Can someone tell me which side of the pulley faces the engine before I put this thing back together?

Putting the old pulley and the new pulley face to face and back-to-back there is a slight difference in the two. The newer pulley is slightly thinner width way the overall circumstances are pretty much the same. I used the old bearing race in the new bearing because the new one came without a race. So as the orientation of the pulley I put it back the way it was when I removed the old pulley. I started it up and it appears to be running straight and true no wobble a very slight noise at first but appeared to go away after 10 minutes of sitting idling I guess i'll keep a close eye on it and if the noise comes back or gets loud i'll know something is wrong. I'm kind of wishing i'd bought OEM the new pulley was a Gates. But i'm convinced the minute size difference was so small that it won't be an issue. Do you know how you would remove and replace the bolt that holds that pulley on? It fits in a hole in the block and has a particularly weird design. I mean if that bolt were to have excessive wear, or it broke you could not replace the pulley. What then? Thanks. JC

Sorry Joe, the pulley has to be off before you see the mounting bolt. It's really weird how they did this from what I can tell now this is just guessing without the engine being removed from the car I don't see any way of telling what's going on. I will try and describe it best I can. You already know the upper idler pulley is next to the water pump and pulley it has no spring-loaded tensioner. So, the bolt holding the idler sticks out of a hole in the block right beneath where the head bolts onto the block. They designed this bolt turn freely 360degrees in order to tighten the #10 nut metric Asian made to the. Bolt holding the pulley in place up against the block you have to take one hand and pull upward on the bolt while tightening the nut. Failing to pull the bolt upwards the bolt just spins pull as far up as it will go locks the bolt into place. But you have to put two fingers behind the pulley while holding upward pressure on it in order to tighten the pulley nut. What I'm thinking is the base or the head of this bolt somehow locks into place like a keyway on a crankshaft works. What I can't figure out is how you would change that bolt if it broke or got worn down to the point that pulley wouldn't run true. You probably have access to manuals. If you can figure it out, I'd sure like to know. I'm thinking possibly access may be gained removing the front of the engines timing chain cover / camshaft. Etc. Thanks Joe. JC

That's basically what I have with the exception of the pulley itself. But the mounting bolt is the same, my pulley is different, and I think if you can tell you'll find the year is different mine is a 1998 Altima GXE. I think there may be a difference in those pulleys. If you go back, you'll see I sent a question about which way the pulley goes on. That one showing it goes on with the (open face side out) Then a round big washer over that pulley then the nut. Mine is all one piece, there's no hardware other than the nut. Check the year and see if that's not a different year my 1998. I'm sure my pulley mounted closed face out. Thank you for the diagram but I think mine may be different. I can't send you a good pic. Of the front of the engine, it's too tight.

Thanks. I'm not sure I'll have to check the original part. The part I bought was a Gates. I'm sure the one that seized up was the original. I'll try and see if the number matches. I'll let you know. It seems fine, I drove it 50 miles yesterday without any problem. JC

Thanks Joe, you're right. Thanks for all your help, you guys are great!