Key fob will not connect to car

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The first thing I want you to try is reprogramming. Here are the directions for doing it.

Transmitter Programming

Storing transmitter codes
The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored into the key-less receiver unit memory (If a fourth code is stored, the code which was input first will be erased)

NOTE: It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors, the hood and the tailgate are closed

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II)
2. Within 1 to 4 sec, press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the key-less receiver in the power window master switch
3. Within 1 to 4 sec, turn the ignition switch OFF
4. Within 1 to 4 sec, turn the ignition switch ON (II)
5. Within 1 to 4 sec, press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the key-less receiver in the power window master switch
6. Within 1 to 4 sec, turn the ignition switch OFF
7. Within 1 to 4 sec, turn the ignition switch ON (II)
8. Within 1 to 4 sec, press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the key-less receiver in the power window master switch
9. Within 1 to 4 sec, turn the ignition switch OFF
10. Within 4 sec, turn the ignition switch ON (II)
11. Within 1 to 4 sec, press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the key-less receiver in the power window master switch
12. Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators within 1 to 4 sec, then push the transmitter lock or unlock button again, or the code will not be stored
13. Within 10 sec, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store in the key-less receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock buttons
Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored

14. Turn the ignition switch OFF and remove the key
15. Confirm proper operation with the transmitters.

IF that doesn't help and you know the battery is good in the fob, we need to check the brains of the system. The key-less transmitter depends on a multiplex integrated control module to work. With that being said, testing it is somewhat time consuming. Here are the directions. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

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Control Unit Input Test

1. Before testing the keyless entry/security control functions, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system.

Multiplex Integrated Control Unit
2. Remove the left kick panel.

See Picture 1

3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors.

NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals.

4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.

See Picture 2

5. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connectors.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.

See Picture 3

See Picture 4

6. Reconnect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 7.

Door Multiplex Control Unit
7. Remove the driver's power window switch panel.

See Picture 5

8. Disconnect the 23P connector from the power window master switch.
9. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 10.

See Picture 6

10. Reconnect the connector to the door multiplex control unit, and make these input tests at the connectors.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 11.

11. If all the input tests prove OK, and no DTCs were found during MICS troubleshooting (B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A), go to the B-CAN system input and output index. If multiple failures are found on more than one control unit, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box (includes the MICU). If input failures are related to a particular control unit, replace that control unit.

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I realize this is extensive. Let me know if it helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe