I'M GONNA GO INTO THE SOLENOID
ON MINE, I HAVE SWITCHED THE ROLES OF THE TWO BIG POSTS. MOST OLDER FORDS ARE HOOKED LIKE YOU WILL SEE MINE
THE BIGGEST REASON I HAVE DONE BOTH OF MY JEEPS LIKE THIS IS. THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WILL BE RIGHT BESIDE "S" TERMINAL ("3" AND "C" IN MY PICS)
HAVING THEM SIDE BY SIDE I CAN USE A SCREWDRIVER SHAFT TO CONNECT THEM FOR A TEMPORARY "BUMP" OF THE ENGINEIF A REMOTE STARTER SWITCH IS UNAVAILABLE
IF THE KEY IS ON---I CAN START IT THAT WAY
LOOKING AT A CJ WIRING DIAGRAM THEY ARE USUALLY SWAPPED JUST OPPOSITEHOWEVER YOU CHOOSE TO DO IT
---THE STARTER CABLE IS "ALL BY ITSELF" ON ONE BIG POST
---THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE AND ALL "FEEDS" ARE SANDWICHED ON THE OTHER BIG POST
"S" AND "I" REMAIN THE SAME AND CANNOT BE SWITCHED (EXCEPT BY ACCIDENT---THEN IT WON'T DO NOTHIN'!)
THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ("1") HOOKS TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE SOLENOID (THE BIG POST, "A"). THE OTHER BIG POST ("B") IS FOR THE STARTER CABLE ONLY! ("2"), SORTA HARD TO SEE IN THE SHADOW
JUST FOR INFO--THE LITTLE STUD ON THE LEFT IS "S" TERMINAL ("C") TURNING THE KEY TO "START" MAKES THE IGNITION SWITCH SEND 12 VOLTS TO THE "S" TERMINAL, WHICH ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID---THEN THE STARTER TURNS OVER
THE OTHER LITTLE POST ON THE RIGHT, ("D"), IS "I" TERMINAL, IT SORTA BOOSTS THE COIL AT START-UP
NORMALLY "S" AND "I" ARE MOLDED INTO THE PLASTIC SO YOU WILL KNOW WHICH IS WHICH
FUSIBLE LINK ON A CJ AND OLDER FORDS (A SHORT WIRE ACTING AS A FUSE)----A FUSIBLE LINK IS A WIRE, BUT IT MELTS IF THE AMP DRAW GETS TOO HIGH---THEY COME IN DIFFERENT AMP RATINGS. MOST OF THE TIME IT'S THE LAST LINE OF DEFENSE IF A SHORT HAPPENS
THEY ARE USUALLY LOCATED IN THE SYSTEM WHERE THE WIRE WOULD START "COOKING" 1ST, SHOULD IT OVERHEAT, OFFERING THE BEST PROTECTION, TO PREVENT MASSIVE WIRE HARNESS MELTAGE OR A FIRE. IN THE CASE OF MY JEEPS, AT THE BEGINNING, WHERE THE POWER ORIGINATES
ON THE FORD SYSTEM (MY JEEP TOO) THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ("1") IS PIGGYBACKED ON TO OTHER WIRES ON THE SOLENOID (A)RIGHT HERE AT "THIS POINT", THE ENTIRE JEEP GETS ALL POWER INSIDE AND OUT
THE SOLENOID IN THE PICS BELONGS TO MY 1946 WILLYS JEEP, AND MY '77 ---I KINDA MIMICKED MUCH OF THE WAY MY 1977 CJ5 WAS WIRED, WHEN I MODERNIZED IT'S WIRING
"3" GOES TO MY FUSE BOX (POWERS EVERYTHING ON MY '46)
"4" GOES TO MY ALTERNATOR ---AGAIN ON MY '46
BOTH "3" AND "4" ARE FUSIBLE LINKS. SOME HAVE MARKINGS SUCH AS "3"---OTHERS ARE NOT MARKED, SUCH AS "4"
AS FAR AS SIZES, MANY ARE REFFED TO BY "GAUGE"
SOME DON'T LOOK NOTHIN' LIKE THESE ON OTHER CARS!
YOU CAN SEE THE "HEAT SHRINK" WHERE I TIED INTO "REAL WIRES"
THERE ARE 3 WAYS I CAN THINK OF TO TEST CJ FUSIBLE LINKS
1ST METHOD IS: IT'S OBVIOUSLY BURNED OR DISTORTED.
2ND METHOD IS A CONTINUITY TEST.
THE LAST AND EZist TO DO IS, TUG ON THE FUSIBLE LINK, IF IT FEELS STOUT, IT'S PROBABLY GOOD---IF YOU PULL ON IT AND IT THE INSULATION STRETCHES OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND, THE WIRE IS FRIED. BUT DID IT'S JOB IN PROTECTING THE CIRCUIT!
KEEP THIS IN MIND."WHY DID IT MELT/ BLOW?" FIX THE PROBLEM. DON'T JUST "STRAIGHT WIRE" IT BACK TOGETHER WITHOUT A FUSIBLE LINK. THIS IS JUST ASKING FOR SOMETHING BAD TO HAPPEN!
THE MEDIC
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Sunday, December 2nd, 2012 AT 11:45 PM