I GET TIMED OUT TOO OFTEN AND LOSE MY POSTING WHEN I SUBMIT IT. NOW I'M REFRESHING ANOTHER TAB, BEFORE I SUBMIT
LAST PIC
I HOPE YOU WERE ABLE TO SEE THE "PROBLEMS" I FOUND
THESE WILL AFFECT THE RUNNING AND RELIABILITY OF YOUR JEEP
NEED TO KNOW WHEN THESE HAVE BEEN ADDRESSED
1) WRONG PCV
2) TWO CARB VENTS UNCAPPED AND "BREATHING" CLEAN AIR
3) FUEL TANK VENT LINE (THE GARDEN HOSE GREEN COLORED ONE)
4) THE IGNITION MODULE WIRING BACK TO CORRECT AS IN THE EARLIER DIAGRAM I SENT (NO EXTRA GROUNDING)
5) DWELL/ TACH? EVEN A CHEAP "DASH TACH" (USED PORTABLE UNDER THE HOOD) WILL WORK IN A PINCH, IT'S MUCH HARDER TO "TWEAK IN" ADJUSTMENTS WITH A SHORT NEEDLE SWEEP. WE CANNOT PROPERLY "TIME" OR ADJUST THE CARB WITHOUT A TACH IN YOUR FACE! RUNNING BACK AND FORTH TO THE DASH DON'T CUT IT!
I WANT YOU TO DO THIS "MY WAY" TO INSURE WE ARE AT TDC, AND THE WIRES ARE IN SEQUENCE
BATTERY CABLE OFF!
SCREW OUT #1 PLUG, SCREW IT BACK IN 2 THREADS (LOOSE IN THE HOLE)
USING A RATCHET AND SOCKET ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT "CW" VIEWED FROM THE FRONT
(THIS COULD REQUIRE NEARLY 2 REVOLUTIONS OR LESS, DEPENDING ON THE POSITIONS OF THE VALVES) IF YOU "MISS IT", KEEP ON TURNING! BUMPING THE ENGINE W/ THE STARTER SOMETIMES GETS BUMPED TOO FAR, IT ROTATES BACK, OR PASSES THE MARKS. HARD TO GO WRONG WITH A SLOW RATCHET!
AS YOU RATCHET, YOU WILL HEAR AIR HISS UP AROUND THE LOOSE SPARK PLUG
STOP/ REST FOR A SECOND! YOU ARE NOW COMING UP WITH NUMBER 1 PISTON AND YOU ARE ON COMPRESSION STROKE. WHEN IT REACHES THE EXACT TOP OF IT'S TRAVEL WE WILL BE ON TDC
SINCE WE CANNOT SEE IN THERE- IN A PERFECT WORLD- WHEN OUR HARMONIC BALANCER LINE OR "MARK" LINES UP ON "ZERO" OF THE STATIONARY NUMBERED MARKS ON THE TIMING SCALE (MADE ONTO THE TIMING CHAIN COVER) THE PISTON SHOULD BE AT THE VERY TOP!
OK BACK TO THE RATCHET, CONTINUE "CW" UNTIL YOU ARE ON ZERO!
STOP!
STOP!
(ABOVE, THE ONLY THING THAT WILL SCREW THIS UP, IS IF THE OUTER RING OF THE HARMONIC HAS "SLIPPED" ON THE RUBBER MIDDLE. IF IT HAS (SELDOM/ BUT DOES) THE CENTER OF THE BALANCER (KEYED TO THE CRANK) IS NO LONGER CALIBRATED TO THE TIMING LINE ON THE OUTER PART. DEPENDING ON HOW FAR IT SLIPPED, WILL THROW OFF TDC. A NEW OR REMANNED HARMONIC BALANCER IS THE FIX!
STOP!
OK, LETS GO AGAIN!
NOW POP THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP OFF
ON THE OUTSIDE BODY OF THE DISTRIBUTOR, MAKE A VERTICAL MARK, WITH A SHARPIE. THE MARK WILL NEED TO BE DEAD UNDER THE CENTER OF THE ROTOR BUTTON'S METAL TIP
REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP, NUMBER ONE WIRE SHOULD BE RIGHT THERE ABOVE YOUR MARK (KEEP READING)
IF YOU DIDN'T DROP THE DISTRIBUTOR "TEXTBOOK" (NOW WOULD BE THE TIME AT TDC!) IF YOU DON'T CARE ABOUT TEXTBOOK. YOUR MARK MIGHT BE ANYWHERE AROUND THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY.
THIS IS OK!
HOWEVER, YOU "MUST" PUT #1 WIRE ABOVE THE SHARPIE MARK, AND FROM THERE, IN A "CW" MANNER (VIEWED FROM ABOVE) CONTINUE THE FIRING SEQUENCE WITH THE OTHER WIRES
1-5-3-6-2-4
RE-INSTALL #1 SPARK PLUG!
READY TO TIME? GOT THE METER AND GUN?
THINGS TO CONSIDER
THIS GETS YOU REAL CLOSE
YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TWEAK THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY CW OR CCW TO GET IT TO CRANK AND STAY RUNNING
WHEN DOING THE TIMING PROCEDURE, IT MAY NEED EVEN MORE TWEAKING TO BE RIGHT
LET'S NOT DWELL ON THIS, I WANT YOU AWARE OF IT
DEPENDING ON HOW IT WAS INITIALLY DROPPED IN, YOU MAY "RUN OUT" OF TRAVEL BEFORE YOU GET TO THE DESIRED POSITION
2 WAYS TO MOVE IT
PICK IT UP AND MOVE THE ROTOR INTO A DIFFERENT CAM GEAR TOOTH
OR SOMETIMES
WHILE AT TDC, MAKE ANOTHER SHARPIE MARK UNDER THE 2 NEIGHBORING WIRES ROTATE THE (WHICHEVER NEW) SHARPIE MARK (WHICHEVER NEEDED DIRECTION) UNDER THE ROTOR BUTTON. NOW YOU NEED TO MOVE THE ENTIRE WIRE SEQUENCE A "JUMP" CW OR CCW. ALL DEPENDS ON WHERE YOU MUST MOVE IN ORDER TO BE ABLE TO SWING THE BODY
SOMETIMES YOU GOTTA "THINK THIS ALL OUT", WHICH WAY DO I NEED ROOM, WHICH WAY WILL MY SEQUENCE HAVE TO MOVE, REMEMBER! THE ROTOR TRAVELS CW!
NEED A BIG UPDATE NOW, ARE WE CAUGHT UP!
THE MEDIC
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Sunday, April 5th, 2015 AT 4:03 PM