Identify item on engine block 390 1963 T Bird

NEILWILLIS

MEMBER
1963 FORD THUNDERBIRD
80,000 MILES

I have a 1963 T Bird 390 engine, Ive posted a question elsewhere but while fiddling with the car I noticed something that I need Identifying.
at the back of the block is a tube coming out of the carburettor and then going into what looks like a 2 inch octagonal shaped (bolt) its probably a valve of some sort, what is it for, /? What's it do, and could this be connected with my car that I cant tune ( see other question regarding tuning a 1963 T Bird)
I assume its some sort of vacuum, ? As its difficulot to work on Im reluctant to start removing it if it doesn't do anything, years ago I had a 1960 galaxie that had a road draft tube is this one of those?

Neil Willis London UK

8 Replies

HMAC300

MECHANIC
48,601 POSTS

That is avacuum connection for transmission if required and heater as well. It may also have a connection going to brake booster if you have power brakes. Due to it's age we have nothing on this even in vintage books as they don't go back that far. As far as tuning replace points and condenser first set points at 30 degrees using a dwell meter. Then set timing after car has warmed up. Also remember to lube the points rubbing block as it will wear out quickly if not. Also check vacuum advance for wear at pin and points plate at pivot as they wear there as well.

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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 AT 9:48 AM

NEILWILLIS

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Thanks hmac300 Ill follow your advise and Ill check the dwell as well, Ive read somewhere that the backfire (Popping) in the exhaust is more likely to be too much un burnt fuel, do you agree?
The two adjustments on the FRONT of the carburettor don't seem to do anything, are there any other FUEL adjustment needles/ settings that you know of?
Thanks again If I get nearer to solving the problem I will donate doall you guys share/ etc?
Neil England

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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 AT 10:01 AM

HMAC300

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Take the screws out of carb and spray choke cleaner in them let it sit for about a minute then reinstall screws LIGHTLY seat the screws in carb then unscrew 1 and 1/2 turns hook up vacuum gauge and get highest reading then readjust idle to specs of course do this on a warm engine not cold. The popping in exaust could be a bent pushrod, pull plug wires one at a time until you hear popping stop. Then pull that valve cover off and check pushrods for being bent or a valve problem like not opening. I don't know what carb you have it may be a ford or holley anything. There are adjustments to crbs but those are mostly inside and normally are done when rebuilt or overhauled. I cannot tellyou how donation money is allocated, we are however paid. Good luck

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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 AT 10:12 AM

NEILWILLIS

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Thanks again hmac300, one final question if you've got time, since the fuel adjustment screws don't seem to work is there away ( in addition to what you suggested) to clean them out, blow through them or force ]
( gently) carb cleaner down/into them.
Ive got the car running steady at 600 rpm but still cant make the fuel adjuster screws do anything.
Thanks anyway,
Neil stuck with a 1963 T Bird that looks good but still wont run smooth,
Ive checked all the possible leaks, one thing Im not sure about, there is a vacuum line that goes ( I think) to a one way small circular thing about 1 inch across and appears to be some sort of a one way valve I can blow into the carburettor not the other way then this line goes on to nothing, air can be sucked in, should I block this it slows the engine down a bit when I bought the car the en was blocked off
Thanks

Neil

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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 AT 12:07 PM

HMAC300

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If you can get some packing wire (thin but strong) spray the choke cleaner in there and run the wire through it may not help but try it. If you send a picture I can see more what you are talking about. I've worked on these for 50 yrs so hard to remember that far back.

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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 AT 12:13 PM

HMAC300

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Ya know after pondering this in my small mind for a while. I think it would be best to overhaul this carburetor due to age for one but the alcohol in today's fuel may have screwed something up inside like the float. Make sure to test the float to make sure it doesn't sink. Leave it in a closed container of gas and if it sinks, if brass try to find the leak and patch it or if plastic get another one they get ate out in the inside of it. If you can get the type that has vyton accelerator pump in it so it wil be more compatible with alcohol. But the popping you are talking about shouldn't do that even with rich fuel do like I said and find the problem with it. If you find the valve cover with a lot of sludge, just remove the other one clean it out and run a wire or small brush down the oil return hole.

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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 AT 5:18 PM

NEILWILLIS

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Hmac300
Today Friday Im going to try those things you said, The carburettor does NOT have an external float adjusting screw so Im going to run the engine for a second, take the top of the carb off ( with cloths all around ) and see what the float level is. I take it that I BEND the tab if its too high? How far down the bowl do you think the fuel level should be if it is near the top?
The thin wire you talked about do you mean take the adjustment screws out (2) and poke through there?

Ill report back Saturday morning. Thanks again hmac300
until I can get the car out of the garage I cant do the other things needed for the legal road test.

Neil

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Friday, July 5th, 2013 AT 6:00 AM

HMAC300

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I didn't say to adjust he float I said to take it off and see if it SINKS in a bowl/jar of gasIf you take the top off you'll find all kinds of crap in the carb just rebuild it with akit it will give all specs in the kitalong with new parts.

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Friday, July 5th, 2013 AT 6:48 AM