We don't have access to service information for this model, but I may be able to help anyway. First of all, tell me what you have for switches for that window. Do you have one on that door plus another one on the driver's door? If the driver can control that window, is the switch on the door or on an overhead console or center console?
Until you tell me differently, I'm going to assume there's two switches, one on each left door. When that is the case, there are actually eight sets of switch contacts involved in the circuit. Four are in play when both switches are released. One of the other four change state when a switch is pressed. I know that sounds confusing for now, but as far as troubleshooting, a good place to start is right at the affected window motor. To be valid, the readings must be taken with the connector unplugged from the motor. Now, use an ohm meter to measure the continuity from each motor wire, one at a time, to ground. The ground for your meter should be on a paint and rust-free point on the body, not on the door.
If you find one wire doesn't have continuity to ground, there's a number of good suspects. The first would be a broken wire in the track that follows the sliding door. Probably even more likely is a broken or frayed wire between the driver's door hinges, (if the switch is on that door). This won't apply if the switch is on a center console as those wires aren't constantly being flexed and twisted. The last suspect is either of the switches. This is where it gets confusing when you don't have the diagram to follow. Those motor wires you're measuring each go through a set of contacts in each switch that are "on" when the switches are released. If one of those contacts is burned or arced away, that ground circuit is lost.
Before I explain the hint, let me continue with circuit operation. As I mentioned, both motor wires should have continuity to ground when the switches are released. If you measure voltages instead, both wires will have 0 volts. Now, when any one switch is pressed, one of its sets of contacts moves to break the ground circuit first, then it continues on to make the connection to 12 volts. That motor wire gets the 12 volts while the other wire still has continuity to ground. The window runs one way. Release the switch, ... The 12 volts goes away, ... The ground path is restored, and the motor stops. If you press the switch for the other direction, the other circuit has its ground path interrupted, and the first wire remains grounded. 12 volts shows up on the other motor wire. That means the polarity is reversed and the motor runs the other way.
Either of those functions can be done at the passenger's switch too.
To stop here for a second, the hint I alluded to is when there is a break in one circuit, regardless if it's due to a wire or a switch, you can measure voltages at the window motor, but in this case, do that while the motor is plugged in. When you press a switch for one direction, the break will prevent the 12 volts from getting to the motor, so you'll still have 0 volts on both wires. When you press a switch for the other direction, you'll find 12 volts on both wires. 12 volts made it to the motor, and through it, but there's no ground circuit to complete the path for current flow.
With this type of problem, the window motor will run in one direction, but you won't know that when it is already fully up or fully down.
(Motor unplugged again): If you find there is 12 volts on one motor wire when either switch is pressed "up", and the other motor wire has 12 volts when pressed "down", the power side is working. You're likely to find both wires do not have continuity to ground. When this is the case, the best suspect is the ground wire between the driver's door hinges. That wire is for both ground circuits, but the clinker here is that ground wire is shared by all the other window circuits. A break in the ground wire means none of the windows would work in either direction.
Similarly, if you never find 12 volts on either motor wire, regardless of which switch is pressed, a good suspect is the 12 volt wire from the driver's lockout, or master switch. That's used to prevent kids from playing with the windows. That circuit feeds all windows except the driver's window, so that one will still work. All the others will be dead, not just one window.
See how far that gets you. If you find the cause of the problem, please let me know what the cause was. If we need to look further, let me know what you have for switches, and tell me as many wire colors as you can, particularly those to the motor, so I can make reference to them. I'll try to find a similar diagram for a different model to give us something to look at. Also look in an under-dash fuse box to see if there's any relays listed as being for the power windows. Those would indicate another level of complication to consider.
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Friday, April 19th, 2024 AT 4:23 PM
