Idling problem

Tiny
TIESTO870
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 HYUNDAI VELOSTER
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
Hi

I have a weird idling problem started 3 weeks ago when the car under no load at idling and parked the RPM goes up to 1,100 and revs to 1,800 to 2,000 and down and again 1,100 to 1,800, 2,000 and down. It keeps happening. It revs on it's own. Under load A/C on or at drive it's okat 500 to 680 rpm. I did a scan using OBD2 scanner nothing I did a reset for the idling and RPM through the odb2 same thing I did clean the throttle body using a throttle body cleaner same thing. If you guys have any idea about what is happening I would appreciate the help. Some mechanic told me it might be the throttle body having a problem and going bad but the weird thing it happens only when the car under no load. Vehicle listed above is the base model with MPI engine.

For the history of repairs:

Before 6 months ago.
New spark plugs.
New ignition coils.
New air filter.
New transmission fluid.
New engine oil with filter.

Thank you. : )
Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,740 POSTS
Hi,

The idle speed is controlled by the Electrical Throttle Control (ETC) System. ETC system is composed of the throttle motor to operate the throttle valve and the throttle position sensor to detect the opening angle of the throttle valve, the accelerator pedal position sensor to detect the accelerator pedal position and the one valve type throttle body. The ECM controls the throttle motor to provide the proper throttle valve opening angle for the target idle speed.

We are going to try something simple first. The ETC has a relearn procedure. Try this and let me know if it makes any difference:

ETC module learning procedure
When installing new ETC module or re-installing it, ETC module learning procedure must be performed.
Hold the ignition key or the start button at the IG ON position during 5 seconds.
Turn ignition switch off and then start the engine.

I attached two pics below showing location. If the relearn doesn't help, check the connection for damage, corrosion, and make sure it's tight.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for your reply and for helping. Well, I tried to reset the values for the throttle body (same as the learning process) but through the ECU using an OBD2 scanner with the resetting tab and nothing happened. I will go with the learning process but I think it won't go anywhere since I did it through the ECU numerous times but I will try it. Normally if there was any kind of a problem with the wires won't the ECU throw some codes? And by the way the connection where tested and it seems fine, the problem only happens when the car at park and no A/C, or at N and no A/C.
Other than that it seems fine. At park with A/C fine, at N with A/C fine, At drive with A/C or without fine it moves a bit but not as much between 500 and 800 max, but only with the first 2 cases this problem happens. Some mechanic told me it might be the throttle body is going bad and having some internal problem with the gears that's why it's happening. But if that's the case shouldn't be happening all the time not only with the first 2 cases? Other mechanic told me it might be the pedal sensor is going bad but shouldn't throw a code? Other told me it might be a vacuum leak but same thing won't be all the time not only with the first 2 cases? I am really lost here and I don't have a lot of experience in this so I appreciate any kind of help and support regarding my questions.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 10:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I would think, like you, a vacuum leak wouldn't care if it is in gear or not. The problem would always be there. Now, the ideas you mention could both be possible. The only think we can do is test.

I need to confirm if this has a turbo or not. I don't want to give you diagnostic info and it be the wrong info. So, let me know. I will see what I can dig up as far as testing both the APP and the throttle body. Interestingly, if there was an issue with the idle air control system, it should be setting a code. For example, a P0506 or a P0507.

Let me know.
Joe
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 6:34 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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Thank you very much Joe I really appreciate your reply and help.

It's not a turbo, it's 1.6l MPI engine, as far as I know there is 3 kinds of engines for this car
1.6l MPI
1.6l GDI
1.6l Turbo
Mine is
1.6l MPI DOHC
Yep that's the problem no codes at all, I even went as far as checking the ECU with 2 different OBD2 scanners
Chinese one paired with my phone and tourq app, and Maxidas from Autel both with zero codes and everything running perfectly even the short term fuel trim between -0.74 and +1.6
And the long trim between +1 and +2.6 that's what is spinning my head no codes at all, even if we considered the throttle body having an internal problem it should give a code since it's a electric throttle body and pedal also same thing and the weird thing that it only happens with the first 2 cases, one of my friends told me to take the duct cover and inspect the throttle body plate if it did move while the engine is revving he said it's the throttle body is going bad but I am not sure about this way of testing since maybethe ECU is sending a commend to the throttle body to open from a faulty sensor but at the other hand the ECU should show a code if any sensor is going bad. I don't know for sure but this is what I have so far.

Thank you : )
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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You are very welcome. I just hope I can help from here. LOL That can make things a bit tricky.

