Steering wheel locked, ignition key will not turn?

Tiny
JONEESQX4
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 INFINITI QX4
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
This is a car I just bought. It has an aftermarket "remote start" system installed. The remote start will start the engine, but the key will not turn in the ignition cylinder. They key (not an original factory "transponder/chip key") has been working fine, but suddenly the key would go in, but would not turn. The aftermarket remote was installed with what is called a "key wrap" - the key or the chip from the original factory key was placed somewhere on the vehicle in order for the remote to function.

I don't know if I somehow triggered the Nissan Anti-Theft System (could this lock the steering wheel?) Or the Infinity Immobilizer system? Or what?

I have tried turning the steering wheel while turning the key (like on "normal" cars where the steering wheel locks), but no luck.

I had to have the car towed home, and here it sits.

Any help greatly appreciated.
Thursday, January 10th, 2019 AT 9:51 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

My first thought would be a failed ignition cylinder as the key doesn't turn at all. The NATS system only prevents the engine from running if the attempt is made to start the engine with the wrong key. It won't prevent the lock from turning. I will say I do not like that type of remote start because it eliminates all of the OEM security because of the chip inside the car (likely right near the factory ignition switch so the transponder will function) which makes any key that turns the switch into a valid key, even if it's a screwdriver that forces it to turn.

The entire unit is replaced with a new one, the lock cylinder isn't a replaceable part.
Nissan/Infinity # 487006J326.
Replacement isn't that hard. You remove the top and bottom plastic covers on the steering column. Then use a sharp punch or chisel to break the tamper screws loose. Disconnect the electrical connectors and remove the old switch. Install the new switch, tighten the screws until the heads break off. Reconnect the electrical parts. Now you may need to get new non-transponder keys made to keep the remote start as the new switch will also have new transponder keys that may interfere with it.
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Thursday, January 10th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
JONEESQX4
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Steve, thank you for the quick and thorough answer, that was very kind of you. You obviously know what you're talking about. Replacement of the complete lock cylinder ($500.00) plus new keys will be my last resort. Great point about the NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) system not being the problem, I hadn't figured that part out. I'm trying to understand the Infinity Vehicle Immobilizer System also, to see if that might lock the steering wheel. There is a box under the dash that (I think) controls the Immobilizer, or may even lock the steering wheel.

Also, there are several types of "reset" codes I'm trying to learn about. An example would be putting the key in the drivers' door and holding it left/right for certain amount of time or certain sequence. Another method is insert the key into the ignition six times within ten seconds. Etc. Also, removing and reinstalling the battery may reset some electronics on the car.

So very confusing!

This is a a fantastic web site! I'll keep posting what I've found or tried in hopes it may help someone else, and gladly accept any additional ideas others may have.
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Thursday, January 10th, 2019 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
None of those resets will help with the key issue. If you put the key in and it doesn't turn the interior of the lock is the only place that can cause that. Also being that you have the remote start with the transponder key chip that works, none of them will do anything as that makes the system think that the correct key is already in the car and that overrides everything else. As for the part, you can get them cheaper. Oh, the Infinity system is just NATS by another name. Works the same way. When a key is inserted into the ignition, the PCM and security module send out a pulse that wakes up and powers that chip. If the chip is not recognized by either one the NATS system shuts of power to the fuel and ignition systems. However an easy way to tell it isn't causing your problem is that the remote start works and the engine runs. If it was anything to do with NATS it wouldn't run.

The steering lock is nothing more than a chunk of metal that rises up into a notch on the steering shaft right in the key housing. It isn't controlled by anything other than the key turning in the cylinder to lower it. On the attached image, the circled part is the steering lock.
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Thursday, January 10th, 2019 AT 4:02 PM
Tiny
JONEESQX4
  • MEMBER
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Steve; Wow, I'm impressed with your knowledge of this system! I feel guilty asking more questions and taking up your time. Do you have a fee or any way to donate to the web site?
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Friday, January 11th, 2019 AT 1:38 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Ask away, we're here to assist people with their automotive issues.
No real trick to knowing the system, pretty much all of the systems used these days work the same way. Some vehicles have just ignition shut off, others just fuel. Some do both. Then if it has a true alarm system there are other items added in for content protection. Like door switches, interior sensors like IR, sonic or radar to detect someone breaking in. Then you just need to know which parts are in the system on the make/model you're looking at.
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Friday, January 11th, 2019 AT 4:41 AM
Tiny
JONEESQX4
  • MEMBER
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Thank you sir! Please, allow me to explain; if we weren't retired/fixed income, I would just have it towed to the dealer, say fix it, and write the check, but right now, that's not possible.

My hope is just get the vehicle driveable and hopefully make a proper repair at a later date.
Security is of no concern, we live out in "the sticks".
I'm not concerned with re-sale value or keeping the vehicle original.

