTURE USING AN O2 SENSOR

*******YOU STILL GOT AN O2 IN YOUR EXHAUST MANIFOLD?******

I CHOSE THE WEBER FOR 2 REASONS

1) PROMISE OF 20% MORE MPGs (I NEVER PASSED THE BBDs MPGS WITH IT)

2) PARTS WERE EZ TO ACCESS AND CHANGE, SUCH AS THE JETS-I DID HAVE TO ORDER THEM

AS FOR THE HOLLEY-I HAVE NEARLY $800 IN THE CARB AND INTAKE, YEP, I'M HARDHEADED!

HOWEVER, THE ONLY REASON I "AFFORDED IT" WAS I WON ENOUGH ON A LOTTERY TICKET TO COVER THE "SPUR OF THE MOMENT, COMPULSIVE PURCHASE"!

IT IS SO EZ TO "JET"/ MESS WITH THE FLOATS/ ALL OF MY PARTS ARE USUALLY "LOCAL"

I USUALLY GET 18 MPG OR SO WHEN I PAY ATTENTION TO MY DRIVING (I HAVE A VACUUM GAUGE ON MY DASH) THE COOL THING IS, I HAVE POWER WHEN I GET ON IT (WHICH I SELDOM NEED TO DO-I'M AN OLD 50 YEAR OLD FART NOW!)

HAD I NOT BEEN ABLE TO BUY THE HOLLEY AND INTAKE, MY PLAN WAS TO REVERT BACK TO MY 1979 BBD, I WAS NO LONGER FRIENDS WITH THE WEBER. I STILL HAVE MY OLD INTAKE AND CARB, JUST IN CASE!

OTHER JEEP PEOPLE THAT I ASSIST HAVE HAD VARIOUS CARBS ON THEIR 258s. MOST ARE A HASSLE TO CHANGE THE JETS OR MAKE ADJUSTMENTS

ONE PAL OF MINE HAS MODIFIED HIS DISTRIBUTOR, AS TO HAVE THE TOWERS FURTHER OUT FROM CENTER

HIS "REASONING" OR WHAT OTHERS "CRAMMED IN HIS HEAD WAS THAT THE OEM SET-UP WOULD "CROSSFIRE" AT HIGHER RPMs, AS THE "POSTS" WERE CLOSER TO EACH OTHER

BAH-HUMBUG!

ABOUT 100 MPH IS AS FAST AS I HAVE EVER DROVE MINE (ONCE OR TWICE, BACK WHEN I WAS BULLETPROOF!) 75 MPH IS AS FAST AS I WANNA GO THESE DAYS!

YOU KNOW, I NEVER EXPERIENCED "CROSSFIRE", OR IF I DID, I DID NOT KNOW IT?

DOING "WILD MODs" LIKE THAT REALLY MESS YOU UP WHEN IT'S TIME TO REPLACE "THAT PART" AT A PARTS STORE-OR EVEN WORSE, HAVING SOMEONE PICK IT UP FOR YOU WHEN YOU ARE ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD

I'M GOING WITH THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING MAY BE LEAKING-MAYBE THE THERMOSTAT SLIPPED DOWN WHEN IT WAS BEING INSTALLED, NOW IT MAY BE PINCHED AT THE BOTTOM (DID THE MIRROR HELP?)

THERE IS THE POSSIBILITY OF A SEEPING HEAD GASKET OR A CRACK IN THE HEAD, BUT I REALLY DOUBT IT, MY MONEY'S ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING/ THERMOSTAT GASKET/ THE "SLIPPED" THERMOSTAT

THOSE VACUUM PORTS ON THE INTAKE (THE PLASTIC ONES) ARE VACUUM SWITCHES, THEY WORKED WHEN THE INTAKE (RADIATOR JUICE) GOT HOT- THERE AGAIN THEY ARE "JUNK" NO NEED TO CAP 'EM OFF, AS THEY ARE DEAD WITH NO HOSES CONNECTED. IF YOU WANT TO "SLICK THINGS UP", 3/8 INCH AND OR 1/2 INCH PIPE THREAD (NPT) PLUGS (STEEL OR BRASS) CAN TAKE THEIR PLACE

WHERE DO YOU STAND NOW? ARE YOU GETTING THINGS BETTER?

I'LL KEEP ON RESPONDING, AS LONG AS YOU DO!

