No crank, no start, code U0100

Tiny
ALEXIS TORAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 MAZDA 6
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
I have recently over two months ago had reputable shop replace alternator, starter, radiator, and belts, car drove rough slightly which was normal for me, after about a month my car began to make this weird whistling sound every time it ran. I didn't think much of it as it wasn't overheating or anything out of the ordinary. All fluid levels were awesome and hoses inspected were fine.

Eventually I noticed slight decrease in speed, acceleration, and misfiring occurring upon acceleration then.

This evening I go to turn on car it has a sluggish time kicking up and cranking. If I it let the key go to quickly it would die out!

However if I held the key in crank position long enough and applied gas it would start up fine it did the same thing eventually it only cranked up with the car being in neutral after a while

After driving for few weeks it started to do more odd things such as die at red lights and I would have to restart it seem it kept loosing it spark or something and couldn't start.

Then this morning it's super cold like any other morning I go to turn the key to crank it does nothing it's completely dead no sound nothing !

I attached code reader got one code U0100 lost communication with ECM/PCM A

I went immediately checked my ECM wire under hood near fuse box and it fine no burn nothing just crusty gel substance.

I then tested fuse have no clue it going this right but had key in on position and got read from the fuses except the:
*Injector fuse
*Engine bar fuse

ECM fuse under car on driver side nothing works in the fuse box on driver side just to note but again in not sure if i'm using multi-meter correctly.

I have no idea why my car randomly stop working when it was just working please can someone point me in right direction?
Friday, January 10th, 2020 AT 5:32 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

This sounds like you have unwanted resistance somewhere in the Engine Control Module[ECM] circuits.In the diagrams down below I have included the factory diagnostic troubleshooting guide for Direct Trouble Code[DTC] U0100. Please go through this guide and get back to us with what you find.Also, here is a link below on how to properly use a Digital Multi-meter [DMM]:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, January 10th, 2020 AT 4:31 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I suspect you have a general engine issue along with the issue that is causing the code that you are getting.

The fact that this has been running poorly and progressively got worse tells me we need to start at the beginning and pull the spark plugs to see what they look like. If they haven't been changed in a while, I would just go ahead and change the out. Then we need to check fuel pressure to see if you have proper pressure.

Once we verify these items and get the vehicle running we can start looking at the code that you have.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

The communication issue code will not by itself cause your issues. If you had other codes with it then we could go there but I think we need to verify base engine things first.
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Friday, January 10th, 2020 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
ALEXIS TORAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
So just an update: I do not not understand anything you posted no offense I am female and literally have no idea about nothing so throwing schematics at me does not help me sorry you would need to explain.

But anyway I put new fuses. In and I found out car tried starting up how ever this (engine in) fuse inside car (number 1) fuse box keeps blowing went attempt to start, yes there is fuel pressure figured that out by jumping starter and placing pressure gauge in engine plenty of pressure seeing if car engages so no brainier there.
However everything else works fine.
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Sunday, January 12th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Don't sell yourself short. Some of the best mechanics I know are women.

The fact that this fuse keeps blowing is because you have something on that circuit that is drawing more than 15 amps (which is what the 15A means). If you look at each of the wiring diagrams it shows this circuit highlighted in yellow. Since we know it blows then we need to find what component it is that is drawing more current. Luckily this circuit just has the coils on it so that is the most likely cause. More than likely you have a coil that is shorted. It could be the capacitor but more than likely it is the coils. It could be multiples of them or just one.

There are a couple of ways to figure this out. Test them with a meter, unplug them one at a time and see which ones do not cause the fuse to blow.

Let me know if you have questions and we can walk through whatever you want. This is pretty straight forward to explain so I just need to know what you are confused about and I will elaborate. It is easier to do that then write a long explanation on things you may not need explained.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
ALEXIS TORAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you so much for the clarity. I will check and see and get back to you.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 5:46 PM

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