Timing chain

You do not have to replace the chains if just the guides broke however, I would replace all the guides and tensioners while you are there. The only time you need to do the chains is when there is an issue with them. I attached the process below on this so that you can review this material.

Please review this and let us know if you need other info. Thanks

I have all new cassettes and tensioners and guides. I removed the rear already but im waiting for the bolts to come. I did not remove the roller followers. Is that critical? Also, while im waiting for the bolts can I remove the other chains or do i need to do one at a time?

Also the wear pattern on the cam lobes is wobbly. Do i need new lifters? And does that mean new cam as well?

If you are setting the timing up again then you can remove any chain you want as it will have to be reset when you do.

It is hard to see the close up of the cam lobes but they don't look wiped out. Basically if they still have a lobe and are not grooved then they are okay. The lifters will be flattened and that means they need to be replaced.

However, if you are there and want to replace them, then I would do both, cam and lifters.

The Haynes book says remove the rocker arms before touching timing chains or heads or anything. I already did the rear cassette, but I figured before I do anything else I should remove them. I have the special Ford tool, but some of the springs are already compressed so i can't compress them to remove the rocker arms. Can you tell me why that is and what to do about it?

Nevermind i figured it out. All but 1 lash adjuster came out. The top half of it came out but the bottom half is stuck. I was just going to leave it and take the cams out since I will be replacing those too. I'm trying to remove the font chin but i just can't seem to loosen the front jackshaft sprocket bolt.

Normally these are a little tight but they are only 33 ft lbs plus 90 degrees. So that would make it around 50-60 ft lbs. However, I suspect if this was apart before then someone put lock tight on the bolt which is making it hard to come out now.

you may have to heat the bolt to try and get it off.

I got it out. How do i get the bottom half of the lash adjuster out that's stuck in one of the heads? And do i need to take my short block to the machine shop when i take the heads? My car has a little over 200,000 miles on it so i should take the bottom too, right?

Can you get a picture of the adjuster so we can be clear with what you are dealing with?

It depends on what you are going to have them do at the machine shop. If you are going to pull the crank and pistons out then I would take it in and they can hone the bores but if you are just going to have them straight edge the deck then you could do that yourself.

So it is up to you with what you are going to have them do. To me it is worth it if you are completely pulling it down. If not then I would waste the money as they are not going to be able to do much with the pistons in the bores.

Crank and pistons are out. It's just the aluminum block now but the first shop i went to dropped my block onto the asphalt when they were unloading it from my friends car. so i took it somewhere else and this shop says the pistons look fine so they can reuse them and just hone and deck it and I would only have to get new rings or they can bore it too and i would have to get new pistons. Is it bad to reuse them since my engine has so many miles? Or would you recommend just getting new ones?

I would not think twice about reusing pistons if you have them out of the engine and they look fine. The thing that must be replaced are the bearings and rings so if they say they are fine, then I would not waste the money.

I would reuse them and not give it a second thought.

Well, now they're saying they're bad and that i need new heads because water corroded them.

Clearly there are just a couple pictures but those pistons look like they can be cleaned as that carbon will come off and corrosion can be cleaned as well.

Pistons, heads, valves need to be replaced if they make contact with each other, most all other issues can be cleaned up.

However, at this point, I would only do what you are comfortable with. The reason is, it is far better to replace it with new parts and feel like you may have over repaired it then not do it and live in fear you made the wrong decision. The fact is, it is all taken apart right now so if you would feel better replacing them, then I would do it.

Okay, thank you for all of your help.

You are welcome. Please let us know how this turns out. Thanks for the updates and the detailed info as you walk through this. I am sure it will benefit others in the future that visit this page. Thanks