Theft deterrent system activated after battery terminals were incorrectly installed

If you mean the battery was connected wrong first, you likely blew at least a fuse or two. I would start by taking a test light connected to good ground and run it across all the fuses in the under-hood fuse block. https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse
Then check the fuses in the interior fuse box. If none of them are blown, then you will need to dig farther into the system to find out which module was hit by the reverse voltage spike and damaged. To help get more information go through the car and note everything that doesn't work and post those in your next reply. Thank you.

That is what I unfortunately expected you to find. The problem is that with all the electronics in modern vehicles they still have a very poor protection system in the event of any reverse polarity events. It makes it worse because you could park five identical year make and model cars side by side and each one would have different failures after the event. What we need to do is start at the battery and test the systems one by one. The advantage is that many of the fuses rely on power from other fuses, so say the radio, seats, door locks, and heater blower all lack power, they may each have a fuse, but those fuses all get power from a single fuse, so if that fuse lacks power you find what feeds it and start there. This is better than many earlier cars that might have had 5 fuses in the entire car.

So, what were the fuses inside that had power? Then go to the fuse box under the hood and note which ones there have power. Attached is the service info on the various fuses, the first two are the box under the hood, the second two are the ones in the dash.
Now as you have some power in the car it's sort of safe to thing the main fuse link is okay.
However, I would disconnect the power feed on the alternator to see if it has an issue first. Then use the test light on each fuse, print out the sheets and mark them as you test. I'm hoping you discover that the larger fuses under the hood lack power on the feed side as that would say that the fuse box itself is the likely failure item. That would save a lot more work. However, it would also depend on what other systems were active at the time.

That could be a major part of it. Before you install it though you might want to pull the alternator and have it tested. Reverse voltage into it could damage the diode bridge or windings and cause it to short out, at best it destroys the fuse again.