YOUR LAST PICS WERE GREAT, SEND MORE AS YOU PROGRESS

THE MEDIC

Thanks for all the carb input. Things are not getting much better, as I havent realy had time to get out and work on it since Saturday morning. But I feel good that I have pinpointed my issue, as the carb. I can get her to idle beautifually as long as I hold the choke slightly closed. I thought about adjusting the choke, but then I figured even if I adjust it,once the engine warmed I would have the same issue that I don now. Now I just need to decide to bebuild the carter or put the MC2100 on it.

I wasn't able to tell if the thermostat or gasket has slipped, but I should have an extra hand to help in the next few days, and i am hoping to get a better look at it.
I will kepp you updated on my progress, and seend you pics as I move ahead.
Thanks,
GR

HOW ARE THINGS COMING ALONG?

HERE'S ANOTHER ONE YOU MIGHT TAKE A GANDER AT

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1993-acura-vigor-this-great-car-now-giving-little-trouble-exhaust-leak-on-loud

THE MEDIC

THIS MAY (OR MAY NOT HELP)

HAVE TO CHOKE?

SOMETIMES MEANS

NOT ENOUGH GAS

OR EVEN TOO MUCH AIR

FLOATS MAY NOT BE ADJUSTED RIGHT (TOO LOW) (LITTLE GAS)

OR THE POSSIBLE VACUUM LEAK - DO THIS OUTSIDE WITH A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY (A WET TOWEL MIGHT WORK WELL BEFORE YOU HOSE IT WITH THE EXTINGUISHER!)

INSURE YOU CAPPED ALL OPEN PORTS ON THE CARB AND INTAKE MANIFOLD (NOT THE SWITCHES THAT ARE DEAD) WHILE IT'S RUNNING, IF YOU FIND A VACUUM PORT YOU ARE UNSURE OF, IT WILL SUCK YOUR FINGER TO IT IF IT'S LIVE (BASICALLY, A VACUUM LEAK)

CRANK IT UP AND EITHER USE A *****UNLIT PROPANE TORCH***** PROPANE-NO FIRE!!!! ANY PLACE VACUUM COULD LEAK (HOSES, INTAKE,UNDER THE CARB (MAKE SURE IT IS BOLTED DOWN WELL,) GET THE PROPANE CLOSE--IF YOU HEAR THE ENGINE REV AT ALL, YOU MAY HAVE FOUND THE LEAK, AS IT IS DRAWING IN MORE FUEL INTO THE LEAK

CARB CLEANER WORKS TOO, DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU USE, EITHER IT WILL REV, OR IT MAY DIE DOWN WHEN IT HITS THE LEAK

THE MEDIC

Hey couple of things.
I CAN ALSO SHOW YOU HOW TO FIND A "KEEPER" INEXPENSIVE, TRUST-ABLE MECHANIC (IF YOU NEED ONE) I PROMOTE DIY TO THE FULLEST EXTENT! ---- I'm Interested

I CAN ALSO SHOW YOU HOW TO SAVE A GOOD CHUNK OF $$$ IF YOU ARE BUYING YOUR OWN PARTS ---- Very Interested!

"Have to Choke?" -- I don't guess I know what you are asking.

I agree with your premise though, for one reason or another my fuel mixture is too lean. The question is what is the best way to fix it. Since I broke or (as I am telling my wife) discovered the broken stepper motor, I can try to replace the stepper and rebuild my carb. Or I can go to the older model Carter, or move to the Ford carb.
I'm not thinking I have a vacuum leak, I have looked, capped hoses and ports, and tried to tighten all the bolts and screws on the existing set up. I could have missed one, and I will try the trick with the carb cleaner just to check.
But I cant seem to get the pins to move no matter what I try, so I am thinking that is the cause of the incorrect fuel mixture.

Any thoughts here?

