Problem progression starting with dash blackout, ABS and trac control lights are on

Tiny
IWILLWIN104
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 156,000 MILES
Driving down the highway, the digital portions of my dash go blank, but track control and ABS lights come on, first thought is alternator has gone and get in turning lane to get off the road before battery is gone. My turn signals nor hazard lights worked, but my headlights and brake lights did. When I stop to wait for the green turn, my dash and everything comes back. Light turns green, I press the gas, and dashboard blacks out again, with the same trac control and ABS lights on. I get pulled into a parking spot and turn the car off to see if it'll reset. At first, I thought alternator, but my engine never lost power (you and I both know you can feel when that V8 is running on the battery vs the alternator). When I started the car, everything was normal. I drove the rest of the way home, and it didn't happen again. I drove back and forth to work for the next 3 days (50-mile round trip), came up with Covid on Friday, and only drove twice during that time. The first one was about five miles in total, and the second was maybe 2 miles. On that 2-mile trip it happened again (please see the video attached). The first time, I at least had headlights and brake lights, and I figured to drive it until the weekend since I had already been out of work too long, but without brake lights, I knew it wasn't safe to go down and back on a very busy section of I-4 into Orlando.
Last night, I pulled all the fuses and checked them, in the engine box and the interior. On my multimeter, my battery tested at 1.6v after I reconnected the battery. So, I used my wife's 2018 Camry to jump off my Lincoln. The Camry measured 12.6 volts while turned off and 13.6 while running, and my battery did too while the Camry was running and hooked to mine. I realized that my dome light was on after hooking up to her car. I let Camry run for 5 minutes or so (long enough to smoke a cig.). I turned on my car and it started without a problem, but the dome light went off and the dash went away like before, but without my pressing the gas. I unhooked my wife's car and let mine run for roughly 10 minutes trying to see if it would charge the battery. I moved my wife's car and realized that hers was displaying that the airbags were offline. I turned off her car to reset the computer. It worked for her car. After 10 minutes, I went to turn off my car and open the door. The lights E lights were on the dashboard and the dome light. I got in and pressed the gas, the dash didn't go away again, but the trac control and ABS lights were still on too. I put the meter on my battery while the car was running, and it showed 17.9v.
I am thinking that the alternator back charging so many volts is causing a power surge that caused my wife's car to lose some sensors for a bit, and has blown something in my system as well, but worse because of having been subjected to it for long the minute and a half it took for me to unhook the jumper cables from the other car. I am being told by the place that replaced my alternator that it doesn't work like that, but I know the first rule of electricity, just like the first rule of plumbing. Water runs downhill, and electricity is going the fastest way to the ground, even if it is through you. For a 12-v battery to receive that much energy and not blow up. It was 17.9v while idling, what is it putting out with the vehicle accelerating from 30 to 80 while entering the interstate and matching the flow of traffic, not to mention lane changes and passing other cars, that excess power had to bleed off somewhere, and I am thinking it bled off into the rest of the system causing multiple massive(for vehicle components) power surges in components that are close to 25 years old.
In the video, please excuse my language. I get very aggravated when my car is not doing what it should. I think, in this sue happy age we are living in, that the place that installed the new alternator is afraid that I am going to make them pay for this if it turns out to be the alternator causing the rest of the problem, but I just want to get my vehicle to work how it should. So, as someone who has nothing to worry about as far as responsibilities for this repair, please shoot me straight. Am I way off about the alternator being the root of the problem, and if I am not off on what I am thinking, what other components could have been fried by this? Also, I tried to add a video, but it doesn't appear to have been uploaded.
Sunday, February 20th, 2022 AT 3:20 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
You are not way off with the alternator being the possible issue. However, we can get this tested at most part stores. so, here is a guide that talks about the type of test we need to prove this out:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Clearly the voltage is too high but that may not cause the ABS light, so we need to get the codes checked while we are there for the alternator test.

Here is a guide that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Once we know what the codes are and if the alternator fails the test, we would have a better idea of where to go.

However, until then we are just guessing.

So let us know what is happening with this and we can go from there. Thanks
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Monday, February 21st, 2022 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
IWILLWIN104
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Kenny,

Good morning and thank you for the response. It's 7:00 am, so I'm just getting rolling and have not yet had a chance to check out the links you have provided. The code reader, is it like the ones they use at AutoZone? I only ask because on two separate occasions, I have tried to use their scanner and it throws back an error and won't save the codes for us to read. That's also one of the reasons I'm having to throw around ideas, but I will surely get the alternator tested. Do you think it is safe, for just a moment, to use my wife's car to jump it off with whatever is happening with my car, possibly causing a problem with sensors on hers?
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Tuesday, February 22nd, 2022 AT 3:54 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Sorry for the delay. There could be an issue with their scanner so we want to try a different parts store, but yes, that is the scanner that we would need to use.

As for using your wife's vehicle, it will not affect her vehicle at all so you are fine to use it.

Hopefully this info will turn something up even if we don't find the solution it will give us info to go on.
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2022 AT 5:00 AM
Tiny
IWILLWIN104
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No worries about response time, I've been to the north, south, east, and west on this forum. I've got an idea of how busy y'all are. Thank you, I'll try to see if another scanner works. I'll let you know. Thank you for this.
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2022 AT 7:03 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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You are welcome. Thanks for being understanding. Let us know if another scanner gives an error as well because we will need to dig into that issue first because we will need to know if there are codes for the ABS issue.
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2022 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
IWILLWIN104
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Kenny, I was going to go find a place with a different scanner and even a full-blown diagnostic machine, but my wife talked me into going back to Pep Boys who had switched out the alternator before. They put in a new one, free of charge. And all my problems were fixed.
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Saturday, February 26th, 2022 AT 1:36 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Oh wow. That is great. The only problem I see now is you are always going to have to listen to what your wife says to do. :)

Great job and thanks for coming back and updating us.
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Saturday, February 26th, 2022 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
IWILLWIN104
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Hahaha ha! Ain't that the truth? I still maintain my title at work as a "car guy", though. Friday, a co-worker had just bought an older Nissan Sentra the day before and couldn't get it to start. 4 guys around and asked if I know cars, "a bit" is what I say. So, I checked the battery cables and realized I was hearing the door chime had him turn on his headlights for 5 seconds. They were nice and strong. Dome light? Not a hint of a waver. He turned the key and there was nothing. No clicking, no light dim, no attempt on the part of the car to start. At the back of the car, I pushed it to the extent of play that the park gear has in it. "Turn the key, " when he got out of his car with its motor now humming like it had never had a problem, I had already walked across the parking lot to my car and was backing out of my spot. "How did you do that?" I shrugged, "Dude, I told ya. I'm a car guy." Pulled out of the parking lot with all four of the guys' mouths hanging open. I know this may sound horrible, but I told all those car guys I had spoken to over the past couple weeks, and they swore the alternator overcharging couldn't do all that. Your answer, that it might be the problem with what was going on helped me more than you know. The fact I found one person that didn't say, emphatically, it couldn't be the alternator stopped me from selling it for parts to get up a down payment. If there was a chance, there was a reason to keep following that line of thought.
Thank you again, because of your answer, I'm not sitting here deeper in debt than I already because of having to buy a different car. My wife and I can keep working toward getting a house like we were before this went down.
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Saturday, February 26th, 2022 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
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Haha. Well, that is a great ending then. So glad we could play a small part in this.

Please come back next time if you need some assistance. Thanks again.
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Sunday, February 27th, 2022 AT 5:39 AM
Tiny
IWILLWIN104
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I will Kenny K, you can believe that.
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Sunday, February 27th, 2022 AT 5:48 AM

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