No spark, no fuel

1998 DODGE RAM
106,093 MILES • 5.9L • V8 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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CHRIS GOULD
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I have the 1500 model. I do not have spark or fuel. Have checked all fuses and relays multiple times. New crank sensor, new coil. New fuel pump. Odometer flashing and throws codes 920 and 921. I am able to jump the fuel pump off the relay terminal but still no fire.
Jul 18, 2017 at 12:26 AM
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HMAC300
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try a security system reset. I think on your car you lock drivers door with key, unlock with key then try to start. Other wise try the link that is attached. kind of sounds like a security problem.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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CHRIS GOULD
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Tried that still no spark or fuel pump kicking on. Even installed a different PCM still same exact thing
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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HMAC300
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if the new pcm wasn't programmed to your truck it won't start anyhow
check fuses and asd relay under hood
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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CHRIS GOULD
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Even if the PCM is out same yr with same motor? Have checked & fuses & relays multiple times, all good.
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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HMAC300
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yes because the pcm's have a security system and if it is not programmed to your truck then it won't start. you should scan for codes with OLD computer and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. see link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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CHRIS GOULD
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No codes with old computer. Just says error when I put a scanner on. And there is no fuel pressure because the fuel pump doesn't kick on
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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HMAC300
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you may have a broken wire or connector where you plug scanner in try another one if you have one available. see link for no start as well it may be a security issue too with old computer in truck and hooked up did you try the security reset by locking/unlocking driver door that I first sent?
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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CHRIS GOULD
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Yes I did, multiple times. Ok I'll try & get another scanner
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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CHRIS GOULD
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Hooked another scanner, a more advanced one. Still read error. The truck acts like it wants to start but just continues to turn over
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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STRAILER
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Hello,

It sounds like you may have an ASD relay that is bad here is a guide and some wiring diagrams to help you do some more testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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CHRIS GOULD
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All relays are good. Now all of a sudden I have fuel pump but doesn't just prime. It stay on continuously. But still no spark. Pls help!
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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STRAILER
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It sounds like its time to do a pin to pin check on the computer to see if you have all the power and grounds are working. Use the wiring diagram above.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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CHRIS GOULD
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As far as I could tell everything was ok. Still no spark & fuel pump stays on doesn't just prime. Have replaced wiring harness, pcm, crank sensor, cam sensor, idle air sensor, tps. Odometer still flashes & throws codes 920 & 921
Jul 6, 2020 at 1:42 PM
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98_DODGE_RAM_SPORT
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V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 115000 miles

OK, where do I start. My 98 dodge ram 1500 5.9L recently stalled on me. After attempting to jump start the truck the gauge lights started clicking and I could not start. It cranks fine and everything works as far as windows, wipers, lights and all accessories. I do NOT have spark to the plugs and the fuel pump does NOT turn on. I bypassed the fuel system relay and the pump does work and I get pressure to the rail but only after bypassing it. It does not prime when key goes to on position. Also, the check engine light comes on and shuts off like normal with PCM plugged in but also after I removed the PCM.

I checked the ASD relay as well as all other relays and fuses. Everything checked out good. I replace the Crank Position Sensor however still nothing. I tried 2 different OBDII scanners and both gave me a link error. I have 12v getting to the PCM and grounds seem fine. The dodge dealership diagnosed the problem as a bad ground off the battery stating it had 200 ohms resistance. I have replaced that and still nothing. I have 12v to all the relays and fuses. What could this problem be? This has been going on for 3 weeks and is causing me to lose work days. I have no voltage at both injectors and coil. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you, Dustin

Dec 13, 2020 at 10:00 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Check fuse no.9 10 amp in junction block right end of dash and fuse no. 6 30 amp in the PDC if both okay and the ASD tested good-there's a problem with the computer ASD relay ground control circuit
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:00 AM (Merged)
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98_DODGE_RAM_SPORT
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I jumped 87 to 30 and got 12 volts to the coil however still no spark. The fuel pump also did not prime. I bypassed the fuel pump relay for constant fuel however still nothing. There is plenty of pressure at the rail.

