Engine sensors do not come in contact with gas. Only the intake air temperature sensor comes in contact with the incoming air, but again, not fuel. Up to two position sensors are triggered magnetically. No cleaning products will reach them or help them. The other sensors are sealed. If Sea Foam could get in, so could water and dirt.
I think you are putting too much faith in this "mechanic-in-a-can". Most often people make some repairs, and add a product, then when the problem goes away or is reduced, it is the chemical that gets the praise, not the other repairs.
To address your other comments, information about sensors is all over the internet, and that is not limited in Canada. If you want know how a sensor works and cannot find that information anywhere else, post a reply here and I'll share as much of my wondrous wisdom as I can spare!
91 octane fuel will cause running problems if your engine does not require it. All the higher octane number means is it is harder to ignite, so pre-ignition is less of a problem on some high-compression engines. You will get the best performance from the lowest octane fuel you can use. The misconception is higher-octane gas has more power, but in fact, what it means is it allows the engineers to design an engine that is able to develop more power, but it would have severe spark knock unless the octane rating is raised.
Be aware too that detergent additives are highly-concentrated versions of the additives already found in gas. The cheapest gas today has much more effective additives than was found twenty years ago. There is very little you can add to the gas tank that will do a better job than the gas itself. If the fine screens in the injectors are clogged with solid debris, chemicals will not clear that. If varnish build-up is a problem, you would have to look at what kind of gas you are using. The best place I have heard of people using these products is to clean the throttle blade and intake manifold runners. That can cure a stumble or hesitation on some engine models. We used to see stalling caused by low idle speed, and that was caused by carbon build-up plugging an air passage where fuel never was found, but we have not seen that problem on those same engines for over twenty years, thanks to the better additives.
I have not heard of cleaning products causing a problem when they a're used properly. I never used anything on my old 1988 Grand Caravan, and that only stopped running at 420,000 miles after pulling a huge tandem-axle enclosed trailer for fifteen years, and rusting apart so badly, the carpet was the only thing holding the front and rear together. I had not changed the oil in over fourteen years, the transmission fluid and filter were replaced once in the vehicle's life, and it got very little preventive maintenance. It ran and shifted perfectly until the day it became too rusty to drive safely. What does that say about newer vehicles that require all kinds of care and upkeep to keep them running okay?
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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 3:29 PM