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1997 Mercury Sable car will not start

Tiny
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  • 1997 MERCURY SABLE
Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Mercury Sable 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive 112, 00 miles

car wld not start/clickd and then nothing. Tried jump starting-wld not start;finally started so I took to repair shop-battery, alternator and starter all checkd out good. They cld not find problem. What do you suggest now?
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 5:34 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
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Does the car start now?

How long had it been setting before it hadn't started? (Possible parasitic draw-did they check for that?)
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
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The engine is not cranking correct? That is you turn the key and it shoudn't make any noise except maybe clicking. It does not crank. Meaning the engine makes sounds like it wants to start.
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
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Your car should be a 6 cylinder, but that may not matter. At some point check the 8th digit of your VIN. While you are out there take a hammer and wrap on the housing of the starter while someone holds the key in the crank position.

IT is not starting now right?
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
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This is the first time I've had this kind of trouble out of the car. I've had the maintenance/service done on the car for the past 4 years. No major issues w/the car until just this week.
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
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No problem, all is fine. Let's amke the car work, what are the results of my post above?
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 7:08 PM
Tiny
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Okay. My neighbor tried banging on the starter, but I was not trying to start while he did this, and it would not start. I am not where my car is now. So any further advice that you offer, I will try later on when we go back and try to start the car! I appreciate all your help so far, please continue communicating! :D
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
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If this isn't starting and rapping on the starter didn't work, this is the time that a shop CAN diagnose it because the problem is happening. In the meantime, you can get to the starter and make sure the connector at the starter looks good, wiggle it back and forth and verify it looks clean, no corroded.

In particular the spade to post connection as they go bad.

IF you are capable, you can check for power getting to the starter, if not, tow it to the shop for them to check it.

If you choose the latter, wait until the shop is open that your going to have it towed to and try it again before it goes. Hopefully it will still not be starting at that point.
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I'll check that; and if it is corroded, does the connector need to be replaced or just cleaned and how do I clean it?

Spade to post connection? What is this? :)
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
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Power getting to the starter. How do I check this?
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
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You need to look at it for signs of green corrosion. Wiggle it around and see if it seems weak at the point where it attaches to the connector itself. IF it is bad it needs to be replaced. The reman starter will probably come with it, I know NAPA's premium line does. The connector itself is available at the dealer.
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
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If the connector is bad, does this mean that the starter probably needs to be replaced? When the repair shop checkd my starter, they said the "amps were good". They did not remove the starter. Should I have it removed and checked? :)
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_sab_1.jpg



Connect your voltmeter positive lead to positive battery terminial. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to "M" terminal on the starter solenoid. Crank engine and observe voltmeter (2 people of course).
IF voltmeter reading is less than .5 volt, then it is getting power and you need the starter.
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
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Thanks so much for all your helpful advise this evening. I appreciate your time!
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Saturday, March 29th, 2008 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
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Could the relay switch be bad?
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Sunday, March 30th, 2008 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
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IF you have a 3.0 VIN U or Flex Fuel, no it doesn't have one, IF you have a 3.0 DOHC or 3.4 motor then yes it could. That was part of the reason for needing the VIN. I was basing things on the first option.
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Sunday, March 30th, 2008 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
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Here is what the receipt says for the repair that I just had done--1997 mercury sable 3.0 L 183 CID V6 OHV(PUSHROD :)

VIN:1MELM50U1VA620745
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Sunday, March 30th, 2008 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
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That U indicates the engine I choose. It's the most common I've seen.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_saba_1.jpg



heres the diagram of the system. Another component that can be bad is the PRNDL switch. Somethimes trying to start it in nuetral can flush it out.
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Sunday, March 30th, 2008 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
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Okay, but the diagram is greek to me.

I will try to start in neutral, to see if that works!

In the meantime, if/when it does start and we find that the starter is in fact bad, wld you suggest replacing the relay switch and the solenoid switch, too?
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Sunday, March 30th, 2008 AT 6:53 PM
Tiny
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There is no relay on that one.

IF the starter is getting power, then it needs the starter, the solenoid comes with it. The only switch is the ignition switch.

The goal is to nail this thing down while the porblem is happening, if it starts, you are right back to not being able to test anymore.

I wouldn't replace anything other than what needs to be with the exception of the wire at the starter should the starter be bad.
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Sunday, March 30th, 2008 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
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Would you recommend a rebuilt starter or new one? And connecting wires---are they a part of the starter/solenoid package or is this a separate item?

Back to the start in neutral question---is there a tool to check the prndl switch? :)
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Sunday, March 30th, 2008 AT 7:55 PM

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