Before we went looking for the hard stuff, was the battery recently disconnected or run drained? If it was, you need to do the relearn procedure for "minimum throttle". You may never reach the requirements with stop-and-go driving at slower speeds. Drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals. If that doesn't help, do that again while holding the brake pedal up with your foot. Sometimes a slightly misadjusted brake light switch aborts the relearn.
If that doesn't help, we're going to need a scanner to see what the Engine Computer is doing and responding to. Specifically, we need to see what "idle step" it is placing the idle speed motor too. That motor is used by GM and Chrysler and has been extremely reliable. What used to cause more trouble was the air passage it controlled would become plugged with carbon. That was more common on the 3.0L engines, but due to better fuel additives, we haven't seen that for a long time. These articles describe somewhat how this system works. Your idle speed motor is of a different design, but much of the information is still of value:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-idle-air-control-valve-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle
The last article refers to stalling, but that's because of idle speed that's too low. This can also show up as a crank / no-start condition unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4", and you won't get the nice "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm at start-up.
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Friday, February 11th, 2022 AT 3:10 PM
