Will not Start

Tiny
BARSTOOLS05
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 NISSAN XTERRA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 73,000 MILES
Eventhough the battery is fully charged and the starter sounds as if its working the car won, t fire up. There is gas in the vehicle, and I have never had any problems before. The vehicle is under warranty but a tow is not covered any ideas as to what this could be or how I could get it started so that I can avoid paying for a fifty mile tow.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks,
Robert
Saturday, June 14th, 2008 AT 12:10 AM

21 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi barstools05,

When a car cannot start, there are a 1001 possibilities.

It is however divided into 3 major parts,
ignition, engine managemant and fuel system.

We need to know which system is not functioning before we can help. Otherwise we would be looking for a needle in a haystack.

Check out this guide, it will help figure out which direction to

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
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Saturday, June 14th, 2008 AT 1:52 PM
Tiny
SANDGHOUL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 NISSAN XTERRA
Engine Performance problem
2001 Nissan Xterra 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

2001 Nissan Xterra, when I put my key into the ignition and turn it to accessory all the lights come on fine but when I go to start the engine I hear a clicking noise and my car dies. I have replaced the battery and the alternator, can you please tell me what is wrong, I'm thinking that it is the starter but I'm not sure.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SANDGHOUL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I put my key in and the dash lights up then when I turn the key it kills my engine. The Engine won't crank or turn over at all, all I hear is a single click and then my car dies
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
See below start circuit EWD


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_alty1_6.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_alty2_1.jpg

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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABBEYGAD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 NISSAN XTERRA
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
I bought this SUV from copart.com and was told had Mechanical Problem. So we tried to fix it changed some part like the fuel pump. But it keep rolling but not starting.
Can you help please!


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/268964_0593410B_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/268964_0593410F_1.jpg

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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
To determine if its fuel or spark do below

Get a carb cleaner and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMUEL ATERE-ROBERTS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 NISSAN XTERRA
  • 3.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,000 MILES
I will give a brief chronology of my problems over the last six weeks and hopefully I can get a recommendation on what to do next.

1. On August first, car will not start in "park", all lights on but no cranking. AAA came checked out battery fine.

2. Later car started on "park" and I dropped up car at PEP BOYS
3. PEP BOYS checked it out and decided I needed a new starter. Starter replaced.
4. Drove car a couple of days and same problems with starting on "park". Towed car to PEP BOYS but problem could not be duplicated.
5. Drove car a couple of days and same problems with starting on "park". Towed car to another repair shop close by but problem could not be duplicated.
6. Kept having the same intermittent start problem as four and five above and car was parked in a parking garage and when tow truck came to tow, height did not allow access. Tow driver went in and moved gear to neutral and it started.
7. Concluded that parking neutral (PN) Switch was the problem. I took car back to PEP BOYS and explained tow truck driver finding and asked them to replace the PN Switch. After re-placement car could not move in gear and they concluded I have a transmission problem. Car towed to Mr. Transmission and they concluded I now have a bad transmission and it has to be rebuilt or replaced. Was the transmission failure while at PEP BOY a coincidence or did they mess up? I am going to small claims court to address that and as a minimum get refund for wrongful replacement of my starter.
8. To cut a long story short, I replaced the transmission with a used one, but I am still having intermittent starting problems in "park" sometimes but it starts on "park" and it always starts on neutral when it does not start on "park". I was just going to ask a mechanic to just replace the PN Switch hoping it will solve the problem. Then I saw this posting in another Nissan forum indicating that this may be another problem causing my starting problem.

[COLOR="Red"] Also, check the cable that runs from your shifter to the ignition itself. Its what will unlock the ignition switch. It also does something which let's the ignition know the vehicle is not in gear which will allow it to start. [COLOR]

So should I replace the PN Switch or this cable referenced above as the first option to solve my intermittent starting problem?

Thanks
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Why some clown will tell you the transmission is bad because it will not start in park is beyond me. First try this what I am sending in pics for adjustment before you put a new cable in. Check out the pictures below. You will need a 4 mm pin or drill bit to perform this. Then it may be the cable is stretched.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMUEL ATERE-ROBERTS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks HMAC300.