THE PINS WILL NEVER MOVE!-ALL THE CRAP THAT MADE IT WORK ARE GONE/ BROKE

BASICALLY, IT IS NOW AN OLDER BBD, WITHOUT A STEPPER


https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

MORE COMING SOON

THE MEDIC

HERE'S THE MECHANIC PART

I DO NOT SEE WHERE YOU MIGHT NEED 'EM FOR THE JEEP, EXCEPT MAYBE FOR A TRANNY/ ENGINE/ AXLE REBUILD (MORE COMPLICATED STUFF) EVERY THING ELSE IS A BREEZE! I CAN HELP YOU THRU IT ALL! AS LONG AS YOU ALWAYS RETURN TO THIS THREAD, I WILL GET NOTIFIED, NO MATTER HOW LONG YOU WAIT.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2005-ford-f-150-dealer

I'VE GOT MORE GOOD INFO, I JUST HATE GIVING IT UP SO QUICK, AS I MIGHT NOT GET TO "HELP FIX", SHOULD YOU OPT FOR THE GREAT INFO

OBVIOUSLY, YOU HAVE NOT COME ACROSS IT IN OLDER POSTS YET! (YES, I GOT ABANDONED WITH THEM ALSO!) THERE ARE STILL THE FEW WHO COME BACK FOR ANOTHER HELPING OR TWO!

ARE YOU READY TO START TUNING???

HAVE YOU ALREADY TRIED/ DONE SO, BY LOOKING AT OLDER CJ POSTS I ANSWERED?

NEED ME TO STEER YOU THRU IT AGAIN?

DO YOU HAVE THE DWELL/ TACH AND TIMING LIGHT AVAILABLE?

HAVE YOU BEEN ABLE TO COMPREHEND POSTS, PAST AND PRESENT, WITH MY- WELL-UNIQUE APPROACH WITH MY WRITING/ 'SPLAINING AND PICS?

IF YOU HAVE ELIMINATED ALL VACUUM LEAKS (YOU MIGHT EVEN CAP OFF THE BRAKE BOOSTER PORT ON THE MANIFOLD [TEMPORARILY] TO SEE IF THINGS IMPROVE, AS THE OLE BOOSTER MAY BE SUCKING AIR [WHICH IS A VACUUM LEAK IN ITSELF -REPLACE IT IF IT'S BAD]. SOMETIMES YOU CAN HEAR ONE HISSING NEAR THE PEDALS OR AT THE FIREWALL

ANYWAY, IF ALL IS GOOD, I FEEL LIKE WE CAN TUNE YOU UP WELL

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

I am leaving on Friday and will be gone until next weekend. When I get back I was already planning on setting the timing.I have read through the timing post a couple of times, and I think I can do it, but I think I will check with you first before I start to make sure I have everything right before I start.

Thanks for the link I will absolutly use that for any parts orders I need down the road.

I will be able to get out and check all the vacuum leaks tomorrow, thanks for the heads up on the break booster, I hadn't thought of checking that for a leak.
I will let you know what/if anything I find before I head out on Friday, and then I will touch base after I get back and we can talk through the timing stuff before I tackle that.

Thanks again for all your help. Talk to you soon.

I'M BORED

GLAD WHEN YOU GET BACK!

THE MEDIC

I'm back! Lets work on the timing, and get this thing running right. I will reread through your other posts, but any info you have to add is awesome.
Thanks,
GR

I RECKON YOU ARE SORTA GOING BY THE "STALLS WHEN HOT" CJ POST?

KEY STUFF (WHICH YOU MIGHT REPEAT A TIME OR TWO) SORTA LIKE CALLING IN ARTILLERY, YOU "BRACKET" YOUR TARGET, SLOWLY WALKING THE ROUNDS IN TILL YOU NAIL IT!

1) GET IT TO OPERATING TEMP FOR ANY ADJUSTMENTS-CARB OR TIMING

2) NO MATTER WHAT YOU ARE A DOIN, KEEP THE CURB IDLE TO SPECS-EXAMPLE YOU PLAY WITH THE MIX SCREWS AND YOUR IDLE SPEED CLIMBS TO 100 RPM MORE THAN CURB IDLE-FIX IT!-DROP IT 100 RPM WITH THE IDLE SCREW-IT HAPPENS AGAIN AS YOU ADJUST THE OTHER-FIX IT!

IF IT DIES DOWN BELOW CURB IDLE-GET IT BACK TO CURB IDLE!

