I have no spark when I crank the car over

--Check if you're getting power at the coil positive terminal if not check resistance wire to the ignition switch. If okay regap the point/s-also check cap and rotor

Just to add to this one I say remove the cap and see if you got water in there shorting out the spark. Thats the most likely cause of it not starting after washing the engine.

Did you check for power at the coil positive terminal and what do you got-

I AM ASSUMING YOU HAVE NOT MOVED ANYTHING ELSE!

I DO UNDERSTAND POINTS...I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT YOUR REPLACEMENT DISTRIBUTOR (BELLS AND WHISTLES?)

GOT 2 THINGS FOR YOU TO TRY, IF APPLICABLE

1) WITH A VOLTMETER TEST DO A CONTINUITY TEST, REMOVE DIST WIRE TO "NEG COIL"..... CONTINUITY TEST WILL BE THAT WIRE, THRU YOUR METER TO GROUND ON THE DISTRIBUTOR BASE........WHEN TURNING THE ENGINE OVER BY HAND, THE VOLTMETER SHOULD SHOW "NO CONTINUITY" WHEN THE POINTS ARE OPEN AND "CONTINUITY" WHEN THEY ARE CLOSED.....THIS WAS MY "LAST DITCH EFFORT...FINAL WAY OUT, OF MY BAD SITUATION", WHEN I HAD PROBLEMS WITH MY JEEP, YEARS AGO!

READ MY LAST REPLY ON THIS ONE!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj5-1975-jeep-cj5-wont-start

2) JUST FOR GIGGLES, LETS TRY POS BATTERY TO POSITIVE COIL WITH A JUMPER......RESULTS?.....IF ANY GOOD ONES, I MAY CAN HELP YOU LEAN IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION

3) DO YOU HAVE THE CORRECT COIL (INTERNAL/ EXTERNAL RESISTOR)? DO YOU KNOW HOW TO TEST IT

THE MEDIC

MAYBE MY TESTING WAS WRITTEN CONFUSING. DOING NOTHING ELSE JUMPING 12VOLTS TO THE POS COIL, FROM THE BATTERY. DOES WHAT? WHEN YOU TRY TO CRANK RIG?

I WANNA MAKE SURE, BEFORE I JUMP TO A CONCLUSION

BELOW IS A PIC OF MINE ('46 WILLYS) IF I DO A CONTINUITY TEST, MY METER IS SET ON "OHMS".

IF YOU PUT THE BLACK LEAD ON THE OUTER CASE---AND THE RED LEAD ON THE SCREW (2 O'CLOCK, ON MINE) AND THE POINTS ARE CLOSED (AS MINE ARE IN PIC) YOU SHOULD HAVE CONTINUITY (READING "1" ON A DIGITAL METER, OR ON A ANALOG, THE NEEDLE HAS PROBABLY PEGGED OUT)

IF YOU ROLL THE ENGINE OVER SLIGHTLY, THE POINTS OPEN----THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTINUITY. IF THERE IS, THE PROBLEM IS WITHIN THE DISTRIBUTOR!

AS I TOLD YOU IN A LINK ABOVE, THE PROBLEM I HAD, WAS WITH THE SCREW, INSIDE THE DIST (12 O'CLOCK) IT WAS TOO LONG, AND TOUCHED THE CASE ON THE INSIDE.I CONSTANTLY HAD CONTINUITY TOO. POINTS OPEN OR CLOSED. ANYTHING FROM THE MOVING PART (ARM) OF THE POINTS. ALL THE WAY TO THE STUD, IN WHICH YOU ATTACH THE WIRE, OR BEYOND THAT, COULD BE A (WRONG) PERMANENT GROUND. SOMETHING IS TOUCHING SOMEWHERE!

TRY THE TESTS AGAIN. WHAT ARE THE RESULTS?

AS FAR AS COIL, THIS IS MINE, "FOR USE WITH A EXTERNAL RESISTOR".I "DO HAVE" A "BALLAST RESISTOR", OR I COULD HAVE A "RESISTANCE WIRE" (BOTH ARE EXTERNAL RESISTORS). THEREFORE, I USE THIS TYPE OF COIL!HOW IS YOURS SET UP? DO YOU HAVE THE CORRECT COIL. OR DID THE PARTS GUY GIVE YOU THE WRONG ONE?

THE MEDIC

MISTAKE ABOVE! THE FOLLOWING LINE!

(READING "1" ON A DIGITAL METER, OR ON A ANALOG, THE NEEDLE HAS PROBABLY PEGGED OUT)

THIS SHOULD HAVE SAID, "READING 000" ON A DIGITAL OR NEEDLE PEGGED OUT! (THIS WOULD SHOW CONTINUITY!) 0400 EASTERN HERE, SORTA NEED TO BE IN THE BED!

THE MEDIC

HERE'S THE OTHER PIC I LEFT OFF

THE MEDIC