Okay, looking at the wiring diagram I see a black wire that grounds all 4 coils, a green wire that feeds power to the coils and for cylinder 2 a blue wire which is the trigger wire from the DME To test it I would erase the code then use the test light connected to a good ground to test the connection for coil 4 which is the orange wire on pin 17 next to the blue wire for coil 2 do you see the ignition control pulses? If yes, probe the blue wire for coil 2 on pin 16 and see if there are pulses there. If you see them there, check at both coils. If you see pulses there, then pull the coil up and use the test light probe to see if there is spark at the coil. Then pull the plugs and verify if you have spark or not. If the signal is there but no spark, then it's possibly the connector itself that's bad. If you swapped the coils with no change then it likely isn't the coil. However, if the code is still there it may turn off the coil if it is shorted or pulling excess current.
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Sunday, January 30th, 2022 AT 12:37 PM