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1997 Honda Civic Clutch

Tiny
SCOTT1987
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 100,000 MILES
Recently had my clutch replaced as the release bairn was noisy and it the clutch had started to slip. Upon changing all this the same noises are still there and the clutch is still slipping. What could the problem be?
Wednesday, October 1st, 2008 AT 8:29 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi scott1987,

The bearing noise should be from the trans bearing if it disappears when clutch is depressed.

Clutch slipping could be due to improper adjustment of clutch pedal adjustment resulting in master cylinder piston not returning fully. Check the push rod clearance.
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Tuesday, October 14th, 2008 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
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  • 10 POSTS
Thnks for the advice will have it looked at. Do you have an email address so I can contact you upon inspection?

Scott Henderson
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Wednesday, October 22nd, 2008 AT 2:54 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi Scott,

You can just post a reply to this thread and I will be notified.
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Wednesday, October 22nd, 2008 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Can I just ask, Once the push rod has been adjusted the pedal height will increase. Will this stop the clutch slipping
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Thursday, October 30th, 2008 AT 6:43 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi Scott,

You must not adjust the push rod to push against the master cylinder to make the pedal higher. That would increase the slipping. You must adjust it to make the pedal lower with the push rod starting to move the piston about 1/4 inch after the pedal is depressed.

Anything you need to know you can just ask and I will try to answer as best as I can.
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Thursday, October 30th, 2008 AT 8:23 AM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Hi KHLow2008,
Im not to sure what you mean, you are saying I must adjust the pushrod to make my pedal distance from the floor smaller. Or should I just forget about my pedal distance and adjust the pushrod to make sure my clutch doesnt slip.
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Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 3:26 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi Scott,

The height of the pedal is not that important. Ensure push rod is able to move freely with no restrictions when pedal is not depressed. That is the free play I meant. If the push rod is pushing against the master cylinder, it will self apply which is bad for the clutch.
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Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 8:39 AM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
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  • 10 POSTS
Hi, I see what you mean now. I will try that and keep you posted. Thanks
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Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 10:37 AM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
KHLow2008, how are you?
Ive jus had a look at underneath the clutch pedal. Im still a little confussed as to what I have to do. After I remove the split pin, the push rod should disconnect from the pedal. This is where I get lost. Do I have to detach the master cylinder reservoir? Do I have to remove the actaul master cylinder itself or can I solve this problem without all this fuss? Would it be possible for you to reply with a step by step to ensure the push rod can move freely when the pedal is not depressed. I ust apoligise this is dragging on.
PS Where in the world are you. Scott (glasgow, scotland)
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Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 11:19 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi scott1987,

There is no need to remove the pin. Just unlock the jam nut and adjust the pushrod to have a slight frre movement.
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Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 3:24 PM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Hi KHLow,
I have been down stairs all day trying to get the clutch to stop slipping. I cant quite figure it out though. How much of the push rod should be visable from the back of the clutch pedal until it dissapears in to the footwell. If I adjust it so the pedal height is smaller there is no bite. How can I adjust the biting point?
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi scott1987,

There is no fixed length as it depends on the pedal height.

Follow this carefully.
1. Release the jam nut.
2. Turn the push rod clockwise by hand till resistance is felt, as if the push rod is fully extended. Minimal force should be used to prevent the push rod from being exerted against the master cylinder piston.
3. Reverse the rotation of the push rod by 1/2 turn to get the minimal pedal clearance.
4. Tighten the lock nut, ensure the push rod does not turn to prevent the adjustment from being affected.
5. Test drive again.
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 12:33 PM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
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Thank you, Will try these steps tomorrow and get back to you
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 12:43 PM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Hi KHLOW2008,
After few days of tweaking I seem to have the perfect set up for my clutch. I followed your steps and it was only a couple of half turns for it to feel right again. Even the biting point feels so much better. Hopefully it will stay this way and I will keep you notified. Thank you very much for all your advice, you certainly know your stuff. I will certainly be using this site again if need be. Scott
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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 9:10 AM
Tiny
SCOTT1987
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Hi khlow, Bad news im afraid. My clutch still slips after 20-25 minutes use. Im starting to wonder if there is a problem with the master cylinder itself.
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Friday, November 14th, 2008 AT 6:45 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi Scott,

If the pedal is higher than normal after driving, then it could be the master cylinder. However if the pedal height remains the same, even more bad news, the clutch is bad and needs to be replaced.

Good luck
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Friday, November 14th, 2008 AT 3:51 PM

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