Over Heating problems

Tiny
MIKE SAVORILLO
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET 1500
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
I have replaced the water pump thermostat radiator hoses I have cleaned and flushed out the Radiator twice and still I have over heating problems I also noticed that as soon as I start the truck that coolant starts circulating right away and so I pulled off the hose from the thermostat housing and looked in it to make sure I didnt put it in backwards and no it correct Im at the end of my rope here Id really appreciate and insight you might be able to give me.
Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 3:30 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening,

You should not see circulation right away. The thermostat should be closed until it reaches 195 degrees. If it is open, then the coolant is not circulating at the back of the block and could damage the heads and block.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Did you take the temperature of the radiator at the top and bottom when it is hot?

I would also do a compression test to look for any coolant in the cylinders.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 5:36 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
Unless your radiator hoses are sucking flat,

I might give some thought to radiator replacement, if it's original, it's no longer the Spring chicken it used to be. They get deposits and build up over the years, parts store flushes just can't do the job.

Anymore, unless they are old school brass, they cannot be taken apart/ vatted and reassembled. Usually they are now disposable. Parts store flushes just can't do the job.

I looked it up at Advance Auto Parts (online) They show 3 different radiators all below $155 for your truck. Read to insure they (one) are exactly what yours requires

This might help you out too.

If you are thrifty, coupons and promo codes found on the net can really knock the cost of parts down! (Older example with my pic below, it worked well)

Keep us posted.

The Medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
TOUGHDIVER
  • MECHANIC
  • 224 POSTS
Hi,

It could also be the fan clutch is faulty. It is a silicone clutch and it could not working be properly and you are not getting enough air through the radiator. Here is a good way to check the operation of the fan clutch. Let us know it this information was helpful.

Thank you
Joe T.

1. Start with cool engine to ensure complete fan clutch disengagement.

2. If fan and clutch assembly free wheels with no drag (revolves more than five times when spun by hand), replace clutch. If clutch performs properly with slight drag, proceed to following step.

3. Position thermometer so it is located between fan blades and radiator, noting the following:
a. Insert thermometer sensor through one of existing holes in fan shroud or place between radiator and shroud. It may be necessary to drill a 3/16 inch hole in fan shroud to insert thermometer.
B. Check for adequate clearance between fan blades and thermometer sensor before starting engine, as damage could occur.

4. With thermometer in position, cover radiator grill sufficiently to induce high engine temperature.

5. Start engine, then turn on air conditioning and operate at 2000 RPM.

6. Observe thermometer reading when clutch disengages, noting the following:
a. It will take approximately five to ten minutes for temperature to become high enough to allow engagement of fan clutch. This will be indicated by a 5-15 degrees F drop in thermometer reading.
B. If clutch did not engage between 150-195 degrees F, unit should be replaced. Ensure fan clutch was disengaged at beginning of test.
C. If no sharp increase in fan noise or temperature drop was observed and fan noise level was constantly high from start of test to 190 degrees F, unit should be replaced. Do not continue this test past thermometer reading of 190 degrees F to prevent engine overheating.

7. As soon as clutch engages, remove radiator grill cover and turn A/C off to assist in engine cooling. Run engine at approximately 1500 RPM.

8. After several minutes, fan clutch should disengage as indicated by reduction in fan speed and roar. If fan clutch fails to function as described, replace it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
MIKE SAVORILLO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hey thanks for your reply. I forgot to say that I also replaced the clutch fan and today I pulled off the part of the radiator hose to look in the housing to make sure I hadn't put the thermostat on backwards which I hadn't, but I'm sure it has something to do with the coolant circulating. Right from the start it acts like the thermostat is stuck on open because with the radiator cap off and looking in it I can see the coolant circulating while the water is still cool. It's brand new I bought it and all my parts at Merals Auto. If you might have any other help I might try I be very happy to hear it as this truck I think has a curse or just doesn't like me, lol.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 20th, 2020 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Did you check the temperature of the radiator cores at the top and bottom when it is hot as I suggested in the beginning?

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 20th, 2020 AT 4:14 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links