If this is from a private party, the first thing to do, if you like the car, is to ask to take it on a test-drive for a couple of hours. If they refuse, find a different seller. In that time, take the car to an independent repair shop for a safety inspection. This is a standard procedure for every car traded in at a dealership and should take about an hour. Many smaller used-car dealers don't have their own repair departments. They use these independent repair shops for the same service.
For future reference, here's some suggestions when working with your shop or mechanic:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/10-questions-and-information-to-ask-before-a-repair-shop-visit
They'll look at the steering and suspension systems for worn or loose parts. There's nothing common on this model related to safety problems. They'll remove the wheels to check what percentage of the brakes are left. They can also "read" the tire wear patterns for clues to potential problems. The exhaust system will be inspected for leaks, cracks, and excessive rust. Fluid leaks are another item that will be checked. There may be a standard charge for this service regardless how long it actually takes. When a shop bills their service that way, there may be an extra charge for testing the battery and charging system. That is often ignored because a legitimate problem can develop tomorrow after everything tested fine today. That's just one of the risks when buying any used car.
I'm skeptical of the mileage you listed. I do have a 1980 Plymouth Volare with only 45,000 miles, but odometers on cars of that era only read to 99,000 miles. If you see worn areas on the brake and accelerator pedal pads, or holes worn in the carpet under the pedals, it's more likely the car has 136,000 or even 236,000 miles. Look for mileage records on oil change stickers on the door or upper left of the windshield.
If the owner has detailed written service records, that is a big plus as it shows they took care of the car.
Thursday, February 3rd, 2022 AT 2:42 PM
