Retractor box and wiring problems

I have a 1987 toyota supra 7mgte turbo model. It used to belong to a guy working for a toyota dealership. He took the turbo out and unplugged the turbo sensors. He also overhauled the motor and converted it to a manual trans. I don't know if any of this would cause him to change the wiring harness or any sensors under the hood or dash. My retractor control box keeps frying after I put a new one in. The reason for my whole curiousity for even replacing it is because when I got the car the headlights were conected to a toggle switch in the car. I also fried my brand new radio because of hooking up the back speakers, this also fried my dimmer switch on the dash pannel. Now, before I replaced the retractor control box My headlights were able to move up and down since they are flip up lights. My parking lamps even worked. The only way for the headlights to turn on was to flip up the toggle switch. After replacing the retractor control box I didn't need the toggle for the headlights to work. But after turning the headlights on my retractor control box fried. I don't kow if you guys know much about board chips or anything. But the box contains two relays to pop up the headlights and turn on the parking lamps. Without the box nothing works. What keeps frying in the box is a regulator chip that controls positive and negative current to power the relay for the headlights to turn on. I already troubleshooted the fuse-relay box under the hood and fuse box inside the car and could not find any bear wires. I need to know mainly what website I can go to to fix the wiring to the retractor control box so it will stop getting burnt up. I need a wiring diagram or something that will point me to wear the power source is for the box. I also need to know if it is the sensors in the retractor motors that go to the headlights or the headlights themselves throwing to much power into the control box.

I appreciate any answer that can point me in the right direction to fixing the problem.