Intermittent stalling at idle when warmed up

Tiny
ANGIE POWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 JEEP LIBERTY
  • 3.7L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
I drive approx 10 minutes to work and about the time I get to a parking space it stalls. It doesn't restart at this point. After work (10 hours) it starts right up and gets me home.
Check engine light doesn't come on or any other warning lights. It isn't all the time, just here and there. I took it to the shop to get a diagnostic and they said it does have a small intake leak but they aren't confident that this is the issue as they couldn't get it to stall.
Today after work I went to the store, was in there maybe 10 minutes. It started and stalled but finally started in neutral and I was able to drive home.
Help please!
Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

It sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor. When they get hot, they can fail. Take a look at these links:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

If you feel these links mirror what you are experiencing, here is a link that shows how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle:

__________________________________________

2003 Jeep Truck Liberty 2WD V6-3.7L VIN K
Procedures
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Crankshaft Position Sensor Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
REMOVAL

Fig.8 CKP - 3.7L

pic 1

The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is mounted into the right rear side of the cylinder block. It is positioned and bolted into a machined hole.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
3. Remove sensor mounting bolt.
4. Carefully remove sensor from cylinder block in a rocking and twisting action.
5. Check condition of sensor O-ring.

INSTALLATION
1. Clean out machined hole in engine block.
2. Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor O-ring.
3. Install sensor into engine block with a slight rocking and twisting action.

CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt, be sure sensor is completely flush to cylinder block. If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor mounting tang may result.

4. Install mounting bolt and tighten to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Connect electrical connector to sensor.
6. Lower vehicle.

______________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Joe
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2019 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
ANGIE POWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Since asking this question it now stalls everytime I drive it. I also realized yesturday I am losing coolant but there is no puddle or sign of where this is going. It appears to be a small leak as a week ago it was fine. I had someone tell me it is likely that the air intake manifold gasket needs replaced.
Yesturday I was able to keep it running at stop lights as long as I put it in neutral but once I got it in park at home it died again.
Just making sure here before I start messing with it.
Thank you in advance
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2019 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Welcome back:

Honestly, in most cases the engine light would come on. However, there are conditions related to a bad crankshaft sensor that will prevent it from turning on. The best thing to do is this. If you have a live data scanner, check to see if there is an RPM signal when it won't start. Or, check to see if there is spark to the plugs when this happens.

If there is no spark or no rpm signal, my first suspect would be the sensor I mentioned.

Here is a link that explains how to check for spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Now, the coolant issue is a concern. Also, if the intake is leaking, you should be able to see it along where it mounts to the engine. Also, if it has a rough idle there could be a vacuum leak. Check that too,

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

The coolant usage could also be related to a head gasket issue. Take a look through this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Here are a few links to help with finding the leak,

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-leak-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

Let me know if any of this helps.

Joe

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Wednesday, September 25th, 2019 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
ANGIE POWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thank you, it will be a couple days before I can get to this but let you know how it goes!
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Welcome back:

You are very welcome. Let me know the results or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2019 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
ANGIE POWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
How important is the torque for this sensor bolt? I'm having one heck of a time getting a torque wrench up in there.
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Sunday, September 29th, 2019 AT 12:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Welcome back:

Sorry for the delay. I had to make an unexpected trip this weekend.

Just make sure it is tight. If it isn't exactly 21 ft/lbs don't worry.

Joe
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Sunday, September 29th, 2019 AT 4:59 PM
Tiny
ANGIE POWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thank you! It's all good, I so appreciate your help! It was the crankshaft position sensor! Got it changed yesturday and not even a slight hesitation since!
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Monday, September 30th, 2019 AT 2:37 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Welcome back:

You are very welcome. I'm glad it's going for you. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, September 30th, 2019 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
ANGIE POWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
So yesterday on my way home from work my vehicle stalled again just like before. This was the first time since I changed the crankshaft sensor. This morning it seems to be fine but that is how all of this started a couple weeks before I posted on here. I have read that most change the camshaft sensor at the same time. Could that need to be done or is there a reason the crankshaft sensor could go bad in two weeks time? I actually have tomorrow off work so I have time to work on this tonight/tomorrow before things get worse again. Any help on this is greatly appreciated!
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Saturday, October 12th, 2019 AT 2:35 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Welcome back:

The camshaft sensor doesn't need replaced at the same time. Did the check engine light come back on? Were you able to retrieve any codes?

Let me know
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Saturday, October 12th, 2019 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
ANGIE POWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
No, I still have no check engine light so no codes. It is doing just like it did before. Once it gets up to temperature it starts to idle rough and stalls. I can again restart in neutral and it stays fine as long as my rpm is at least 1500. It ran perfect for the last 2 weeks after changing the camshaft sensor and 2 days ago it's as if I never did that. I'm so confused.

Angela
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Sunday, October 13th, 2019 AT 3:30 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Welcome back:

They can be a nightmare, so I totally understand your thoughts. I do have a question. Was it the cam or crank sensor you replaced two weeks ago? You indicate both. Also, interestingly, a bad crankshaft position sensor may or may not set a code. Have you reinspected the part you replaced? Is there any evidence of a corrosion issue at the plug or wiring? If you remove the sensor, does it look like anything was toughing it? Also, closely inspect the wiring to the sensor. Something could be wrong with it and because you moved it around it worked for two weeks but is once again failing. It's interesting that it is acting the exact same way.

Let me know. Let me know which sensor was replaced. At that point, I will see if I have directions to check the sensor itself. You may have been the lucky one to get a bad part. LOL It happens to me all the time.

Joe
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Sunday, October 13th, 2019 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
ANGIE POWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Sorry, it was the crankshaft sensor that I replaced. I did look under there yesterday and didn't see anything obvious that looked to be the problem with the wires and such. But then again I am learning as I go. So i'm not 100% sure what I am looking for. I didn't remove anything to check it out though and wasn't worried about corrosion since there wasn't anything like that when I changed the part.
Thank you for your help,
Angela
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 1:24 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Are you able to keep it running if you stay on the throttle a bit? If so, lets check for a vacuum leak. Also, pay attention to the oil condition and if there is any white smoke from the exhaust.

Here are directions for checking for vacuum leak. Also, I will add a link for testing for a head gasket and one for pressure testing the cooling system to see if it could be related to the coolant issue you mentioned earlier.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 5:22 PM

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