Power doors and lift gate stopped working

TREXGIRL81

MEMBER
2001 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
3.3L
6 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
95,000 MILES

A few days ago my power sliding door(s?) And lift gate stopped opening with the key fob and the interior button and side door button. I thought I turned off the safety switch but it was still in the on position. When you press any of the buttons, fob, interior or side door button you can hear the motor engage and pop the door open but it won't open all the way. If you push any of the lift gate button nothing happens. I've looked all over the interwed and the only thing that comes up is about the tract in the door saying that it could be a break in the wire that won't open the door and to take it apart and inspect it. But here's the thing I'm confused on. If it were a broke wire in the tract to the door would that cause my lift gate to not work either? And if it was a broke wire wouldn't the motor not engage and pop the door open? The lift gate and the door are 2 separate buttons, so why would the tract wires be an issue with the lift gate?Unless I'm wrong.
Could it be blown fuses? Both my sliding door and lift gate run on a 40 green cube fuse. How can you tell by looking at the fuse on if that's the problem? I know the 2001 Chrysler's had a recall about the wiring in the tract system. Anyone have any ideas?

1 Reply

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,755 POSTS

Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, there are two separate fuses. One is for the rear lift gate and the other for the sliding doors. Both are 40 amp. I attached a pic of the wiring schematic showing the fuses and what they power.

Now, as far as the fuse for the doors, it they start to work and don't finish, the fuse is most likely not the problem. Instead, it is most likely a sensor or a wiring issue. I hate to also mention that this vehicle has a totally integrated power module. These modules are starting to develop a concern with the connectors they attach to. There are many different connections to the same module and each connector has several very small pins. What I am starting to see is that the pins corrode or actually break from years of vibration. The result is (and not always) you get a small burst of power and then a damaged pin loses connection or power is reduced and the component won't work. All I can say at this point, is ugh! It becomes a bit tedious to confirm the problem and if a pin is the problem, I have never seen one that was repairable.

As far as checking the fuse. take a look through these links. They should help confirm the fuse's condition as well as if there is power available to the fuse.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Here are a few links to help with checking:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

____________________________

Let me know if any of this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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