Stalling, will not stay running

Tiny
STANSBURY88
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 BUICK REGAL
  • 2.8L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Ran great for about seven months, started no problem, put in reverse it stalled. Would not start for about five or ten minutes then started. Stalled about thirty to forty five seconds later. After five to ten minutes it starts again I rev engine but stalled about a minute later. I have replaced fuel filter, fuel pressure at rail is 40 psi, ignition coil reads.8o hms, grounded spark plugs are firing. Could the MAF or 02 sensor cause that problem? Any input will help, thanks!
Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 7:46 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,055 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

You are at the bottom end of fuel pressure requirements. But it should run.

FUEL PRESSURE:

Ignition ON Engine OFF .................... 40.5 to 47.0 psi

With Regulator Vacuum Applied [1] .................... 3.0 - 10.0 psi Less than Ignition ON Engine
OFF

Now, since the engine will start and then stall, take a look through this link. Based on what you are describing, it sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

______________________________

If you determine the sensor is the issue, the crankshaft position sensor is located on the right side of the engine block. See the attached picture.

Let me know if any of this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
STANSBURY88
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I actually just put a crankshaft sensor on but after trying to start it for five days the battery is dead. I have a cheap battery charger but I am guessing it does not work very well because I left it on for about six hours and it did not charge. So I do not even know if that sensor was the problem because now there is not enough battery. Also for the past two days it has not started at all and the plugs are no longer firing. I took off ignition coils and the mount they are on which is either the ignition grounding or the ignition control module(not sure which it is). I have some basic knowledge on cars and if I know what is wrong, have the part
and tools I can do the work but to actually diagnose the problem is not my specialty. The worse part about all of this is I work at Daytona international speedway and it is stuck under the grand stands where I park! So it is not easy to get someone in there to look at it without having an ID badge. But anyways thanks for the reply and if it does not start when I get the battery charged I have not got the slightest idea of what else it could be. So please let me know if there is anything else that could cause it, thanks!
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Saturday, November 3rd, 2018 AT 4:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,055 POSTS
Welcome back. I have a feeling that is the problem. However, if it does not start once you get the battery charged, let me know. I need to know what happens when it cranks to further guide you. Otherwise, I will be doing nothing more than giving several ideas that are most likely wrong and doing nothing more than causing confusion. I hope you understand.

By the way, I envy you. It is already in the 30's here. Drive north for about fifteen hours and you will be here. LOL

Regardless, take care and I will keep my eyes open for your response.

Joe
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Saturday, November 3rd, 2018 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
STANSBURY88
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hey Joe, so I got the battery charged but still doesn't start. I took apart the ignition control module to see if it was bad but it looks damn near new, I've got some pics n a vid of it turning over hopefully it will upload
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Sunday, November 4th, 2018 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,055 POSTS
You mentioned it does get spark. Will it fire for a couple seconds if you use starting fluid?
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Sunday, November 4th, 2018 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
STANSBURY88
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
No spark now. It had a weak spark the first few days but does not at all now. I put a battery tester on it and it only has 168 cca so I think the battery is toast and will not charge now or something because I ave had it on two different chargers and jumped but still would not spark. I am going to get a new battery to see if that does it. I know that was not the problem to start with though because that battery was fairly new. If a new battery does not work the next thing I was thinking was the ECU, which today I found out was re-manufactured. So I am wondering if there is some type of underlying electrical problem that fried the first ECU and now maybe fried this one? I just cannot think of anything else that would cause it not to spark.
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Sunday, November 4th, 2018 AT 8:46 PM
Tiny
STANSBURY88
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Also, I have tried starter fluid multiple times right in the air intake and got nothing. So I think I have eliminated fuel as the problem.
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Sunday, November 4th, 2018 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,055 POSTS
I agree. Have you checked for trouble codes?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

As far as the ignition control module, most parts stores should be able to check that for you. Also, recheck the crank sensor to make sure everything is plugged in and not damaged. However, since you had a weak spark and now no spark, I suspect the ICM may be at fault.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, November 5th, 2018 AT 7:33 PM

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