Stalls when pushing the gas pedal/ putting in gear?

Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 CHEVROLET LUMINA
  • 3.1L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 57,000 MILES
Had a misfire problem. Didn’t drive it for long with this problem. 526341 firing order. Found 1 and 4 no spark. Changed coils and ICM. Idles fine now but stalls when starting off unless I give it a good push/feathering of the pedal. Loss of all power unless I open it up then it goes. Stalls when I try to accelerate or put in gear. Battery going dead. Not charging then have to boost. Boost then put in gear stalls.
Wednesday, February 7th, 2024 AT 8:34 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Hi,

If the battery is weak and not being recharged, that can be the cause of all the problems. Do me a favor. We need to start at square one, so I need to know if the alternator is working. Here is a link that explains how to test it.

The procedure is very simple and only requires a voltmeter or multimeter. Try this and let me know the results.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Let me know what you find.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, February 8th, 2024 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I checked the alternator. It’s working fine and charging. Positive on alternator was loose. I cleaned the EGR and at first it would stay running at idle. Still stalling when driving and pressing the gas.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, February 8th, 2024 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 50,067 POSTS
If the alternator is not charging or throwing AC voltage it will cause this problem.

Here is a guide to help you test the alternator and instructions on how to change it out:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

You can try unplugging the alternator as well to see if the problem goes away. Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response to the problem so we can see what's going on.
Image (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, February 8th, 2024 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Alternator and battery are okay.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 12:29 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I should’ve left out the alternator problem. I found the connection output loose. The actual problem is stalling when pressing the accelerator. I’ve narrowed it down to EGR or TPS. Like I said earlier I removed the EGR and tried to clean it best I can. I tried starting afterwards and it died right away. After several starts it idled. Then it starts dying at higher rpm. That was much different than before. Maybe I got the solenoids mixed up at changed the position of the failing solenoid. . Vehicle has 57000 km. Not very much. So, my next step is to check the EGR solenoids from what I’m reading and check the TPS. I recently had to change the ICM because 1 and 4 had no spark. Is it possible that shorting could cause this domino effect in other electrical parts? Anyhow I’m getting closer to solving this. Any info is greatly appreciated and helpful.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 1:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Hi,

We need clarification. You indicated, " Battery going dead. Not charging then have to boost." What was done to confirm both were good? I ask because the alternator may be good, but if there is a wiring issue, it won't charge the battery. If it is going dead, something is causing it, and that can be the cause of the drivability issue.

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
The output off the alternator was loose. I recently had the entire intake off for gasket replacement. I must have forgotten to tighten it. I checked voltage with multimeter it was about 14.5. So, the alternator was good, and battery is now holding a charge.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 1:29 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Hi,

That's happened to me in the past as well. Since you had the intake off, have you checked to make sure there are no engine vacuum leaks? Is the air intake tube fully seated and tight at the throttle body?

Have you scanned for diagnostic trouble codes?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

Let me know. Understand, not being there with you may cause me to ask overlapping questions unintentionally. So, bear with me. LOL

Take care,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 2:02 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
No problem. Engine was smoke tested. All good. I did scan. Right after I replaced the ICM. 1 and 4 weren’t firing. Replaced coils also. The code originally was 33 MAP sensor. Change ICM. Code 45. Rich exhaust detected. Reset ECM. Now no codes. So, at this point it can be fuel or emissions. Assuming fuel was ok. I checked EGR. Pulled, cleaned best I could. Took it apart. Brake clean and brass brush. Put it back. Tried it and at first wouldn’t start. After several tries and pushing the pedal to the floor. Got it to idle. I’m thinking sticky EGR at this point. It’s not giving me a ICM code, so I ordered a new EGR. I can take it off and check if any of the ohms are out of whack. But I just ordered one anyway. I might try to reset the tos sensor. Idk. What are your thoughts?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 2:53 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Hi,

If cylinders 1 and 4 ignition spark is resolved, there is one that stood out to me. You indicated holding the throttle open to make it start. That procedure is to clear a flooded engine.

Have you checked the fuel pressure? If you pull the vacuum hose off the regulator, is there any evidence of fuel in the hose? Also, is there any chance you may have mixed up the inlet and outlet lines at the regulator? See pic below. Number 60 is the inlet and 61 is the outlet.

I have a blue arrow pointing to where the vacuum hose connects. Check that for evidence of fuel. If everything checks good, I suggest checking the fuel pressure.

Let me know your thoughts.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
Image (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 4:43 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I’ll check for any fuel in that hose. As for mixing the lines up, I made sure to paint mark one of the connections to make sure that didn’t happen. I will check the fuel pressure. I will let you know what I find.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 5:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Hi,

Sounds like a plan. I look forward to hearing from you.

Take care,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Hi Joe,

Fuel pressure is good. 45 PSI key on. Drops to about 38-39 when idling.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 10th, 2024 AT 12:32 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I checked the vacuum on the regulator also and it was dry.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 10th, 2024 AT 12:33 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Hi,

That is perfect, so fuel isn't the issue. By chance, did you do anything with the manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP)?

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 10th, 2024 AT 4:48 PM
Tiny
ELVIN BOUCHARD
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Yes, I looked up how to test the MAP sensor back probed and all the voltage were within the specs for each wire. It gave a 33 code but I’m pretty sure it was due to the ICM being bad 1 and 4 had no spark at the coil. I think the map sensed a problem due to the unused gas/air in those chamber causing a map code. I don’t know just trying to connect the dots between the 33 code and the misfire. I replaced the ICM and coils. Started it up and the misfire was gone. Then it threw a 45. Rich! Then I thought maybe it’s the ECM needing to relearn all 6 firing normally. Disconnected the battery, waited a bit. Put it back. Started and no codes. Then test drove it. Started stalling. Before I even left the driveway. Stepping on the pedal just slightly causes a stall. Only does that when it’s warm. Did some more digging and pointed toward EGR. Took that off and cleaned it. Put it back. Started then immediately stalled. I’m thinking it’s the EGR at this point. Actually I’d like to get ride if it altogether but that would be illegal.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 10th, 2024 AT 6:01 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Engine Stall At Idle Content

Engine Stalls After Dead or New Battery
GUIDE
Engine Stalls After Dead or New Battery
So you in­stalled a new bat­tery and now the en­gine stalls? You have done noth­ing wrong be­cause be­lieve it or not this is nor­mal. The en­gine com­puter has a learn­ing cy­cle...
VIEW MORE