Stalls when pushing the gas pedal/ putting in gear?

I checked the alternator. It’s working fine and charging. Positive on alternator was loose. I cleaned the EGR and at first it would stay running at idle. Still stalling when driving and pressing the gas.

Alternator and battery are okay.

I should’ve left out the alternator problem. I found the connection output loose. The actual problem is stalling when pressing the accelerator. I’ve narrowed it down to EGR or TPS. Like I said earlier I removed the EGR and tried to clean it best I can. I tried starting afterwards and it died right away. After several starts it idled. Then it starts dying at higher rpm. That was much different than before. Maybe I got the solenoids mixed up at changed the position of the failing solenoid. . Vehicle has 57000 km. Not very much. So, my next step is to check the EGR solenoids from what I’m reading and check the TPS. I recently had to change the ICM because 1 and 4 had no spark. Is it possible that shorting could cause this domino effect in other electrical parts? Anyhow I’m getting closer to solving this. Any info is greatly appreciated and helpful.

The output off the alternator was loose. I recently had the entire intake off for gasket replacement. I must have forgotten to tighten it. I checked voltage with multimeter it was about 14.5. So, the alternator was good, and battery is now holding a charge.

No problem. Engine was smoke tested. All good. I did scan. Right after I replaced the ICM. 1 and 4 weren’t firing. Replaced coils also. The code originally was 33 MAP sensor. Change ICM. Code 45. Rich exhaust detected. Reset ECM. Now no codes. So, at this point it can be fuel or emissions. Assuming fuel was ok. I checked EGR. Pulled, cleaned best I could. Took it apart. Brake clean and brass brush. Put it back. Tried it and at first wouldn’t start. After several tries and pushing the pedal to the floor. Got it to idle. I’m thinking sticky EGR at this point. It’s not giving me a ICM code, so I ordered a new EGR. I can take it off and check if any of the ohms are out of whack. But I just ordered one anyway. I might try to reset the tos sensor. Idk. What are your thoughts?

I’ll check for any fuel in that hose. As for mixing the lines up, I made sure to paint mark one of the connections to make sure that didn’t happen. I will check the fuel pressure. I will let you know what I find.

Hi Joe,

Fuel pressure is good. 45 PSI key on. Drops to about 38-39 when idling.

I checked the vacuum on the regulator also and it was dry.

Yes, I looked up how to test the MAP sensor back probed and all the voltage were within the specs for each wire. It gave a 33 code but I’m pretty sure it was due to the ICM being bad 1 and 4 had no spark at the coil. I think the map sensed a problem due to the unused gas/air in those chamber causing a map code. I don’t know just trying to connect the dots between the 33 code and the misfire. I replaced the ICM and coils. Started it up and the misfire was gone. Then it threw a 45. Rich! Then I thought maybe it’s the ECM needing to relearn all 6 firing normally. Disconnected the battery, waited a bit. Put it back. Started and no codes. Then test drove it. Started stalling. Before I even left the driveway. Stepping on the pedal just slightly causes a stall. Only does that when it’s warm. Did some more digging and pointed toward EGR. Took that off and cleaned it. Put it back. Started then immediately stalled. I’m thinking it’s the EGR at this point. Actually I’d like to get ride if it altogether but that would be illegal.