Have you tried scanning the can bus system? CAN stands for computer area network. Everything is tied together anymore. LOL Only a couple wires tie things together. If there is a failure somewhere within that, it should show up when scanning the CAN. Here is a video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

____________________________________

Here is the test procedure for the accelerator pedal position sensor. The attached pics are the electrical specs.

Lets start with that. Let me know what you find.

2014 Hyundai Veloster L4-1.6L
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Power-train Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Sensors and Switches -
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS

Inspection

1. Connect the GDS on the Data Link Connector (DLC).
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. Measure the output voltage of the APS 1 and 2 at C.T and W.O.T.

The two pics below show the voltages you should see when checking. Note CT stands for closed throttle. WOT is wide open throttle. I would think we are most interested in the CT to see if it is within spec and if there is any variation in voltage without moving the pedal.

Try this and let me know the results. If you have other questions, let me know.

Take care,
Joe

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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 7:40 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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Sorry for the late reply, I did a can bus scan zero across all the systems. I did the other scan for the APS or in my scanner it was app anyway for me the numbers seems to meet the same numbers in the pictures I got from you, and I did upload some videos and pictures for the results, the video starts with closed throttle and I press the pedal to max so the video always starts with zero pedal to the max and the results in the videos will be from CT to WOT please check them, but according to my checking it meats the required specs, and by the way it shows also the numbers for the throttle body not only for the pedal so this may also be helpful.
Thank you very much for trying to help me.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:03 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Everything there looks normal. By any chance, was the problem happening when you were scanning it?

Joe
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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Yes, it was happening, but under the scan I can't confirm because the scan was while the car off and the switch on as the instructions, but before the scan it was happening ( while the car were running ). As I understand this scan should be while the car off and the switch on because this scan will show the voltage that's what I was able to gather. Now from the numbers it seems that's the pedal is working within specs, but the throttle body I can't confirm because I don't know how much the voltage should be, in the videos I did upload it shows the voltage for the throttle body so if you have anyway of making sure it's within the specs please check it. If all within the specs the throttle body and the pedal is out of the way. From your experience what might be causing this problem.
I know it's hard to know since you can't check the car in person but I am trying my best to get you in the picture about what is happening and I am really thankful for your help and what your are doing I really appreciate it. : )

Thank you
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I attached a list of the TPS voltages for your review. I may have found a variation. Looking at the TPS2 readings with the APP @0, it shows.3. Take a look at pic 1. It shows it should be 4.5v. I am looking at the first pic you sent. Is that with the throttle plate closed?

If it is, I think the TPS is bad. However, I don't want to say replace it without a code to support it. Take a look through the specs I provided and let me know your thoughts.

Joe
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 7:45 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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You're right. The first picture with the plate closed CT.
The first video you can see it clear TPS1 and TPS 2 with CT and WOT the numbers don't match exactly can you check the first video, it starts with CT and after that WOT and CT and after that WOT, something I don't understand very will there was 2 types of TPS one just TPS and the other TPS 3.3V is there a difference? Or just another name for the sensor. Can you check it from your experience because for me the numbers seems different by a bit. Even TPS 1 starts 0.4 not 0.5 as the diagram and TPS 2 starts 2.9 not 4.5 CT and at WOT TPS 1 starts 2.8 not 4.41 and TPS 2 0.5 not 0.59
Should the numbers be exact or there's are room for error.

Thank you
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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It seems like both sensors are switched TPS 1 at the start close to the number from the diagram and TPS 2 is way of at CT, and at WOT TPS 1 is way of and TPS 2 is close to the diagram like they are switched or something.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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Also, what it doesn't make sense is if the throttle body is going bad and there's a problem with it why it does happen only with the first 2 cases I mentioned before why not all the time, and no codes?
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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Also what it doesn't make sense is if the throttle body is going bad and there's a problem with it why it does happen only with the first 2 cases I mentioned before why not all the time, and no codes.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Not the throttle body but rather the throttle position sensor. It is also referred to as the ETC, electronic throttle control module. It is replaceable and doesn't require complete replacement of the throttle body.

Your last question is my concern. The idea that there are no codes doesn't sit right with me, but the voltages are off. Yes, there is a tolerance for the voltages, but the TPS2 seems way off.

If I recall, you have already tried servicing the throttle body, correct?

I am going to ask Ken, the site owner for his opinion. Maybe he will have some insight that will help. If you see him jump in with questions or anything, don't be surprised.

