Hello texastony,
You are very welcome! Looks to me the MAF is getting power from a 20-amp fuse in the under-hood fuse panel. After that that wire looks to feed many circuits from a splice and from the goes directly to the MAF sensor. If you use a pin and back probe the connector using a multimeter at the connector you should have 12 volts. Since you don't seem to have issues with any other circuits that are part of that splice, I doubt it is the fuse. The splice just tells me it's a splice but doesn't give me a location. Should be in the main harness around the fuse box.
I would use a multimeter and a pin and connect to the pink wire only with the red lead and put the black lead on the negative on the battery and see if you have 12 volts.
If you do, then I would check the ground. This is the black wire with a white stripe or tracer it is called. Using the multimeter check for continuity between the ground at the connector and the engine ground on the top right of the block. Make sure you unplug the sensor for this test because when you use the continuity setting it produces a small amount of voltage and see's it at the end of the other lead. When set to the continuity setting first touch your 2 leads together and it should make a beeping sound. This will tell you your leads are working. Now disconnect the plug on the MAF and push a needle through where the back of the connector where the wire enters. Do not put it in the front because you can damage the connector. Now take the other lead and touch it to the ground on the motor. This will tell you if there is a problem with the ground wire.
Your original question stated that you had no power at the MAF so let's see why we have no power. I suggest doing these 2 tests and reply back with your findings.
Also visually inspect the harness and the ground location for any damage or corrosion. Clean any corrosion from the grounding location to make sure you are getting a good connection.
The last wire which is yellow is the signal wire that goes to the VCM for the MAF input. It is best to isolate the power and ground to rule out any damage on those wires.
More than likely it is the sensor, but I believe in diagnostics before throwing parts at it.
I highlighted each wire for you and showed just the part of the diagram where the wire begins and ends. In diagram # 89249 there are 3 wires one pink, one yellow, and one black with a white tracer. The pink wire goes directly to the 20-amp circuit circled in pink. It doesn't go anywhere between the sensor and that fuse. The spot in the circled area where there is a bunch of dots is the splice. It should be at or below the main under hood fuse panel. Probably a very thick harness. You will have to open the harness and see if there are any issues with that splice like corrosion or a broken wire.
Figure 8 is just a legend for figure 7. We know it is a 20-amp fuse which should be a yellow fuse. The number 539 might be next to the fuse I am not sure though.
Look for markings next to the fuses and see if there are any numbers. Also, when you pull the cover off is there a diagram on the underside of it?
If you could take a picture of the fuse box showing me all the fuses and take a picture of the underside of the fuse box cover and I can help you identify it.
From what I see the VCM is not providing the power. The power is coming from the fuse box through a slice directly to the MAF. The yellow wire is the only one going to the VCM for the MAF signal. If you look at figure 8 it shows what that fuse gives power to. One of those is the MAF.
The diagrams I am looking at that's what I am getting from them. I made a crude drawing to simplify the circuit for you. Not the best drawing but I was hoping it would help.
I don't know everything and will never pretend to, but you can count on me and our other experts to give you the best help possible.
Please try these tests and send me some pics of the fuse box and cover and see what we can find out. Then we can go from there.
Thank you,
Brendon
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Thursday, March 9th, 2023 AT 10:03 AM