Engine does not continue to run

The module is the most common failure for this condition.

Roy

Check the part numbers to verify the correct module. There are 2 or 3 different ones

Roy

I'M GOING WITH AN IGNITION RELATED ISSUE!

JUST SO YOU KNOW A BIT OF HISTORY W/ ME. IMMA JEEP CJ KINDA GUY. MY DAD WAS 100% FORD. THE PICS AND SUCH WERE MADE MOSTLY OF MY JEEP, AND ARE USED FREQUENTLY IN THE CJ 5 & 7 FORUMS, HERE AT 2CAR. CJs DO USE A FORD TYPE IGNITION SYSTEM. SO BEAR WITH ME, IN THAT MY PICS WILL NOT LOOK LIKE YOUR TRUCK.

YOU DID NOT SAY WHAT ENGINE YOU HAVE. MIGHT COME IN HANDY FOR ME!

I WILL GET STARTED NOW!

PIC 1 SHOWS HOW A CJ IS SET UP FOR IGNITION. PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO "I" WIRE AND "I" TERMINAL (SORTA THE SAME THING)---TOP RIGHT OF DIAGRAM

"I" FEEDS THE COIL ONLY WHILE THE KEY IS IN THE START POSITION

MY HYPOTHESIS IS: THIS IS THE REASON IT'S "BUSTING OFF" (RUNNING)----THEN WHEN YOU RELEASE THE KEY."I" DIES, AND. THE REGULAR OLE IGN WIRE AIN'T FEEDING IT'S NORMAL JUICE, FROM "ON" POSITION" OF THE KEY!

SO. HERE'S POSSIBILITIES

IF YOU HAVE A RESISTANCE WIRE (LIKE MY JEEP) IT'S BROKE OR GROUNDED

MAYBE YOU HAVE BALLAST RESISTOR (MAYBE NOT), INSTEAD OF A RESISTANCE WIRE (MY RESTORED WILLYS JEEP NOW HAS A BALLAST RESISTOR). THEY COME IN DIFFERENT STYLES, THEY HAVE A RESISTOR COIL INSIDE THEM. THE BALLAST RESISTOR COULD BE BURNED OUT. SEE PIC 2

COULD BE A BAD IGNITION SWITCH

MAY BE COIL RELATED (I'LL GIVE YOU BETTER INFO ON THAT, WHEN I GET YOUR ENGINE SIZE). SEND PLEASE.I WILL THEN BE ABLE TO TELL IF YOUR "CORRECT" COIL NEEDS AN EXTERNAL RESISTOR OR NOT

LET'S SEE IF I'M RIGHT?

DO THIS, FORGET MY "READING". WHAT DO YOU HAVE. PIC 3

JUST A WILDAS GUESS, YOU SHOULD SEE AT LEAST 6 VOLTS ALL THE WAY UP TO WHATEVER YOUR BATTERY HAS IN IT (12 V)

SO. LET'S SAY YOU HAVE NOTHING OR NEAR NOTHING W/ KEY IN "ON"

WE WOULD LACK HAVING CONSTANT VOLTAGE TO THE COIL

DOING THIS. WOULD PROVE EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS. AS LONG AS THERE IS NOT A GROUNDED OUT WIRE.***POSITIVE BATTERY TO POSITIVE COIL***. SEE PICS 4 AND 5

IGN WIRING FROM THE IGN SWITCH IS STILL IN THE EQUATION. IF YOU DO IT THIS WAY.I HAVE A FUSE INCORPORATED INTO MY JUMPER. JUST IN CASE. JUST IN CASE I DON'T WANNA SEE A WIRING HARNESS FRY OR CATCH MY BABY ON FIRE!

THIS NEXT WAY, IS SORTA THE SAME THING. EXCEPT NOW, THE WIRING THROUGHOUT THE SYSTEM IS NOT IN THE EQUATION

SEE PIC 6. THIS IS A LITTLE SAFER, ESPECIALLY IF YOU DON'T USE A FUSE. EVERYTHING GETS BYPASSED

YOUR KEY---SHOULD STILL TURN THE STARTER OVER. WE DID NOT REMOVE "S" WIRE (SEE PIC 1)

REMOVING THE JUMPER FROM THE BATTERY IS HOW YOU WILL KILL THE ENGINE, IF IT STARTS UP AND RUNS

I HAVE NOT TRIED, NORMALLY OUR SOURCE FOR GETTING WIRE DIAGRAMS DOES NOT GO BACK THAT FAR. EVEN THEN I WOULD NEED YOUR ENGINE SIZE TO SEARCH

PICS 7 AND 8 ARE WHERE MY PICS CAME FROM

IF IN DOUBT OR NEED AN EXPLANATION. DO REPLY BACK. BEFORE YOU BLINDLY JUMP IN!

