Problem after clutch replacement

SBAKER821

MEMBER
2001 KIA SEPHIA
1.8L
4 CYL
2WD
MANUAL
80,500 MILES

Hello,

So, I have replaced the clutch but after reassembly the car won't start. A little back history is I had an actual mechanic lined up to assist me in replacing the clutch. When we got the trans off and put the new clutch in, it became dark and so we called it for the night. Now up until now this mechanic had stated everything was looking good and that he would return the next day to finish helping me. Well for reasons unknown he never came back, and I was left to finish on my own. I have been learning as I go from multiple manuals as well as watching a lot of videos. It took me way longer than I thought, getting everything back together only to start it and she won't turn over. When I turn the key, it just sounds like a dull cranking. So, a few things come to mind as to what the problem is, but I hope maybe someone could point me in the most likely direction.

When I was putting the transmission back as far as I could tell I was very careful in making sure that it slid on easily and not having it bind at any point. But now I am second guessing myself and dread the thought of having to take it all apart again. I hope this isn't the case.

Another possibility would be electrical. While I was waiting for the mechanic to arrive, I got started and took as much off as I could. I did try to remove the fuse box but was only able to get it loose and I zipped tide it up near the cowl. Now when I try to start it, it only cranks and drains the battery down to 12.4v to 9v or so. Also a few times the cooling fan would kick on and stay on until I turned the key to the off position. Also, worth noting the radio is powerless. All other electrical parts appear to still work as intended. The lines leading to the starter seem like they maybe loose, but I can't tell for sure given the location and really am not sure of the best way to get a better look.

And then there is a hydraulic system for the clutch. This was a nightmare trying to bleep. I finally was able to get it but I feel like the slave cylinder isn't extending the push rod far enough. The clutch fork is very hard to move by hand. I replaced both cylinders and just see very little movement from the push rod. I also might mention that there have been three master cylinders put on in 2 years. That seemed odd to me, but I am unsure why the previous owner replaced it. Found their receipt in the glove box for one.

So now she sits, and I very badly would like to get it figured out before my wife makes me junk it. Any and all help is appreciated. And if I forgot any details that may be needed, I will try to respond quickly.

Thank you

3 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,724 POSTS

Hi,

I will try my best to help. Here is what I need to know. First, when you turn the key, does the starter engage and turn the engine, or does it just click and that's it? You mentioned both above and I just want to confirm.

Next, chances are the transmission doesn't need to be removed again, so relax. However, I recommend checking the fuse box you moved. Make sure nothing is loose, damaged, and there are no blown fuses. One other thought. You indicated the voltage goes from 12.4v to 9.0v. Is that when the key is in the start position? If it is, that too is normal, but the starter should be engaging.

If possible, record what it is doing and upload it for me to hear. Additionally, check the starter fuse in the engine compartment fuse box and the starter relay. One other thought is the clutch position switch on the clutch pedal assembly. Since you had the clutch MC out, make sure the connector is plugged into the switch and make sure the switch is properly mounted and working to allow the flow of power to the starter. If the switch doesn't fully actuate, the starter will not engage.

Here is the list I need you to follow:

1) Check all fuses in the under-hood fuse box. (See pic 3)

2) Check starter relay in the under-hood fuse box. Note: If there is a different relay with the same part number, switch them. If there isn't, here is a link explaining how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

3) If the relay is good and fuses are good, go to the clutch safety switch at the top of the clutch pedal. There will be a red wire with a yellow tracer going into it. That wire is from the 10-amp starter fuse. It will only have power when the key is in the start position, so you will need a helper to confirm power. If there is power, depress the clutch and check the brown wire with a red tracer for power. This wire completes the circuit and will only have power when the key is in the start position and the clutch is depressed.

4) If the clutch switch is good, go to the starter motor. The heavier gauge wire will have 12v at all times, so make sure not to short it. There will be a smaller trigger wire which is red with a white tracer. That wire will only have power when the key is in the start position and the clutch pedal is depressed. Again, you will need a helper to confirm. If that wire has power, the heavier gauge wire is good and has 12v, and the battery terminals are clean and tight, either we have a bad starter, or something may have gone wrong when you reinstalled it.

I know this sounds like a lot, but you will get through it quickly. If you have questions, let me know. One last thing. Here is a link you may find helpful. It explains what to check (in general) when the starter won't engage.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

I will watch for your reply. Let me know the outcomes of all the tests and if possible, record what it is doing so I can hear it.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Images (Click to make bigger)