Are you using an auto-ranging digital meter? If so, be sure it is not showing "millivolts". I have over a dozen meters I used in TV repair and auto electronics, but I never bought an auto-ranging meter because I get fooled too often.
The only tuning chips I am familiar with are add-on boxes that are hard-wired to the vehicle. A friend who specializes in rebuilding smashed Dodge trucks uses them but they are only effective at overcoming the limitations designed in by the engineers to increase reliability at the expense of power and fuel mileage on diesel engines. They do not do much for gas engines that you cannot do yourself by pushing the accelerator pedal further.
I get the feeling you are looking for a computer chip, (integrated circuit), that you can unplug like we did on 1980's GM Engine Computers. That is not the case with all other brands. The computers are sealed, but they do have software installed specific to the application. There is aftermarket software available that is installed via a laptop computer. Once that is done, if you don't have that software, the only way to remove it is to have the computer re-flashed at the dealership.
You have to read the fault codes again to know if it is even something that needs to be dealt with. If the Check Engine light was not on, the code does not refer to something that could adversely affect emissions. Some aftermarket code readers will display codes that cannot be avoided. An example would be a code for an open relay circuit for the AC compressor. That code will set on every vehicle that didn't come from the factory with air conditioning, but the Chrysler scanners and the vehicle will not display it. Aftermarket scanners and code readers might display it, but we know it can be ignored.
Do you know how to read the fault codes yourself?
Friday, February 3rd, 2017 AT 4:31 PM