Joe
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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Yes, I used a CRC throttle body cleaner and cleaned it but nothing after the cleaning same issue and something worth mentioning a year ago or so the throttle body was taking off and cleaned fully outside the engine from a mechanic as a full service for the car at the time and he took it out and opened the gears plastic cover and checked the gears and seal it back again and install it no problems at that time with the throttle body it was only as a full service for the car and after that also no problems only 3 weeks ago (now 4) started. At the other hand regarding the codes that's what is throwing me off no codes. Something about my car I had some issues before (long time ago) not a single time I had a CEL but when scanning with OBD2 I get some codes some like a bad crank case sensor but no CEL it's like Hyundai didn't put a CEL in my dashboard I only notice the issues with no CEL and after scanning I get there is a problem and a code, this time no CEL ( as usual ) and no code that's what is throwing me off. For the sensors as far as I know and I might be wrong in this specific model the sensors come as one unit with the throttle body I might be wrong but that's what I know.
I really appreciate your help Joe I truly do and I appreciate you asking Ken for his opinion regarding this weird problem and welling to answer as much questions. Just to get this issue out of the way.

Thank you : )
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I spoke with Ken. He confirmed what I thought. The TPS (ETC module) needs replaced. He said between the voltage issue and the idle fluctuation, that is the likely cause.

Here are the directions for replacement. The two attached pics correlate with the directions.

___________________________________________

Removal

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the battery negative (-) cable.
2. Remove the resonator and the air intake hose.
3. Disconnect the ETC module connector (A).

Pic 1

4. Remove the installation bolts, and then remove the ETC module (A) from the engine.

Pic 2

Installation

CAUTION:
- Install the component with the specified torques.
- Note that internal damage may occur when the component is dropped. If the component has been dropped, inspect before installing.

1. Install in the reverse order of removal.

Electronic throttle body Installation bolt:
9.8 - 11.8 N.M (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.M, 7.2 - 8.7 lb-ft)

Adjustment

ETC module learning procedure
When installing new ETC module or re-installing it, ETC module learning procedure must be performed.
1. Hold the ignition key or the start button at the IG ON position during 5 seconds.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF and then start the engine.

_______________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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Yes, I used a CRC throttle body cleaner and cleaned it but nothing after the cleaning same issue and something worth mentioning a year ago or so the throttle body was taking off and cleaned fully outside the engine from a mechanic as a full service for the car at the time and he took it out and opened the gears plastic cover and checked the gears and seal it back again and install it no problems at that time with the throttle body it was only as a full service for the car and after that also no problems only 3 weeks ago ( now 4 ) started. At the other hand regarding the codes that's what is throwing me off no codes. Something about my car I had some issues before ( long time ago ) not a single time I had a CEL but when scanning with OBD2 I get some codes some like a bad crank case sensor but no CEL it's like Hyundai didn't put a CEL in my dashboard I only notice the issues with no CEL and after scanning I get there is a problem and a code, this time no CEL ( as usual ) and no code that's what is throwing me off. For the sensors as far as I know and I might be wrong in this specific model the sensors come as one unit with the throttle body I might be wrong but that's what I know.
I really appreciate your help Joe I truly do and I appreciate you asking Ken for his opinion regarding this weird problem and welling to answer as much questions. Just to get this issue out of the way.

Thank you : )
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I just checked and you are correct. The directions I found seemed to indicate it could have been replaced without the entire TB. However, when I look up the part, it shows the entire unit.

You are very welcome of I helped in anyway. I don't like tossing parts at a vehicle without knowing for sure. However, that is the first thing he said as well. Although there are no codes, the voltages and irregular idle are indicators it is bad.

I wish I had a better answer.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 8:54 PM
Tiny
TIESTO870
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Thank you very much Joe and thanks for Ken to confirm it. I really appreciate the help and kindness and your time for helping me in this issue and you did your best since you didn't check the car in person.
As I suspected the throttle body and the sensors in this specific model comes as one unit so I need to replace the throttle body in order to replace the sensors, just to make sure because it's not cheap we are like 80% sure that's the problem is from the throttle body right? And just to make sure from your experience why it only happens when there is no loads on the engine and when there is a load it's back to normal is that the way it's supposed to be? And I guess and I am not sure regarding the codes that the numbers didn't go far I mean they are still within the limits that's why it didn't show a code I might be wrong.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 9:00 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I would say yes to being 80% sure. And your thoughts regarding codes makes sense. I trust Ken. He has been in business for many years. The only thing that could make me feel better is if you had a tech check it at a dealership. Having hands on helps. LOL

However, everything we discussed is pointing that direction. I just wish I could give you the 100% that's it. But I am confident it is.

Please let me know what you decide. Perhaps you could find a good used on from a salvage yard. You may find a car with low mileage that was in an accident. It's just a thought.

Take care and if you have a chance, let me know how things turn out for you. If you do replace it with a new or used one, you can use the relearn procedure that is in the above links.

Take good care of yourself.

Joe
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Thursday, July 30th, 2020 AT 9:30 PM

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