They say there's no stupid questions, but:
1. Crazy idea, but could I take the lock cylinder out and remove/cut off that "steering wheel lock/piece of metal" as shown in your diagram?
2. Is there any other way to just defeat the steering wheel lock?
3. Could I somehow rig a simple start button and bypass the ignition cylinder?
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Friday, January 11th, 2019 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Your initial issue was that the key would not turn in the cylinder correct? Or is it that you can turn the key but then the steering wheel will not turn?
If it's the first one there is no option other than replacement of the entire switch assembly. The ignition switch does more than just starting the engine. It also selects the power routing for the various systems on the vehicle depending on the position of the switch. In off it shuts off power to things like the transmission controller, ABS, the engine controller and more. The remote start will let the engine start but will not power the rest of the system. If it's installed correctly it will even shut the engine off if you move the shift lever out of park without the key being turned to run.

Now if the issue is that the key itself does turn and you can start the engine with it but the steering wheel stays locked. The answer then becomes "maybe" As it will depend on which part is causing the failure. If the lock mechanism broke you might be able to remove it and get the wheel to turn, however it would really depend on what failed and where.

As for the price of the part, there are other sources than a dealer as that switch was used on a lot of Nissan and Infinity vehicles and the QX4 is basically a fully optioned Pathfinder with a nicer fit and finish. As such it shares a lot of parts with them. The part number crosses to a Airtex/Wells 1S6107 switch that runs under $200.00 or even less if you bought it online.

There was also a recall # 00V410000 on those ignition switches in 2000, you might want to see if yours was ever repaired. If you call Infinity/Nissan at 1-800-662-6200, give them your VIN and ask them if it was ever done. Not sure if they would still do anything after 18 years but it's a free call. Just don't mention the remote start as they might say you are on your own irregardless of the actual status of the recall.

Another option that could work would be to have an automotive locksmith look at it. If it's something in the cylinder at fault they might be able to repair it. But it would depend on what the issue is.
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Friday, January 11th, 2019 AT 11:50 AM
Tiny
JONEESQX4
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Steve - Again, thank you for the fantastic information! I will certainly buy the lock cylinder at that price, but I have one more issue: I called tech help at WVE/Airtech (Dave) to verify the 1S6107 part number (I didn't want to pester you again). He said the part # was indeed for the Pathfinder (and Maxima?), But could not cross-reference to the QX4. Not sure where I found it, but I had a Nissan Part # 487006J386. He said he showed cross-reference to J387 and J388, but not J386!
I hate to ask you this question Steve, but are you confident the 1S6107 will work in the QX4? If so, I'll order it, problem solved. Thanks.
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Friday, January 11th, 2019 AT 1:53 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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The # 487006J386 shows as a number for the QX4 in alldata. But they have been wrong before.
Best thing would be to call an infinity/nissan dealer with your VIN and have the parts guy look it up just to be sure of the current part replacement.

The parts listing I have shows
48700-6J385 fitting the QX4 from 12/98-1/01
But it also shows that it replaces 48700-6J387 and 48700-6J386
I suspect that is because the 48700-6J386 also shows as a discontinued part and the others are ones that fit. It may even be the difference is simply that the keys have different insignia's which would change the part number. Hard to say for 100% without having the Nissan parts data.
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Friday, January 11th, 2019 AT 2:23 PM
Tiny
JONEESQX4
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
This is an update on my original "locked steering wheel, key will not turn, but I can remove and insert the key" problem:

We ended up not replacing the entire ignition switch assembly, and only replacing the electrical switch ($40.00 to $50.00). The primary reason for not replacing the entire assembly was cost. The best price I could find for the actual 2000 Infinity QX4 switch was $340.00.

After seeing the ignition assembly and how it works, I'm convinced Steve W. Is right and other Nissan/non-Infinity (Infinity = $$$) switches would work (at half the price), but replacing the switch would still involve, as Steve W. Explained, a trip to the dealer to have new keys and/or reprogramming.

We removed the ignition cylinder following Steve W.'s directions (aided by a fantastic YouTube video called "How to fix a broken ignition lock/switch-steering column type). This is a very detailed well-done 24 minute video with many great tips on this type of ignition lock system. The same mechanic has another 11 minute video titled "How to Remove Ignition Key Lock Tumbler/Cylinder & Electrical Switch from Steering Column" which details the removal of this type of ignition cylinder.

After removing the entire Ignition Cylinder, I found that the key now turned freely in the lock cylinder and the spring activated "steering wheel lock" "button" (or hunk of metal) as Steve W. Called it (See the image Steve posted above) worked fine.

I oiled the spring "button" lightly with machine oil and added white lithium grease. I added powdered graphite to the key cylinder.

