Remove/install steering intermediate coupler roll pin

Yup. I have done dozens of these and the only special tool is one I made to make the job go faster. I have a real long forked air chisel bit for the top nuts on front shock absorbers on older cars. One of the two tangs broke off, so I ground it down to fit the roll pins you are referring to. The punch-part was just long enough to push the pin past the splines, but short enough that it did not push it all the way out of the coupler. If it would have, it is real difficult getting the roll pin started again to reinstall it.

You can make the same tool from a regular punch. Use a tapered punch, but grind the tip off so it is fat enough that it will not go inside the center hole of the roll pin and get stuck. Next, grind the tapered end down so it is straight and small enough to go into the coupler's hole without getting stuck. It is helpful to grind the tip at a slight angle to the shaft of the punch. It is almost impossible to get a straight shot at the pin, and that angle makes it line up better.

If you avoid pushing the roll pin all the way out, it will be started already when you start to tap it back in. No need to get a second hand up there to hold the pin while you try to tap on it.

Be aware you must start with the steering system perfectly centered, and reinstall the coupler when the new rack assembly is also perfectly centered. While the coupler is disconnected, be careful to not let the steering wheel rotate. I run a rubber strap through the steering wheel so I know no one has messed with it while I was not looking, (which did happen once while I was on lunch break). The clock spring for the airbag is a wound-up ribbon cable in a plastic housing under the steering wheel. That cable is just long enough to accommodate turning the steering wheel from lock to lock. If the steering wheel gets turned a full revolution or more from where you started, then the coupler is attached to the new rack which is centered, the clock spring will wind up or unwind a revolution too much one way. Either it will become tight and tear off on one end or it will fully unwind and fold over on itself. It will crack apart after doing that multiple times.

Not to complicate the issue, but you can do the same thing by turning the steering system fully to the left, (or right), if that works better for you. You have to remember to set the new rack assembly the same way when you install the coupler. Tug on the right tie rod end to turn the steering gear fully to the left to match where you left the steering wheel, then install the coupler. When you start this way with the steering wheel fully one way, it will not make it the final complete revolution. The steering wheel will end up somewhere between the three o'clock and six o-clock position. Most steering wheels have a heavy spot that makes them want to self-center themselves when they are free to do so. If you do not tie the wheel in position to hold it there, it could spin from gravity, then you cannot be sure which way you need to rotate it.

When I worked at the dealership, rebuilt racks from Chrysler and from the local auto parts stores came with new roll pins. I never used them, but you can use that to see what size the punch needs to be. The main thing is you do not want the tip of the punch to go inside the roll pin's hole. If it does, and you hammer on it until it gets stuck, put a strong vise grip pliers on the punch, then pound on that to get the punch out.