First I must clarify that PEP BOYS claimed that after they replaced the PN switch and tried to drive the car that is when they figured out that my transmission had failed (coincidence timing?). I towed car to a different mechanic that confirmed I had a failed transmission. So I am suspicious that PEP BOYS may have messed up my transmission trying to replace the PN Switch.

I cannot do the repairs you described above. If the time to adjust the cable is not much different than the time to replace it, should I not just replace it? How much will labor for this replacement cost. What is the exact name of the cable so that I can get a quote?Thanks again
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It is called a shift cable and prices should be checked locally as cables and labor vary all over. Replacing it is up to you but you have put quite a bit of money into it already for an intermittent problem, but with age and miles probably best bet is to replace it.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LYONSL
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2002 NISSAN XTERRA
  • 3.3L
  • V6
  • TURBO
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
Car will not run! Got good fire, tried quick start while had someone turn engine over car started. I know its fuel problem. Check fuel pump pressure should be 40 psi /got 85psi do I have bad fuel pressure regulator if so where is it located?
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

Ok, Does sound like could be the FPR since so hi, but would check vacuum line first.

Fuel Pressure without Vacuum should be about 43psi at Idle.

Fuel Pressure with Vacuum should be about 34psi at Idle.

Attached is the location of the FPR
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMUEL ATERE-ROBERTS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
HMAC300
Thanks again for your response. Based on your feed back and additional research I did online on other repair forums, the following two parts have been identified as the possible culprits for my starting problem.

1. Shift cable you identified above
2. Park-Neutral-Position (PNP) Switch

For both of the two items above I have heard that they can either be "adjusted" or "replaced". Can you tell which of these will be the most likely to replace as my Truck has 210,000 mile? If I take it to the Dealership can they do a diagnostic to figure which of the above is the problem?

Also I did something today when it did not start on PARK after parking the car at work for 9 hours. Instead of trying to start on NEUTRAL as I normally do, I just move the Shifter from PARK to NEUTRAL and back to PARK. It started then at PARK which tells me something may have a loose connection in the shift cable to transmission or PNP switch to transmission. Either way I will take to the dealer although my normal mechanic can replace either of these for cheaper.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LYONSL
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Can you explain why the pressure in the fuel pump is so high? I have by pass the FRP and taken the pressure direct from the pump?
With normal pressure at 34 and this vehicle at 85 there got to be a reason
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
With the mileage and age of truck i'd do both that way it's taken care of although it sounds more like acable to me. Any garage or trans shop can do this not necessarily a dealer unless they are cheaper
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Was the Initial pressure take at the Fuel Rail?

Ok, in most cases the Fuel Pump Pressure will be 60 - 80 psi, hence the use of the FPR. And the same fuel pump can be used in multiple vehicles and use different pressures. In your vehicle the best pressure for economy is 34psi another vehicle maybe 53psi for best economy. So, if you test initially at fuel rail and got 65psi then the FPR is not doing it's job either do to failure of regulator of do to vacuum problem.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LYONSL
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks; this puts everything in perceptive.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RONHC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 NISSAN XTERRA
  • 143,000 MILES
My Nissan Xterra 2000 3.3 v6 won't start. It sounds like it wants to turn but no go. This issue first started with the truck struggling and losing power in acceleration. I already changed the sparks, cables, fuel filter and complete distributor. After changing the distributor the truck did start after a timing issue. Took the truck for a spin and it died on me after 10mils or so. Changed the crankshaft position sensor and still the truck doesn't wanna turn. My next option is the ECU or the gas fuel sending unit but before I go into that I'd like some professional info if I am heading the right direction. Meaning electrical problems and where to start. Any info would be very appreciated. Thanks.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If you keep changing things hoping that it would work, you are going to be disappointed and costly, and is not the correct way to be doing things.

You need to find out what is missing causing the non starting before moving on to the next step.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check the link for more information.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:36 PM (Merged)

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