The new electrical switch seemed more solid than the old one. The key worked better than with the old electrical switch. Failing electrical switches are a known caused of many problems including slow/hard/no start issues. I consider replacing the electrical switch a "no brainer" if you remove your entire ignition assembly - just unplug the old switch and plug in the new one.

We went to the hardware store and sized the bolts to replace the "knock off head" bolts that are normally used to install the ignition lock cylinder. We selected replacement bolts with "allan" heads so we could crank the bolts tight.

After removing the ignition assembly and replacing it, I'm convinced that the steering wheelkey lock problem that started this repair thread was caused by a common combination of circumstances. My wife parked the vehicle with one wheel slightly up on a rounded curb, and then we tried forcing the steering wheel while turning the key. This resulted in the "steering wheel lock button" getting jammed up in the steering wheel slot.
The only way to release this "jam" was remove the ignition lock cylinder.

NOTE: We did notice that when we started to removed the ignition lock cylinder, that there was a small amount of "play" and the cylinder wasn't locked on as tight as it could be.
This might possible have caused the original problem by allowing the steering wheel lock button to seize up inside the steering column.

Another fix/option I considered but did not opt for was locking the steering wheel lock "button" in the down position where it could not possible lock the wheel. If this extreme hard steering wheel lock situation occurs a second time, I would try this before spending the several hundreds of dollars for a new ignition switch, new keys and dealer reprogramming.

About STEVE W. And 2CarPros: I can't stress enough how crucial Steve's expert analysis of the problem, explanation of the complicated security systems, and repair suggestions helped solve this problem. He truly deserves the title "EXPERT"!

I would still be trying to figure out how the NATS security system or the Infinity Immobilizer system was causing the problem. When the actual problem had nothing to do with these two security systems!

Thank you! If anyone wants any further information, please let me know.
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Saturday, January 19th, 2019 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
You are very welcome. Glad to hear you figured it all out. I have replaced a few of those security screws with other styles. If you still have the old ignition switch could you try turning it with a tool? I'm wondering if the switch itself failed internally and locked it in place.
Please return anytime with your automotive questions. We are here to help.
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Saturday, January 19th, 2019 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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STEVE W. Is one of our best! Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.
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Saturday, January 19th, 2019 AT 5:44 PM
Tiny
JONEESQX4
  • MEMBER
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Steve: Yes, the old electrical switch did operate in all positions, even the "start" position and spring-returned to the "on" position. I tried it in the ignition cylinder and by itself with a screwdriver. I really don't think the old switch contributed to the "locked steering wheel" issue, but it did appear to be failing, as it didn't seem to "click" into on/off/accessories like the new one did. As mentioned above (and as you know), there are several possible electrical issues that can be caused by a faulty/failing electrical switch.

I'm convinced the original locked steering wheel issue was one or a combination of:
1. Tire up slightly on curb when parked.
2. Yanking too hard on the steering wheel to release/turn the key.
3. Slightly loose ignition lock cylinder - there was a very slight movement of the cylinder before we removed it.
Some combination of these three issues, or to me, most likely, the slight movement of the ignition cylinder (when under pressure) allowed the metal button/steering wheel lock mechanism to jam up inside the steering wheel notch. Once it was tightly jammed, there was no way the key could turn.
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Sunday, January 20th, 2019 AT 10:50 AM
Tiny
JONEESQX4
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
KEN - ADMIN:
Sir, you have a fantastic service and web site! I already planned on contacting 2carpros ADMIN to share my thanks to you and offer my highest praise for Steve W. His knowledge is outstanding obviously, but it was his willingness to research and spend a lot of time on a very difficult issue that was so pleasantly surprising. It was amazing to me that he spent that much time sincerely trying to help get our car repaired. Also, his patience and kindness in working through this issue was a rare treat. Steve generously shared his expertise and time, what more could anyone ask for?

I know from experience, there is no comparison between 2carpros and other on-line automotive help services.

2carpros. Com is a great find for people like myself, family and neighbors who are not "every three years" new car buyers, or have lots of expendable income. Professional vehicle repairs and parts are getting constantly more expensive. 2carpros is the perfect solution for the millions of people like us.

"Tell a friend"? Ha ha, already have sir! I immediately told my nephew who is constantly trying to maintain and improve his three vehicles. My neighbors are always trying to keep their older vehicles road-worthy, so I'm already spreading the good word about 2carpros. Com and my new hero, Steve W.

I'm on a lot of vehicle websites, researching, blogging and trying to be of help where I can. You can bet good money that I'll be promoting 2carpros!

Thank you again, Ken,
Continued success!
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Sunday, January 20th, 2019 AT 11:43 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Thank you! :)
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Monday, January 21st, 2019 AT 10:54 AM

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