Shut off while driving, wire hanging that goes to the starter solenoid

Tiny
MS.MILLAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 CHEVROLET 3500
  • 7.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,000 MILES
One day the truck shut off while driving. I was in the habit of disconnecting the battery after driving due to the fuel pump running all night and draining my battery. So when the truck shut off I assumed the fuel pump. I replaced fuel pump, distributor had a broken washer she I replaced that too, coil, MAP, starting relay. Tried to start it, no start. Primed the carburetor, started like a champ, then shut off. I noticed the starting solenoid wires aren't connected. One wire goes directly to the battery. The other wire loops around, has another red wired piggy backed, but the wire just goes down along the frame to the back of the truck by the spare tire and ends. It's attached to nothing. The crude drawing I made might help. There are other wires on the starter I just didn't draw them all in. The truck is a lawn ornament at this point. I really need help. I believe the starter solenoid wire should go to the starter. Do I have to pull the starter to access the place it would go? Will that make the fuel pump run? Is there any way to do this without pulling down the starter?
Thursday, April 25th, 2019 AT 7:37 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi Ms. Millar,

When you turn the key, I assume the starter engages and turns because you said the truck started when you primed the "carburetor". If this is the case, whatever those wires are, they are not effecting the operation of the starter. However, if they do not connect to anything then I would just remove them completely.

As it sits today, if you spray starter fluid down the intake, does it start? If so, you have a fuel delivery issue. This means you are not getting fuel to the throttle body. By the way, I show this vehicle having a throttle body and fuel injectors which means it is not a carburetor vehicle. The throttle bodies look like carburetors sometimes but they operate much different.

I would start with hooking a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and seeing what the pressure is. If you have low pressure then start disconnecting the fuel supply line and run a rubber fuel line into a bucket and see where you get fuel. Once you get fuel then you past your blockage. Other way is to unhook the line at the rail, and the filter and blow air through it. If none passes then you have a blockage. Do this all the way back to the tank.

If no blockage/restriction is found then you have an issue with the fuel pump not delivering fuel. However, you said this was new so assuming everything is hooked up and your relay and fuse are okay, this should not be your issue.

Let me know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks
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Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 12:26 PM
Tiny
MS.MILLAR
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hi Kasekenny1. Thank you so much for your time. I apologize for the delay in response. I've been working on the truck while tending my real job and I just couldn't get back to you. Anyways, yes, it is a fuel injected system. I used the term carburetor loosely. Here's where I'm at with it. It would not start anything because it was not getting fuel. I went through all the fuses. There was one blown for the dome light. I pulled it and left it out for now. I spray carburetor fluid and or dumped gas into the throttle body and it would start great. Nothing I did would invoke the fuel pump even though it was brand new. So, I forced it to start. I ran a wire directly from the starter solenoid (starter solenoid tested fine) constant hot right to the fuel pump wire. I bought a new battery. As soon as I hooked up the new battery, the fuel pump hummed into action and fuel came up the rail as it should to the throttle body. I started the truck and it ran just fine until I got home. I could smell a light odor of something burning, visual inspection showed absolutely nothing under the dash and the fuse panel. I shut it off and it wouldn't start up again. The brand new battery was completely dead! Not only was the battery dead, but it was ruined! It will not jump start and it will not take a charge of any sort. It's ruined. Thinking the alternator is the only component that could harm the battery like this so severely, I took the alternator off and took it in to be tested. The test results came back with: Amp diode: Passed, Regulator: Passed, Rectifier: Passed. SO, I put the alternator back in. Replaced the starter which had badly cracked wires that I replaced. Now I have to go down to the city to get a new battery, but in the mean time I tried jump starting the truck, nothing, completely dead. But I put one of those carry along jump starters on it and the fuel pump kicked in, because I still had it wired, but that carry along jumper cannot turn over an engine of this size. I just thought it was odd that when I hooked up my car to jump start the truck the fuel pump did not turn on, only when I put the carry along jumper on did it activate. This truck has me going in circles. The burning was probably because I forced the fuel pump to run. But I cannot for the life of me figure out what was burning. Maybe my imagination. If the fuel pump started when I wired it directly to the battery that means the ground wire for it is fine, right? But if I connect the fuel relay, and remove the direct battery to fuel pump line I put in the fuel pump will not work. Today I cleaned the fuel relay screws (since it is grounded by the mounting) and the fuel solenoid screws. I don't know what to do next.
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Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 AT 1:05 PM
Tiny
MS.MILLAR
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I'm sorry that was so lengthy! Here's a summary. If the fuel relay is connected the fuel pump won't work. If I disconnect the fuel relay and run a wire directly from it (attached to the orange always hot wire on fuel relay) the truck starts and runs, but ruined the battery and I could smell an odor of something burning.
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Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 AT 1:08 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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I just want to make sure we are on the same page. Have you replaced the relay? I am sure you have but I just don't see it listed. Also, there is a fuel pump fuse after the relay. I included the wiring diagram so you can follow it.

If it is new then you will want to run through testing the relay and circuitry.

Here is a guide that will run you through it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Clearly, you have something going on here with the relay because if the pump works with 12 volts to it then it is either your relay or the wiring.
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Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 AT 6:05 PM

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