brake bleeding

1971 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
FWD • AUTOMATIC
Avatar
ERIC SHREVE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
is bleeding brakes the same for all year and makes of cars?
Dec 2, 2010 at 6:39 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
DOCFIXIT
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 18,828 POSTS
Start RR then LR then RF then LF
Dec 2, 2010 at 6:53 PM
Avatar
CARADIODOC
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 34,308 POSTS
Pretty much, except for GM front-wheel-drive cars. Never push the brake pedal to the floor when pedal bleeding. There will be crud and corrosion in the lower halves of the bores where the pistons don't normally travel. Pushing it to the floor, like some people say to do, will run the lip seals over that crud and rip them.

I prefer gravity bleeding. Just loosen the cover on the master cylinder so it doesn't build up vacuum that prevents the fluid from leaving. When fluid drips from one bleeder screw, snug it up and wait for the others to drip. When all have been dripping and are tightened up, pump the pedal 1/4 way to the floor repeatedly to push the front pistons out, then open each bleeder for a few seconds to expel the last few air bubbles.

If you're replacing parts in the hydraulic system, you can prevent the master cylinder from running dry by placing a stick between the seat and brake pedal to hold the pedal down just an inch or two. Gravity won't be strong enough to pull the fluid down past the seals.

caradiodoc
Dec 2, 2010 at 6:53 PM
Advertisement