Your vehicle doesn't actually have a camshaft sensor, it uses the electronic ignition module to send the signals that the cam sensor normally sends.
This model does not use a camshaft position sensor.
The following is from DTC P0341.
The EI module uses capacitive pickup plates located under the 1/4 coil pack to determine the polarity sequence and voltage amplitude of the cylinder 1/4 secondary ignition. The PCM supplies 5 volts on the signal line and expects to see the cylinder #4 signal wire go low after every 14 crankshaft pulses (2 revolutions). This is used to determine the position of the camshaft, except under decel. The PCM only uses the transition from 5 to 0 volts as a valid TDC compression #4 cylinder signal.
For diagnostic purposes, follow the steps below.
Step 1: remove secondary wires from spark plugs; keep the wires on the coil. Measure resistance from #1 wire to #4 wire and then #2 wire to #3 wire. Resistance should be 11k ohms to 45k ohms(YIKES that's a wide range)
If resistance is in spec, go to step 2, if not in specs, go to step 3
Step 2: remove secondary wires from the coil packs and check for corrosion on the towers and wires.
If there is corrosion, go to step 4
if not, go to step 5
Step 3: remove secondary wires from the coil packs and check for corrosion on the towers and wires.
If there is corrosion, go to step 4
if not, go to step 6
Step 4: Replace or clean coils and/or wires as necessary. Retest to confirm.
Step 5: Remove spark plugs. Check for carbon or abnormal wear and proper gap (0.040 in)
If plugs check out good, go to step 8.
If the plugs are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm.
Step 6: Measure resistance of individual secondary wires. Specs are 1.5k ohms to 15k ohms (that's what this chart says, but my knowledge says 8k ohms is normal, greater than 12k ohms should be replaced)
If wires are in spec, go to step 7
If wires are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm
Step 7: Measure resistance from tower to tower on the coil packs (hold tight for good reading). Spec is 8K to 15K.
If coils are in spec, go back up to step 5
If coils are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm
Step 8:(90% of the time I'll bet the problem is solved by now) Start engine. Perform under hood visual inspection of the ignition system, check for arcing (best done in a dark area, if you are inside a garage, be sure the exhaust is vented). Wet DIS module, coils, and secondary wires with salt water to provide optional ground path (arcing from the wire boot to the valve cover is possible, but would be hidden)
If arcing is present, replace wires or coils as needed and retest to confirm.
If not, go to step 9.
Step 9: Turn ignition off, back probe J3D03 (Circuit 633, brn/wht wire) at PCM with voltmeter. Connect other lead to ground. Turn ignition on, engine off and measure voltage.
Less then 4.5 volts, go to step 10
4.5-5.5 volts, go to step 12
more then 5.5 volts, go to step 11
Step 10. Check connections in circuit 633, repair short to ground, retest to confirm
Step 11. Repair short to voltage in circuit 633, retest to confirm.
Step 12. Start engine, and observe voltmeter at idle
less then 2.0 volts, replace DIS module, retest to confirm
2.0 - 4.0 volts, problem intermittent
4.0 - 5.5 volts, go to step 13
more then 5.5 volts, go back up to step 11
Step 13. Turn ignition on, back probe circuit 633 at DIS module with voltmeter, other lead to ground and check voltage.
4.0 volts or less, repair open/high resistance in circuit 633, retest to confirm.
Greater than 4.0 volts, go to step 14
Step 14: Inspect terminal on DIS module for looseness or poor connection.
If terminal is bad, repair it.
If terminal is good, replace the DIS module.
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Friday, May 7th, 2010 AT 2:48 PM