Ok, well the PCM I ordered arrived a few minutes ago and now the truck is running. As stated above, all fuses and relays were tested good. What is the ASD relay ground control circuit? Does that mean the PCM is bad?

Well everything seemed ok until I scanned the comp for new codes. It have me codes p02001-p0208. I can see that this would be a injector circuit issue however what would you think is the cause? I noticed a rough idle (had this issue on and off before new pcm as well) so I scanned it and those were the results. I have heard maybe a TPS sensor. Does that seem right? Thanks
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:00 AM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Hey 98_Dodge_Ram_Sport,

It sounds like you have an injector that is shorted or the wiring is shorted or open. Here is a couple of guides and a wiring diagram so you can do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter


Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:00 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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I have 98 dodge ram 5.2 that wont start. The engine coolant temperature broke so the
wires touched the wire on the alternator. I think something shorted now the truck wont
start , it cranks but no spark and we have fuel . I have changed cam,crank,capsid coil and still no spank.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:00 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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I can't tell what damage the short might have done? As far as spark, check for primary voltage at the coil, engine cranking, Should be a green wire with orange tracer.

Can you tell if the computer is awake? With key on, check for ref voltage at any sensor that uses a ref voltage. If no ref voltage then have to check voltage and ground circuits to computer. If that is ok, have to suspect the computer.

Can you communicate with computer? Get an obd2 code reader, see if anything?

Hopefully it's just a blown fuse, somewhere?
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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I have p0113,p0118,p0123,p0463,p1492 are the codes I have. So I know the pcm is awake
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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Do you know how old the codes are? If you erase the codes, do the codes come back? Sometimes multiple codes can mean computer or computer wiring issues?

Did you check primary voltage at the coil?

I will check the codes and get back to you.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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The codes came on when the short happened. The check engine light was not on before. I did a coil test yesterday the voltmeter was low.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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And if I delete the codes. They come right back
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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I checked the codes, they are for various sensors, voltage too high. As an example, check the ref voltage to the throttle position sensor, key on. The wire color is violet with white tracer, ref voltage around 5 volts.

If you want to trace primary voltage to the coil and go at it that way, we can do that. I already gave you the wiring color, dark green with orange tracer. That voltage comes from asd relay, That doesn't mean the relay is faulty, there fuses involved and a computer ground circuit.

I'm not saying that the computer is faulty, I'm just trying to be thorough. I can't see anything from here?
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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Does the battery have a full charge? Sometimes when hunting problems, it's not uncommon to run the battery down.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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The throttle sensor has around 5 volts
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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Battery is charged
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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Exactly how much voltage is going to your coil?

You can place digital multimeter leads across battery posts, have helper crank, what is reading? Usually it shouldn't go much below 10 volts. The actual reading on the positive side of the coil should be close to the same.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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I did it yesterday and it didn't even get pass 1 volt
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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One volt isn't enough, have to backtrack circuit. Check voltage to and from asd relay. Check fuse and voltage to fuse circuit, fuse 6--30 amp, fuse 9--10 amp. One fuse circuit is hot all the time, the other goes hot with the key on.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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I'm not around the truck right now but I will do another coil test tomorrow and see what the volts are. Thanks for your help I'll get back to you ASAP. Do you think I should have the pcm tested?
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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At the moment, I'd try to follow the voltage. Let us know when you get a chance.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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So I did the coil test again today and the green/orange wire well cranking had about 10.03 for about 2seconds then it dropped to about 0.40. Did the black wire also and it had about 12 volts.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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So I checked all the pins at the powertrain control module connectors. A2 has power but no ground.a31 no power but has ground. A4 no power but has ground.a32 no power but has ground.a22 has power but no ground.c11 no power but has ground.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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Our wiring diagrams show c1 and c2 connectors, but, using c instead of a, everything you posted about those terminals appear to be correct.