YOU MAY HAVE TO ADJUST STUFF SEVERAL TIMES-IF THE IDLE IS TOO HIGH, THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE (WEIGHT DRIVEN ADVANCE INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR) WILL "ADVANCE" AND CHEAT THE PROCESS. I'VE SEEN THE SPRINGS ON THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE BE BROKEN AND MESS UP THE WHOLE TIMING PROCESS, NOT TO MENTION YOU "LOSE" YOUR MECHANICAL ADVANCE (JEEP HOLDS BACK WHEN TRYING TO DRIVE)

3) LOOSEN THE DISTRIBUTOR BOLT SO THAT IT HAS FRICTION, YOU MUST DELIBERATELY MOVE IT, NOT FLOPPY LOOSE SO THAT IT MOVES ON IT'S OWN

WHEN YOU MOVE THE TIMING-IDLE SPEED WILL CHANGE-FIX IT! THE IDLE SPEED MUST BE DEAD ON WHEN YOUR MARKS ARE CORRECT. TIGHTEN THE BOLT. IS IT ALL STILL RIGHT?

NOW, HOOK UP YOUR VACUUM ADVANCE LINE. IF YOU ARE USING "MANIFOLD VACUUM" (LIKE I DO) YOUR IDLE SPEED WILL INCREASE BIG TIME AS THE DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCES- (I/ YOU FIX IT BACK TO CURB IDLE)

IF YOU USE PORTED VACUUM TO THE VACUUM ADVANCE, CHANCES ARE THAT THE IDLE WILL NOT CHANGE

REMEMBER, YOUR STUFF AIN'T FACTORY ANYMORE

YOUR SPECS ARE 9 DEGREES AT 680 RPM?

YOU COULD SAFELY GO AT 10 DEGREES AT 700 RPM TO KEEP IT SIMPLE, AND MORE LIKE A '79

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Medic,
Thanks for the pointers. Yes I was using the stalling while hot post, I still have it (and several other of your posts) open in my browser from 3 weeks ago for reference.
I have two issues that may affect my ability to correctly.
1) I don't have a working Tachometer, so I have know Idea what RPM I am at idle, or anywhere else for that matter. I simply have been working and driving by feel and sound since I bought it.
Any suggestions how do get the timing right without a working tach?
I have been planning to replace the non working gauges (tach and fuel/temp) but then I started having this idle problem, and so I got diverted from my plan.
If I need to get the gauge working first I will have to order one.
2) I am still having the problem getting the jeep to idle after it warms up, without forcing fuel, or adjusting the fast idle screw to hold the throttle open, and that makes it idle way too high for me to be comfortable leaving it there for long.

I did play with it tonight for a while, and I adjusted the choke, using another of your posts of course, and I had it idle much better, but when I hit the accelerator I had black smoke pouring out of the exhaust, and the fuel smell was overwhelming. I played with it for a while, but I either had the mixture too lean, and lost the idle, or too rich and almost choked my neighbors dog. I went back to the setting I had it at yesterday, since I at least know what I am working with there.

All vacuum lines are removed/plugged, except from the distributor to ported vac, and the PCV per your suggestions. I also checked for leaks everywhere using break cleaner again, and still cannot find anything.

Let me know what you think,

GR

I HAVE NOT FORGOTTEN YOU

I JUST SUBMITTED 2 NOVELS- SPENT ABOUT AN HOUR EACH

SITE WILL NOT LET ME LINK/ NOR CAN I COPY AND PASTE

I BASICALLY "WROTE IT ALL OUT" TO GET PAST THE LINK PROBLEM

BOTH NOVELS AND PICS WERE LOST WHEN I SUBMITTED THEM

TOO LATE AND TIRED TO TRY FOR NUMBER 3

I PROMISE I'LL TRY AGAIN AFTER WORK TOMORROW

THE MEDIC

AT OPERATING TEMP, THE CHOKE SHOULD WANNA "COME OFF" COMPLETELY

THE ONLY THING THAT SHOULD/ COULD KEEP IT FROM STANDING AT ATTENTION (VERTICAL) IS THE THROTTLE, THAT IS, THE CHOKE LINKAGE TO IT

'NUTHER WORDS, ACTUATE THE THROTTLE AND IT SHOULD TURN LOOSE OF THE LINKAGE-CHOKE SHOULD STAND VERTICAL

IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE, WE HAVE A PROBLEM/ ADJUSTMENT/ A REPAIR TO DO

PICS OF THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CARB MIGHT HELP ME FIGGER IT OUT (REMOVE THE BREATHER-AND MAKE SURE THE BREATHER IS NOT INTERFERING WITH THE CHOKE LINKAGE STUFF)

DWELL/ TACH METER? PAWN SHOP?

