1993 Mercury Capri Intermitent Loss of electrical power to

I have a '93 capri and it sounds like I might have a similar problem as you but maybe in an earlier stage. While driving my car everything will be running fine and then my car will sputter/jerk. The rpms will drop dramatically for less that a sec and then it will begin to run fine again. It seems like there is a momentary loss of fuel to the engine. Also if I let it sit for a couple of days it will not start. I have also checked things such as ignition control module, spark plugs, wires etc. I had firestone do a diagnostic but they found nothing wrong when clearly that is not the case.

I was just wondering if these things sounded familiar to you? Working on this problem alone is not the most fun thing to do.

Wood.263,

I believe you do in fact have the same problem I have had with my 93 Capri. I think I may have a solution. Beyond the simplistic nature of calling one of those "$100-$500 for your car. We pick up" guys.
(actually had one at my home today picking up an 88GMC Truck and he offered me $1000.00 cash for the Capri?) Anyway, Your problem sounds like what I had with mine.I say had because I have 'potentialy' fixed mine, at least I think I have. The problem may all start with the air box electrical controls. ( The box with the external coil mounted on it)In order for the computer to be able to send a signal to the injectors for activation, this air box must be functioning properly. There is an aluminum 'flapper' just inside the box at the air intake ducting side. The flapper only operates when the engine is turned over due to vacum/suction from the engine. If the flapper does not operate freely, or the electrical contacts within the box are not properly making contact due to normal wear-n-tear, the signal for the computer to send an electrical charge to the injectors may be intermitent at best. At this point with this car, I would be considered a 'resident expert' with how they built the dang thing, and with how all its idiosincratic (sp) issues are suppossed to all work in sequence together. I am no longer walking and back to getting my 40 mpg. Take the air box off, try and manually operate the flapper to verify function, remove/pry the black plastic cover top off that houses the electrical components. Should be a funky looking circuit board and a spring loaded contraption inside. Clean all contact points, and the entire component with WD-40 and then with a quick spray with break clean. Blow dry it with a small burst of air. Make sure the spring loaded thing is functioning by manually moving it back and forth. Leave the plastic cover off and reinstall the air box on the vehicle. Hook up coil and the electrical connector that plugs into the box. Attempt to start the vehicle and if it starts, go to the box and 'tinker' with that spring loaded contraption to see how the thing shuts down the engine if its not properly functioning. Also-check your spark plug wires! They are prone to loosing spark to the #2 cylinder. This engine, due to the 'hemi' style head allows water to get down into the spark plug hole, and over time degrades the plug wires. Change them out even if you think they're bad. Cheap ones at Auto Value otr NAPA. Leave the plastic cover off for a while if things seem ok and if it dies on you, manually operate that spring loaded thing and try and restart again. Good Luck and happy trails.

Turtleisland,

Thank you for your reply. I have just now found time to look at my car in detail in regards to this problem. I have been able to find what you are talking about but have encountered one small issue that maybe you could help me with.

I have been able to take the 'air flow meter' (the silver metal housing that contains the springy thing and the circuits I think you were talking about) off and look at it but I cannot take a look inside to see the condition of the electrical components. The spring lever that is run by the vacuum seems to be working fine. I do not know how to get the black box that is on top off so I can look at the electrical components. There seems to be some kind of translucent sealant or caulk of some kind and I am a little nervous to just start tearing all of that off.

Do you have any suggestions? Does it sound like I am talking about the same thing? How is your car? Still working ok?

Thanks for your help and I hope all is going well.

-wood.653-

Look at the crash shutoff switch. It's in the trunk, if it trips it will shutoff power to the injectors, that's what it's designed to do to prevent an engine fire in a crash. I don't kniow if they go bad (mine hasn't) but.