When you first turn the key on, no crank, the computer will ground the asd relay for a couple seconds, then no ground without cam and crank sensor signal.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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I have power to crank and cam.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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THADRIAN86
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Recently rebuilt the engine and the transmission and re installed. Put in a cam headers and intake. Truck ran about 30 miles then abruptly shut off. Engine cranks but no spark or fuel. Replaced the PCM and it ran again this time for about 3 miles came back home and shut it off only to not have it start again. Jumped out the fuel relay and it sends fuel. Jumped out the asd relay as well and you can hear something clicking i'm assuming the distributor? But still no spark. When the ignition is turned on 12v comes up on the coil side of the asd and fuel relay however when you put a voltmeter on the relay the 12v dissipates to nothing when put under load for the relay coil. When I remove the relay it goes back to 12v but it doesn't have enough current to activate the relay. Is something shorting out the PCM or is there something else I should be looking at?
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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GONZO1234
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Also if the terminal appear to ok then what next
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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CARADIODOC
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To get you started, it sounds like you're seeing proper operation but you aren't aware of it. When you turn the ignition switch to "run", the Engine Computer turns the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay on for one second, then it goes back off. That is done to insure fuel pressure is up for starting, in case it bled down over days or weeks. That relay gets turned on again during engine rotation, (cranking or running), and the computer knows that by the signal pulses it receives from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor.

On models that use a separate fuel pump relay, that relay is turned on either by the ASD relay directly, or the coils for the two relays are in parallel so both are turned on by the computer, at the same time.

The air gap for the crankshaft position sensor is critical, and since the transmission was separated from the engine, if that sensor wasn't removed first, there's a good chance it got damaged or pushed up a little. That sensor on older engines was adjusted by a thick paper spacer glued to the end to set the air gap. Your design is set automatically by the mounting bracket so it can't be misadjusted, but it can be damaged.

You've already observed you're missing spark and fuel pump. Most people get hung up on the first one of those they find missing, then waste all their time in the wrong circuit. You can try reading the diagnostic fault codes first, but be aware fault codes for these two sensors often don't set just from cranking the engine. They usually need more time to be detected, as in when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. For that reason, be sure to not disconnect the battery or let it run dead until the codes have been read, because doing so will erase them, then that valuable information will be lost.

To read the codes yourself, cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds, without cranking the engine, leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. You can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you.

If there are no fault codes related to these sensors, start by checking if the ASD relay is turning on. The easiest way to do that is to use a test light and back-probe the dark green / orange wire at any injector, the ignition coil or coil pack, or either smaller terminal on the back of the alternator. In the rare event I told you the wrong wire color, it is the wire that is the same color at all of those places. A test light works best because it is easy to see from inside the truck, and digital voltmeters usually don't respond fast enough.

You should see the test light turn on for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. If you do, that proves the relay and its circuit are okay, and the computer has control of it. It's very rare to find this part doesn't work. What's important is if the 12 volts comes back when you start cranking the engine. If it does not, it is because the signal is missing from one of the two sensors.

Both of these sensors commonly fail on all car brands by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for about an hour. This type of failure doesn't really sound like what you have. Typically they work okay as long as you keep on driving and natural air flow keeps them cool. They usually fail when a hot engine is stopped, such as when stopping for gas, then during "hot soak", engine heat migrates up to the sensors causing one to fail.

I had one fail exactly like you described, but it was my fault. To help out a coworker at the dealership, I was replacing transmissions periodically, and I got too arrogant to use the paper spacer to set the air gap on the crankshaft position sensors. It was on my 13th transmission job, the engine quit running two weeks later, and was repaired with a new crank sensor. I'm pretty sure it was just because I hadn't set the air gap properly. That one stopped suddenly, like you described, after running just fine for miles.

Let me know what you find up to this point.
Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)
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JDL
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With engine cranking, the ground for the asd relay should be constant. The ground is controlled by the computer.

When you said the coil had decent voltage for a couple seconds and then went very low, makes me think, the computer stopped grounding the asd relay for some reason.

Dec 13, 2020 at 10:01 AM (Merged)