Rough idle pulsation and engine lag

Tiny
ROBBIE SCHAFER FUCHS
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.9L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
Bought the car a couple months ago it had the check engine light on. I can't remember the code that they said but I believe it was something to do with me EVAP system or air intake system. It seems to me bogging down when accelerating at a common pace and it's got a rough start almost as if it's not going to turn over but not quite. Because always does start. I read a couple of suggestions on here for other years I was just wondering if the same suggestion is given for this year and what some tests that can be random prior to purchasing said sensors and or parts.
Oil is not burning up, transmission fluid is not burning up, transmission doesn't seem to be slipping at all and there's no food coloring or flakes in the transmission fluid.
Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 6:44 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

What you described can be caused by several things. Since you think the code had to do with an intake issue or the EVAP system, chances are there is an engine vacuum leak. That is the first thing I would recommend checking for. Here is a link that explains how to do it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Now, if the check engine light is staying on, then we need to have the computer scanned again to see what the actual codes are. Have that done if it is on and let me know what you find.

Here is a quick video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

If you don't have a scan tool, often times a parts store will do it free of charge.

Last, you questioned if certain tests can be done on this vehicle. I don't know what tests you are referring to. Please explain.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions

Take care and God Bless,

Joe

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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
ROBBIE SCHAFER FUCHS
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
By tests I was meaning some way to troubleshoot or evaluate something to be certain that it's the problem. Like with the alternator you can disconnect the cable from battery I cannot remember if it is the positive or negative right this second but I believe it's the positive from the car if the car shuts off the alternator is garbage and if the car does not shut off then the alternator is good test similar to that for other parts, LOL.
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 10:01 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

Okay, now I understand what you mean. Honestly, what I would do is check for diagnostic codes. Once we establish a possible component, then we can try some basic tests.

Based on your description, I suspect it is something to do with fuel pressure, an engine vacuum leak, or even an issue with the catalytic converter.

You could use the link above to test for leaks. You could remove an o2 sensor before the converter to see if it makes a difference, or you could check fuel pressure.

If you can get the code again, it would make it easier for me to direct you. Otherwise, it will become a guessing game.

Here are two more links to help to check those things. Again, this is an educated guess based on symptoms.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
ROBBIE SCHAFER FUCHS
  • MEMBER
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Well, actually I'm no longer around that particular vehicle. I will send her a link to this conversation though so she can read it and see what we've talked about. Right now I'm all about 1995 Ford Escort wagon that's got all kinds of issues, LOL.
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 7:36 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Sounds good. Thanks for letting me know. Good luck with the Escort.

Take care,

Joe
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Friday, April 23rd, 2021 AT 5:33 PM

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