Hello and welcome back. Check injector #2 and #5 connector to verify it is properly secured and locked. If the lock is broken then you can order just the connector housing to replace it. If properly secured then disconnect it and check for injector pulse. Here is a link that shows you the steps. Scroll down to step #7.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
If you have a pulse then the injectors are open circuited and will need replacing. For the slow purge fault, a software update usually corrects this fault. That would be the first step you need to have done. If you have the latest and greatest then the purge valve could have a very small leak but usually the leak detection pump is what fails with these vehicles.
The boost fault, check inter-cooler hoses and charge pipe to verify you have no leaks or disconnected hoses. Inspect your turbo control valve hoses and verify they are connected to the right ports. They are color coded so make sure the colors corresponds to where it is plugged into. Some oil in the cooler is normal. All turbos do that.
The paper test indicates the PCV system is not plugged up because you do have a slight vacuum. If there was no vacuum then there would be an issue.
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Saturday, September 14th, 2019 AT 2:40 PM