HERE'S A "GET BY" IDEA

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sunpro-super-tach-ii-2-5-8-black-face-black-bezel-cp7906/9030131-P?searchTerm=tachometers+%26+related

THIS IS ONE OF MANY ON THE ADVANCE AUTO SITE- THIS ONE IS INEXPENSIVE (THEY WORK RATHER WELL) ONE W/ A LARGER FACE MIGHT MAKE ADJUSTMENTS EZier

NEVER THE LESS YOU CAN SAVE $10 USING PROMO "A124"- ( OR SAVE $25 W/ PURCHASE OVER $70, OR SAVE $40 W/ A $110 PURCHASE) SEE THE "NEON POST" AGAIN TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BUYING POWER. I USED A124 LAST NIGHT TO PURCHASE A WINDOW MOTOR FOR MY MAMA'S '86 T-BIRD, SO IT IS STILL VALID

SO GET ONE YOU LIKE!

FOR NOW WE ARE GONNA TEMPORARILY "JUMPER WIRE" IT FOR UNDER HOOD USE

MIGHT EVEN RIG A MICROPHONE STAND OR COUNTRY BOY EQUIVALENT TO HOLD IT CLOSE TO YOUR ADJUSTING AND NOT HAVE IT LAID IN THERE ON THE ENGINE WHERE IT WOULD VIBRATE TERRIBLY

WHEN YOU FINALLY GET A "SHOP MODEL"- YOU CAN INSTALL THIS ONE IN THE DASH OR ON THE COLUMN

JUST SO YOU KNOW "WHY"

IF THE RPMs ARE HIGH - YOU MAY BE RUNNING ON YOUR "MAINS" INSIDE THE CARB (NOT ON THE IDLE CIRCUIT) IF YOU AIN'T ON THE IDLE CIRCUIT, ADJUSTING THE MIXTURE SCREW IS FRUITLESS

SAME FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR- TOO MUCH RPMs WILL MAKE THE INTERNAL "MECHANICAL (CENTRIFUGAL) ADVANCE"- START ADVANCING ON IT'S OWN-THUS MESSING UP YOUR STARTING POINT

LOTS OF THINGS CAN THROW IN GLITCHES THAT WILL HAVE YOU CHASING YOUR TAIL! TO MAKE IT ALL WONDERFUL, IT ALL MUST COME TOGETHER!

EVEN GETTING MORE TECHNICAL, IF THE SPRING(S) FOR THE WEIGHTS ON THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE ARE MISSING OR BROKEN, YOU CAN "TIME IT" FOR IDLE (IT'LL ACT RIGHT), BUT IT WILL COUGH AND "HOLD BACK" AS YOU ACCELERATE, AS IT IS UNABLE TO THROW THE SPARK SOONER AND SOONER AS ENGINE SPEED INCREASES

I CAN HOOK YOU UP WITH "THEORY" ON THIS STUFF IF YOU NEED SOME MORE ENGINE SCHOOLING -IT'S ALL IN ANOTHER POST!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Hey Medic,
Sorry I went quiet. We decided to go out of town for a couple of days at the last minute. Trying to get everything in until the kids go back to school.
I am going to order the tach from advanced. Can you walk me through the "jumper wire" set up? I am planning on having some time to work on this tomorrow or Monday. I have the timing light. Should this tach and the light get be ready to set the timing?
I haven't had any luck finding a dwell/tach meter at the pawn shops or Harbor freight with the kit you pictured in another post.
Thanks,

When you get the tach. Inside will be a piece of paper

My wife thinks that kinda paper is for packing purposes and immediately crams it into the far depths of our trash can, normally this is moments before the trash truck arrives

In case yours has you believing this too, it is not!

This is the instructions!

Most likely, it's gonna be 2 wires that you need

1) a ground

2) negative side of the coil

On the back side, you will move the selector switch to "six (6) cylinder"

Hooking up the light would be optional for under the hood-basically it would need 12 volts-not necessarily thru the light switch as when dash mounted!

Confident?

The medic

Grasor, did you ever find the problem? I have a 83 CJ7 that will only stay running if the gas pedal is pushed in. I have a in line fuel filter that appears to stay empty. I did replace the fuel pump.