Body control module location

Tiny
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  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Looking for the exact location of the body control module on my SUV listed above c-1500 LS model with the old body style.
Monday, August 6th, 2018 AT 3:50 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
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It is under the center console mounted to the floor. 18 in the image. What issue are you having?
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Monday, August 6th, 2018 AT 4:18 PM
Tiny
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Thank you, for your reply. I have removed the knee panel looked under the steering column, removed the instrument cluster, the radio, CD player, and heater controls, the ashtray and 12 volt plugs assembly. The glove box, and the center console and have not found it yet. Would it be under the carpet below the center console somewhere? I will double check tomorrow but like I say I have got the console pulled out and nothing is staring me in the face, and the problems I am having are the power locks will lock but not unlock on all doors, and I replaced the relay, and my interior lights work intermittently, as does the door chime. Steve.
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Monday, August 6th, 2018 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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It will not be below the carpet, but it is buried under a bunch of components. It is just a simple aluminum box with a couple connectors on it.
For a door lock issue the BCM is not involved. That is a stand alone module located behind the left rear 1/4 panel trim in front of the wheel arch. However, as the problem does not effect all the doors the module is not the issue. It sounds like you have a bad door switch and possibly a bad latch. Which door(s) are working okay and which are not?
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Monday, August 6th, 2018 AT 11:58 PM
Tiny
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Tried the switch first thing, all the doors will lock they will not unlock.
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2018 AT 8:15 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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This is not the lock/unlock door switch it is the door lock module which is in the rear of the truck. It controls all of the lock functions. The switch I referred to would be the jamb switch that turns on the interior light and door chime. If it does not matter which door you open/close but the chime/light issue is still a problem then it is likely the jamb switch input on the lock module.
As they all lock it is not a power problem. Instead it is an issue with the unlock circuit (the white wire) on the diagram. As it carries the unlock signal from the switches to the module. If the doors all lock from each switch but will not unlock then that wire or the module itself has an issue. Most likely would be a bad connection or break right at the module. A bad connector at that module could easily cause all of your issues.
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2018 AT 10:17 AM
Tiny
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So are you saying that it is unlikely that the problem is the BCM and more likely a module located in the rear of the truck in the panel on the left-hand side, and is that called a door lock module and controls only the door locks?
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2018 AT 5:44 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The BCM does not connect to or control the locks in any way so it cannot be the problem. The locks are only controlled through the door lock module and the switches at each door. If you have the remote entry option that is another add on but it would not cause your problem unless you can lock/unlock with the door switches but not the remote. That is why I attached that wiring diagram. It shows the module and it's wiring. Lock uses power through the switches to the light blue wire. Unlock uses power into the switches and out on the white wire. As you have the ability to lock the doors the power feed into the switches is working and the light blue wire to the module is good. However you cannot unlock the doors, if it was only that you could not unlock the doors at say the passenger front door, then I would say check the switch. However you say you cannot unlock from any door. That points at the module as all of the switches are wired in the same circuits.
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2018 AT 1:44 AM
Tiny
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Thank you for all your help, I will replace the door lock module and see what happens, hopefully, I will have better luck finding it than I did trying to find the BCM.
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2018 AT 10:04 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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It will be under the 1/4 panel trim. I would first test at the connections for the wires before removing or disturbing the connector. If you move a switch to unlock, you should see battery voltage on the white wire in the connector. Lock will put voltage onto the light blue wire. That will tell you that those circuits are good from the switches to the module. Then remove the connector and see if it is corroded or damaged.
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2018 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
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Yes, that is what I will do, and just to double check I will find that module under the quarter panel trim on the driver's side just in front of the rear wheel cutout correct?
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2018 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
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I am sorry I forgot to ask, I could not enlarge that schematic big enough to read it without distorting the images. Does the power run from the switch to the relay and then the module or what is the proper route? Thanks again.
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2018 AT 11:20 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Click on the image on this page, then click on the image that loads. Should make it very large.

Power comes from three sources. The cigar lighter fuse (13) the gauge fuse (4) and the power accessory circuit breaker. Check all of those first.
The power goes to all the parts on the orange wires.
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Thursday, August 9th, 2018 AT 6:58 AM
Tiny
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Thanks again, we will let you know how it goes.
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Thursday, August 9th, 2018 AT 8:26 AM
Tiny
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Well Steve, today I checked the power to the relay, the switches and the module and I am getting power to all, constant to the orange wire and power to the blue and white wires when switched up or down, did I mention before that there seemed to be power to each door lock when I started looking for the problem? You can hear them click but they will not lock, if you lock them manually then use the switch they unlock just fine. I do not know where to go with it now.
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Friday, August 10th, 2018 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Nope you did not mention that. That makes it a lot different. If there is power to them in both lock and unlock then you need to check the actual power available at the lock. The easy way to do that is to use a large draw test light, like a headlight or similar bulb. Just connect it in the place of the two actuator wires. Then hit the switches in both directions, if it lights up bright both ways the actuator has failed, not uncommon on GM's of those years.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 6:35 AM
Tiny
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I am sorry to keep bothering you, but I have got another question, that schematic you posted shows a part called a remote control door lock receiver, supposedly behind the center of the dash with like 13 wires going to it. I do not recall seeing anything like that are you familiar with it, this is in addition to the door lock relay and the module.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 4:36 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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That module is only there if you have remote door locks. If you do not have key fobs there will not be a remote module.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 5:17 PM

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