Transmission

The clunk and vibration suggest a collapsed or broken engine mount. The vibration can be due to misaligned half shafts and binding inner cv joints, and it can be due to the two metal brackets of a mount rubbing against each other when the rubber isolater is deteriorated. That will transmit normal engine vibration into the body where you will feel it. Look for one end of the engine sitting too low. Next, watch how much and how roughly the engine rocks when a helper shifts between reverse and drive with the engine running.

The jerking could be a secondary symptom, or it could be due to stress on an electrical connector. Finding the cause of the clunking should come first.

Don't fret over the half shafts. That misalignment I was referring to is caused when one end of the drive train sits too low. All that's needed to fix that is to replace the collapsed mount. That will restore proper engine height and half shaft alignment.

Well, we're making progress.

Jerking can have a lot of causes with different subtle symptoms. A rocking engine can tug on a wiring harness that causes an intermittent connection in a connector terminal and an intermittent cutout of the ignition system or injector. A failing sensor, mostly the MAP sensor, can be supplying an incorrect signal voltage resulting in wrong fuel metering calculations. As long as the signal voltage is within acceptable limits, it won't set a diagnostic fault code, but it usually doesn't take very long for the failure to become bad enough that the Engine Computer does detect a problem and sets a code.

With no fault code, you have to view live data on a scanner to see if something doesn't look right or can provide a clue. Most scanners have a "record" feature that allows you to record a few seconds of sensor data when the problem occurs. Since the data passes through the scanner's memory, the recording actually starts a few seconds before the button was pressed. The recording can be reviewed slowly later to see what changed when the symptoms occurred.

Jerking can also be caused by worn steering and suspension parts. Clues are a sudden pull to one side, or a change in the centering of the steering wheel. The people at tire and alignment shops are experts at finding the causes of those things.

Dandy. I'll be out of town until Saturday night at the nation's second largest old car show swap meet in Iola, WI. They have wireless there but it was seriously overloaded last year. Don't panic if you don't hear from me until possibly Sunday night.

The only other thing I can think of for the vibration is a worn inner cv joint housing. That will cause a miserable steering wheel wobble at lower speeds under acceleration. It will be aggravated by turning at the same time, as in when exiting a parking lot. Also, replacing the side engine mount can make the problem worse or it can show up for the first time because those mounts set the sideways position of the engine, and moving the engine to one side as little as 1/8" from where it was will cause the cv joint's rollers to run back and forth in a different area. Extremely tiny amounts of wear will cause the rollers to bind, then the half shafts will tug on the spindle and therefore the steering linkage.

Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner then check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.
https://https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator