Axle bearing and seal replacement instructions please?

Tiny
CHERYL VASQUEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 5.6L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
My SUV just started making a loud growl-grinding noise in the rear passenger side, it stops after I speed up or come to a stop. I really need to fix as I have a medical issue, I.E, nine failed spinal operations. Cannot really walk anymore. So anyhow please help!
Sunday, January 1st, 2017 AT 6:28 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,690 POSTS
Hi CHERYL,

It does sounds like an axle bearing has gone bad, we have an excellent guide and video that will show you how to fix the problem as save such money in the process.

https://youtu.be/zarxKsspr3s

and

https://youtu.be/ytqXLSjHNm0

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/rear-axle-seal-replacement

This is a common problem, you can get the parts from Amazon.
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Tuesday, January 3rd, 2017 AT 5:50 PM
Tiny
KMILL02011977
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 132,000 MILES
Hello, I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe 4x4. I need to replace the front axle bearings and seals. I have 2 questions. 1. Can this be done without removing the differential housing? And 2. Are there any special tools needed for the removal or installation of these parts? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin from upstate NY.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
Yes you will need slide hammer, seal installer etc.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/108325_bearing_1.jpg



My advice is that if you want to do the repair yourself is to use car repair manual in this thread or get a Haynes manual, read procedure and see if you want to tackle it.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RETIREMC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I am working on my differential DYI project, but I am not sure what type of differential is the one on my vehicle. I need this information in order to get the right tools for the job, e.G. Torque wrench, etc. Thanks in advance.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,874 POSTS
Torque wrenches aren't specific to which axle you have. The best approach is to get a copy of the manufacturer's service manual. They will show pictures of the covers to identify which axle you have. On the last few pages of each section they will list the special tools with their part numbers and line drawings to show what they look like. You won't need all of those tools. Some are included in the kits all dealers are forced to buy, but we can often do the job without them. You can make some tools too.

I used to work for a very nice family-owned Chrysler dealership. We were allowed to borrow special tools to good customers. In this case, some axle housings need a spreader to stretch it so the center section can be lifted out. You may need shims and gauges to adjust the tooth contact pattern. If you're replacing the collapsible spacer on the shaft of the pinion gear, good luck! You'll need a long tool that bolts to the u-joint strap holes to hold the pinion gear from spinning, then you'll need a huge wrench to tighten that nut. Doing that is almost impossible unless the vehicle is on a hoist or the axle housing is out of the vehicle.

You'll need a really large torque wrench for that pinion nut. A cheap torque wrench is okay for this type of job. There's nothing wrong with tools from Harbor Freight Tools, Sears, and places like that. I'm not sure I would trust them for critical adjustments like for engine cylinder heads, but for an axle, if you're off by 5%, your world will not come apart. A cheap torque wrench will still give pretty good consistency from one bolt to the next. Where they fall down on the job is, for example, they might be right on the money at 100 foot-pounds, but when you dial up 150 foot-pounds, you might get it to click at 145 or 155 foot-pounds. In other words, they might only be accurate at one or two settings. The expensive torque wrenches that professionals buy from the guys who visit shops with their tool trucks each week will be accurate at any setting, but you have to need this tool a lot to justify that higher cost.

Don't even think about buying a beam-type torque wrench with the scale and pointer. You won't find one big enough, and consistency is compromised by how well your vibrating eyes can read it while your arm is shaking from tugging on it so hard. Only consider a click-type torque wrench. Always dial them down to "0" when they're not being used to prevent weakening the spring.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)

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