No brake pedal

Yes. Remove the caps, have a helper push the brake pedal rapidly, fairly hard, and watch for brake fluid spurting up through the openings. Normally when you press the pedal, a little fluid rushes up into the reservoir before the lip seals move far enough to block those ports, then, once the fluid is trapped, it gets pushed down to the wheels. When you push the pedal real fast, you'll see that fluid going into the reservoir as those little spurts of fluid. When you don't see those spurts, it's either because the design of the reservoir doesn't allow that to be seen, or the lip seals are torn and are not moving any brake fluid.

By about the first year, crud and corrosion build up inside the bores of the master cylinder where the pistons don't normally travel. From sitting for so long, it's not uncommon for a little brake fluid to seep out of the rear wheel cylinders. The first few pumps of the brake pedal will be low until pressure is built up in the rear system. That wouldn't cause a problem if you knew to only push the pedal no more than half way to the floor, but we usually run it all the way, and that runs the lip seals over that crud and can rip them.

Here's links to some articles related to this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

Here's a trick I've used many times to avoid having to bleed at the wheels. When you replace the master cylinder with two steel lines, loosen the line nuts a little, remove the mounting bolts to the power booster, pull the master cylinder forward, then use it as a handle to bend the steel lines up a little. That will keep the fluid from running out of the lines.

Remove the two lines all the way, then remove the master cylinder. Brake fluid eats paint, so be careful to not allow any to drip onto the car.

Screw the two lines into the new master cylinder that has been bench-bled, then use it to bend those lines back down to their normal shape. Bolt it to the booster, then snug one of the line nuts. Have a helper slowly push the brake pedal half way to the floor. It should take about 15 seconds to do that. You'll see bubbles coming out by that nut. Snug the nut, then holler to the helper to quickly release the pedal.

Do that a second time, and perhaps a third time, until you see only clear fluid with no bubbles coming out, then do that for the other line. By pushing slowly, fluid will get pushed down the lines, and air will float back up. By releasing the pedal quickly, the fluid rushing back will wash the air back up into the reservoir with it. This can even work when working on the car by yourself, just keep both line nuts tight.