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Parasitic drain

Tiny
CASPERF12
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 5.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 58,000 MILES
Pulled cluster fuse and mil amp draw 11, installed fuse 63 mil amp draw. Bad cluster or what?
Monday, March 26th, 2018 AT 12:52 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening.

A draw of 50-75 milli amps is a normal draw. Looks good from the readings you posted.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Roy
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Monday, March 26th, 2018 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
EYECOR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 150,000 MILES
I believe the brake circuit turns on during the night. I replaced the switch, and thought I had it fixed, but problem recurs. Brake fluid seems fine. I did notice that brake pedal was not returning completely, but new switch seems to have fixed that. Any ideas?
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening.

If you want to be sure, disconnect the switch overnight and see if it drains out.

Otherwise, you will need to remove the negative cable and put an amp meter in line. Let the car sit for about thirty minutes and see what the amp meter reads.

Roy
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AARON386
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 127 MILES
Turning off the van works fine, but when I pull the key out it acts like its still in and it can spin any way forever. The battery drains every time. How can I fix this problem?
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Either the linkage has come apart from the switch or has broken. You need to remove the steering wheel and part of the column to access it.

Let me know what you find.
Joe
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TWINS924
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
My battery drains over night, changed alternator, new battery, and belt, also checked fuses, still draining
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Get an analog voltmeter remove the negative battery cable, attach the Black lead to the battery post, Red lead to cable end, then pull fuses one at a time, make sure there are no accessories or lights in the on position, Key off! Close the door after each fuse and check meter, when you pull the fuse for the bad curcuit, the meter will drop to 1 volt or so. Check all fuses, even under the hood. If meter does not drop, remove the battery connection from the alternator, if it drops now, the diodes are bad in the alternator. Put the fuse back in were it goes as you go so you don't forget which fuse goes were!
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KINGOFOMAHA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1990 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 43,670 MILES
No electrical draw found after many checks(500 milliamps). Alarm removed, all doors checked for contacts clean and working. No inside lights ON. Battery runs down in 3-7 days. Unreliable, continues to have low or dead battery. Alternator putting out at 14.6; two batteries in one year, the charge needle sometimes does not register a charge other times it stays in the charge zone, turn off and needle drops a hair below the off mark.
Any thoughts.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MJR346
  • MECHANIC
  • 132 POSTS
Radios and anything that has a memory are known power hogs that can cause this, another thing is if it has a glove box as it's overlooked and underhood lights staying on. After that, I'd recommend disabling the interior lights and after 60 minutes to let stuff power down, pull fuses one at a time to isolate the circuit which is causing the draw
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KINGOFOMAHA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I removed the faceplate from the radio and I have no glovebox on my E150. I removed the under hood light bulb, all that before to eliminate any problems. Will do the disconnect on the lighting on the inside. I was wondering if perhaps the alternator was not putting out all the time maybe just some of the time or if the starter could draw too much to start the vehicle but if its not all the time it can get expensive throwing parts at something dont you know.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
While checking for a draw, remove one fuse at a time to see if you can limit the draw to one circuit. Also, have the diodes in the alternator checked.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PCDJ64
  • MEMBER
  • 127 POSTS
  • 1984 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 7.5L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 63,000 MILES
I have a 1984 RV with the Ford E350 cab.
2 batteries, one starting, one house.
Both batteries on a draw test pull 1.7ma on the 20ma scale and 0.17 on the 200ma and 20a scale.
It is traced to the dash stereo memory (starting battery) and the house area stereo memory (house battery).

Is 1.7ma on the 20ma scale within acceptable range?
I have batteries that don't keep a charge long and I am pretty sure they are no good but want to rule out a draw issue before I pull them and have them tested/replaced.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

The normal draw is 50 to 75 milliamps. 1.7 milliamps are good.

Roy
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PCDJ64
  • MEMBER
  • 127 POSTS
Thank you.
Now I can move on to upgrading to new batteries without worrying about it killing them.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM (Merged)

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