THE MEDIC

PS

GIVE YOUR TEST RESULTS BEFORE YOU START THROWING PARTS AT IT!

I CAN KEEP GOING. FOR AWHILE ANYWAY.I NEED A "DIRECTION" TO FOLLOW. NEED INFO I REQUESTED AND YOUR RESULTS

THE MEDIC

I ALSO MEANT TO THROW IN

IGN MODULES USUALLY HAVE A COLORED PLASTIC DEAL WHERE THE WIRES ENTER

MY 258 6 CYLINDER USES A "BLUE" ONE---SO DOES MY DAD'S '76 FORD F-150 W/351 WINSOR.I OBTAINED THE ONE IN THE PIC (AND SEVERAL MORE) FROM A SALVAGE YARD THAT I FREQUENTLY VISIT.

ALL OF THEM WERE OFF OF VARIOUS FORD VEHICLES. SELDOM FIND A CJ IN A SALVAGE YARD

THEY JUST "GAVE" 'EM TO ME.

I KEEP IT, A NEW FUEL PUMP, A COIL, THE LINK TO MY CLUTCH ARM IN MY CONSOLE, BETWEEN THE SEATS OF "MR. JEEP". ALONG WITH ABOUT 100 LBS OF TOOLS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT!

I'M GOOD, UNLESS A MAJOR ITEM SHELLS OUT

THESE ARE EZ. STUPID ITEMS THAT HAVE LEFT ME STRANDED, THAT I COULD EZily INSTALL IF I HAD POSSESSED THEM IN THE PAST

LUCKILY, SINCE I HAVE BEEN CARRYING THEM.I HAVE COME UPON 2 OTHER CJs ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. ONE USED MY SPARE FUEL PUMP. THE OTHER GOT MY EXTRA MODULE (I WAS GENEROUSLY REWARDED FOR INSTALLING BOTH!)

OF COURSE I REPLENISHED MY STASH!

NOTICE, I INSTALLED EACH AND EVERY USED MODULE ON MY JEEP FOR A "REAL WORLD" TEST. THEN WROTE ON MOST, THAT THEY WERE GOOD

THE MEDIC

I RECKON I SHOULD THROW THIS IN TOO!

I MEANT TO IN THE BEGINNING

IF YOU HAVE NO, OR VERY LITTLE VOLTAGE AT THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL WITH THE KEY IN THE "ON" POSITION. LETS TRY THIS 1ST!

I FEEL SURE YOU HAVE GLASS FUSES, AS I DO IN MY '77 (MR. JEEP)

ONE WILL MOST LIKELY BE FOR THE IGNITION. IF IN DOUBT, CHECK 'EM ALL

EVEN IF THE FUSE(S) IS/ARE GOOD A LITTLE SANDPAPER ON THEIR ENDS, AND MAYBE SOME SANDING OR SCRAPING OF THEIR HOLDERS MIGHT INSURE A GOOD CONNECTION.A DAB OF DIELECTRIC GREASE ON 'EM WON'T HURT EITHER

YOUR TRUCK IS 37 YEARS OLD. MY 36 YEAR OLD JEEP MIGHT BE MORE WEATHER EXPOSED.I HAVE HAD MY FUSES AND HOLDER GET A GRAYISH-WHITE LIGHT CORROSION ON THEM AND SOME STOPPED WORKING.

THE SAME GOES FOR THE FLOOR DIMMER SWITCH DAMPNESS AND CORROSION WILL CAUSE THE HEADLIGHTS TO BLINK OFF AND ON (EVEN MELT THE CONNECTOR) DIELECTRIC GREASE IS EVERYBODY'S FRIEND!

SHOULD THAT NOT DO THE TRICK, CONTINUE WITH THE MORE INVOLVED TESTING, SO WE CAN NARROW IT DOWN

THE MEDIC